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P0325 code!

Kaput!

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Location
BOLTON UK
Car
04 accord tourer 2.0
Had my first engine light today so i connected my reader which flashed up P0325.
I did a quick google search and all i find is knock sensor fault but mines the petrol k20a6.Can anyone point me in the right direction? I did manage to clear the code and remove the engine light but im sure it will come back until its sorted.
 
Had this on my wife’s FRV with the same engine. I replaced it with a copy part from eBay, it was around £20 from memory. It fits under the intake manifold, not too bad a job but worth removing the intake manifold to do it. Make sure you use a new manifold gasket. Also worth doing your valve clearances while you’re under the bonnet, the car will feel a million times better.


K20A6 engine Intake: 0.21-0.25 mm (0.008-0.010 in.)
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
I normally set them to 0.23 inlet and 0.30 exhaust.
 
Thanks for that ill get the parts ordered tomorrow.Ive actually never done the valve clearances while ive owned the car so ill get those done too.
 
Fahad,can you remember which is the correct sensor? Im finding two and although more expensive i am pretty sure its the larger one in first image?
 

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Just need to rule out the one with the green connector...
 

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I can’t I’m afraid.. get a pic of your original, use your cameraphone and get under the manifold
 
Yes im just waiting for rain to ease then ill dig around beneath manifold and check.Regards fitting theres a video on youtube of some guy replacing it without removing anything lol (k24) looks too fiddly for me that so i will take intake stuff off.Thanks for the help.
 
Definitely take the manifold off, and it’s an opportunity to give it a clean too. Also you’ll need to torque the sensor in and you cant do that with the manifold in situ.
 
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Exactly,great advice! With mine being an auto it will give me a chance to check the condition of the starter motor too...at the very least a clean and grease of all the electrical contacts.
 
Had to replace knock sensors on a Civic and Accord Tourer. 2L Civic was best to reach from underneath the car as it was in the middle of the block under the intake manifold and it was hell to access. the 2.4l Tourer was best to access from the top. I have small hands and managed to squeeze in from the left side of the manifold to remove the connector and used a socket with knuckle joint and extension to remove and replace. Turned our to be easier than the Civic. Lastly, I was caught out by an aftermarket part looking identical and being listed for the car but not being the same. Once opened it couldn't be returned. I found only the Honda one worked on the 2.4l.
 
Well i did the job today but there is still a problem! I did it the "hard" way although it isnt really as the sensor needs to be torqued to 31nm.
I purchased an aftermarket part also but after 1 minite driving the engine light comes on.Now i can clear it as with the old part but illuminates again soon after.
Wiring seemed to be in good order