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New Accord Owner, Many Questions!

J

Jefferson

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Location
Rochester
Car
Accord 2.4 Ex
Good morning,

I am now the proud owner of an Accord 2.4 Executive with Nav. I bought this car to be used as a commuter and for a bit of fun. The insurance costed me over half the price of the car too.
There are a few niggles I'd like to ask about. The satellite navigation system keeps showing that I am near Tolouse in France and doesn't budge, even though my settings indicate that UK is set. The steering wheel and driver side heated seat switch doesn't seem to have illumination at all and when I pull away on a steep incline, there's a squealing noise coming from the engine, possibly the clutch. Also, only the driver side interior light seems to work.

I like the power of the VTEC engine, but I'm unfortunately not sure if it accelerates faster than my old Ford Mondeo TDCi 140. While accelerating on a sliproad to motorway speeds, even in low gears, it seems to pick up speed just as fast, despite having nearly 40BHP more. Would this be something to do with the torque? The Accord has 162 lbs/ft while the Mondeo has around 223 lbs/ft, which explains how it was able to keep in line with an Octavia vRS 180. Lastly, driving in 6th while doing 70 mph is at well over 2,000rpm, nearly 3,000 rpm. Is this to do with it being petrol? This is the first petrol car I've driven and the old Octavia 1.9TDi I used to have performs the same revs at 70 in 5th as the Accord does in 6th. The Mondeo was at 2,000rpm in 6th doing 70mph.

Sorry for the heavy bombardment of questions. Hopefully the technical faults are easy fixes.

Thanks!
 
You'll find the petrol should be far quicker in most situations, though it does need to be revved in comparison to a diesel.
By 3000rom the power on a diesel will be tailing off, and a petrol will only just be starting to wake up.

The steering wheel buttons on pre-facelift cars do not light up. They should on the facelift cars with the Momo steering wheel.
 
That's a shame the steering wheel doesn't illuminate as I can't see the cruise control buttons. I'll get used to it over time though I suppose. It's a 55 plate so I suppose pre-facelift.
 
Yep. Same as mine is. Having only just changed cars from one that did illuminate, it's bugging me too.
Welcome to the club.
 
Is there a way to get into the centre console to get to the bulb which illuminates the driver side heated seat button? And I still can't set up the satellite navigation to see me in the UK.
 
Pull out the ashtray, then get your hand under the switch panel and pull it up.
 
Welcome.

The power is there for sure, but it's at the top of the rev range. So if you want some fun, get used to climbing up to 5 / 6 / 7 k and knowing when to change before the rev limiter kicks in. After it's warmed up.

The squeal might be the clutch release bearing - a few people with 2.4s get it every now and again
 
If the release bearing's going, I'm ***uming it's best to get a whole new clutch kit. At least it's A SMF and not a DMF… I've had problems with DMFs and the cost is not pretty. Maybe go with a reputable company such as Sachs? But the labour cost may be quite high as well; just getting to it is usually 75% of the total job's time!
 
Sorry to dig this old thread up again… but I've been wondering about a VTEC controller to lower the VTEC engagement as I believe (off the top of my head) that it engages at 6,000rpm, which only gives me around 1,200rpm of VTEC and I find that a bit too high. Would there be any significant mid range gains if I was able to lower the engagement down to around 4/5,000rpm?
I've seen it would be a better option to change the head; the Acura TSX produces around 205bhp whereas the K24A3 in mine only produces just under 190bhp. Possible to produce gains from getting a K24A2 head? I'm ***uming it's not that simple though.
Thanks!
 
Best bet is speak with ukcl9 about an ecu reflash, lowers the vtec point and increases the duration and red line amongst other things
 
UKCL9 is the reflash guy, though I have seen VTEC controllers on some sites, not expensive, as far as I remember around 60EUR without delivery, but I am not sure if it will work on our models.

Regarding Turbo Diesel, it naturally is faster at start due to the turbine and the fact that Turbos reach max power at half the RPMs compared to Petrol ones.
After all getting the Petrol to above 6-7K RPMs is a lot funnier than boring Diesel at 3000-3500, and when VTEC kicks in I am sure your smile cannot be wiped out, sound is even better on Manuals.
 
I used to be able to notice a slight kick and more roaring when VTEC was engaged but now I'm not sure if I can or not. When I bought the car in November, it had a service and the oil level was near the max. Then one day about a month ago, the oil light was periodically turning on and off and so was the check engine light. I bought 1L of 0W-40 and found that the min level still hadn't been reached so I ***umed there was an oil leak. However, I have not seen a single droplet where I park so maybe the engine is slurping it up. I ended up buying 5L of 0W-40 in the end and it took 3.25L until it reached between min/max. I know I should've checking my oil from time to time which I now regret, but I thought they weren't supposed to eat oil at all? Not like the rotaries found in some Mazdas. Is there a diagram to show where the VTEC solenoid is? And how to clean/repair/replace it? Maybe it's that or it could be any number of other faults which may have occurred.
Will the reflash increase torque/bhp significantly since the VTEC engages lower down the Rev range? Silly question since it's an NA engine, I know, but I'll need more education on them.
Thanks!
 
Vtec is a bit pants on the 2.4 compared to older vti and type r models. I'm not sure how but I know it works differently I'm sure someone will be along to explain.
Other than a slight change in engine note you can't really feel it on a stock car anyway(other than the fact your probably moving quite quickly at this point!)
 
The technology in our models is not VTEC, but i-VTEC whici is intelligent VTEC, which is different than the pure VTEC in older Hondas. It is said by Honda that the i-VTEC is better than the clean VTEC, in terms of fuel efficiency, it is hard to break it, different angle of the VTC. Due to the previous facts the sound of VTEC in older Hondas is much brutal than todays i-VTEC.

Someone who has the wokshop manual can upload the diagram with the location of the i-VTEC. I can do it later when I get hands on my pc.

I have heard that when you hold high RPMs for a longer period engine eats up oil, but not that much. If it is eating that much oil then it must be also something additional, wrong oil for example. If the leak is very small, it will be hard to spot because underhood temperature gets very high and it will evaporate.
 
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