edgeoftime
Members
Grasping at straws now, could it be the in line fuel heater not working?
No boost below 2,500rpm, no warning lights or fault codes
- Thread starter mutley
- Start date
Thanks for the ideas guys. IMRC valve has been changed for a new one and checked out OK when the diagnostics were last run.
I thought maybe the throttle position sensor - I cleaned the contacts and had a squirt round with contact cleaner but it hasn't helped. It is an expensive component to swap unless there is evidence pointing to it causing the fault!
I thought maybe the throttle position sensor - I cleaned the contacts and had a squirt round with contact cleaner but it hasn't helped. It is an expensive component to swap unless there is evidence pointing to it causing the fault!
Interesting thought - I will see if I can find it and have a play. Not quite sure how it would produce the symptoms but no harm in looking!
edgeoftime
Members
1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Remove the hand primer cover (A).
AB
4. Remove the hand primer braket (B).
5. Disconnect the fuel heater 2P connector (A) and fuel temperature sensor 2P connector (B).
ABEDC
6. Remove the APP sensor wire harness clip (C).
7. Remove the fuel heater bolts (D).
8. Disconnect the fuel hoses (E).
9. Install the part in the reveres order of removal.
10. Bleed the fuel system.
I am not able to copy the schematics but it is fixed to the firewall I think? There are "electrical 2P connections" one for the heater coil and the other for the sensor, maybe dirty.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Remove the hand primer cover (A).
AB
4. Remove the hand primer braket (B).
5. Disconnect the fuel heater 2P connector (A) and fuel temperature sensor 2P connector (B).
ABEDC
6. Remove the APP sensor wire harness clip (C).
7. Remove the fuel heater bolts (D).
8. Disconnect the fuel hoses (E).
9. Install the part in the reveres order of removal.
10. Bleed the fuel system.
I am not able to copy the schematics but it is fixed to the firewall I think? There are "electrical 2P connections" one for the heater coil and the other for the sensor, maybe dirty.
edgeoftime
Members
Now this all "chinese" to me but it refers to faults occuring without the MIL LIGHTS COMING ON.
Fuel and Emissions Systems Symptom Troubleshooting
When the vehicle has one of these symptoms, check for a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) with the HDS. If there is no DTC, do the diagnostic procedure for the symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the cause.
Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also check for
Engine will not start
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Test the battery.
Test the starter.
Bleed the fuel system. •Low compression
•Intake air leaks
•Locked up engine
•Broken cam chain
•Contaminated fuel
Engine will not start (MIL comes on and stays on, or never comes on at all, no DTCs set) Troubleshoot the MIL circuit.
Engine will not start
(immobilizer indicator stays on or flashes) Troubleshoot the immobilizer system.
Hard starting
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Test the battery.
Bleed the fuel system. •Low compression
•Intake air leaks
•Contaminated fuel
Cold fast idle too low
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Check the idle speed.
Bleed the fuel system.
Cold fast idle too high
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Check the idle speed.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Idle speed fluctuates
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Check the idle speed.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Bleed the fuel system. Intake vacuum leaks
After warming up, idle speed is above specifications with no load
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Idle speed fluctuates
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Bleed the fuel system. Contaminated fuel
Fails emission test
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Inspect the catalytic converter. •Contaminated fuel
•Low compression
•Slipped/ broken timing belt
Low power
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Check the air cleaner element.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Inspect the catalytic converter. •Contaminated fuel
•Low compression
•Camshaft timing
•Engine oil level
Engine stalls
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Bleed the fuel system.
Check the idle speed. •Intake air leaks
•Faulty harness and sensor connections
Fuel and Emissions Systems Symptom Troubleshooting
When the vehicle has one of these symptoms, check for a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) with the HDS. If there is no DTC, do the diagnostic procedure for the symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the cause.
Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also check for
Engine will not start
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Test the battery.
Test the starter.
Bleed the fuel system. •Low compression
•Intake air leaks
•Locked up engine
•Broken cam chain
•Contaminated fuel
Engine will not start (MIL comes on and stays on, or never comes on at all, no DTCs set) Troubleshoot the MIL circuit.
Engine will not start
(immobilizer indicator stays on or flashes) Troubleshoot the immobilizer system.
Hard starting
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Test the battery.
Bleed the fuel system. •Low compression
•Intake air leaks
•Contaminated fuel
Cold fast idle too low
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Check the idle speed.
Bleed the fuel system.
Cold fast idle too high
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Check the idle speed.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Idle speed fluctuates
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Check the idle speed.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Bleed the fuel system. Intake vacuum leaks
After warming up, idle speed is above specifications with no load
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Idle speed fluctuates
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Bleed the fuel system. Contaminated fuel
Fails emission test
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) Inspect the catalytic converter. •Contaminated fuel
•Low compression
•Slipped/ broken timing belt
Low power
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2.
3. Check the air cleaner element.
Inspect/adjust the throttle cable.
Inspect the catalytic converter. •Contaminated fuel
•Low compression
•Camshaft timing
•Engine oil level
Engine stalls
(MIL works OK, no DTCs set) 1.
2. Bleed the fuel system.
Check the idle speed. •Intake air leaks
•Faulty harness and sensor connections
Hi guys - time to wind up this thread with a resolution - it was the EGR valve. Replaced it with a £30 job off ebay and now all is cured!
The reason we didn't get there earlier is because the existing EGR valve passed the HDS test a number of times without issue. It wasn't until an enterprising local mechanic blanked off the EGR valve that the source of the fault became apparent.
Thanks to everyone for their help and comments.
The reason we didn't get there earlier is because the existing EGR valve passed the HDS test a number of times without issue. It wasn't until an enterprising local mechanic blanked off the EGR valve that the source of the fault became apparent.
Thanks to everyone for their help and comments.
Hello.
I have the similar problem with my bmw 535d e60 (2005 [228.000]km) my car has has no boost. I have sent on 3 bmw garage they were not able to fix it, they have tried to change the pressure converter no success, i have changed two thermostats nothing, the car success on DPF regeneration also they took out both of turbos and sent them for diagnostic/repairing, booth of them were OK. THe car works ok after 2300-2400rpm but below it has no BOOST. When trying to test with ISTA D/rheingold it gives me only two errors glow plug cylinders 2,6. Sometimes it gives me the "Charge Air pressure control of small turbocharger, control deviation (4530)", when cleaning errors it does not show for about 5-7 days.
here are some infos of measurement :
I have the similar problem with my bmw 535d e60 (2005 [228.000]km) my car has has no boost. I have sent on 3 bmw garage they were not able to fix it, they have tried to change the pressure converter no success, i have changed two thermostats nothing, the car success on DPF regeneration also they took out both of turbos and sent them for diagnostic/repairing, booth of them were OK. THe car works ok after 2300-2400rpm but below it has no BOOST. When trying to test with ISTA D/rheingold it gives me only two errors glow plug cylinders 2,6. Sometimes it gives me the "Charge Air pressure control of small turbocharger, control deviation (4530)", when cleaning errors it does not show for about 5-7 days.
here are some infos of measurement :
Easy fix, we've had a few 535d in with this problem.
Your small turbo isn't working because the vacuum pipes going to the actuator are split and leaking. Have a close look on the drivers side bulkhead and you will see a bunch of vacuum pipes going in to the actuator module. Replace them all one by one with new pipes, they just push on..
Trust me this is the issue.
Your small turbo isn't working because the vacuum pipes going to the actuator are split and leaking. Have a close look on the drivers side bulkhead and you will see a bunch of vacuum pipes going in to the actuator module. Replace them all one by one with new pipes, they just push on..
Trust me this is the issue.
Yes they probably looked at them visually and didn't think anything was wrong. We've had a few twin turbo M57 engine BMW in now with the same problem and it's always the vacuum pipes. It's a 20 minute fix.
It's the heat from the DPF and engine that over time causes them to become brittle and perish.
It's the heat from the DPF and engine that over time causes them to become brittle and perish.
I will send agian my car to check all the pipes and replace them, just one more question ...
Could be the egr valve? monitoring via Dr Gini while idle actual messurements of these 4 gaugets are:
Boost pressure:94%
Throttle valve: 69.6%
Swirl flaps 98%
Egr valve around 50%
So... when i make full throttle all these values drops to 0-10...
Thanks for your reply
Could be the egr valve? monitoring via Dr Gini while idle actual messurements of these 4 gaugets are:
Boost pressure:94%
Throttle valve: 69.6%
Swirl flaps 98%
Egr valve around 50%
So... when i make full throttle all these values drops to 0-10...
Thanks for your reply
You can't tell anything from those readings, you need to be looking at target vs actual and while the car is under load.
In any case I'm confident your issue is the small turbo isn't working due to vacuum leak on the actuator.
In any case I'm confident your issue is the small turbo isn't working due to vacuum leak on the actuator.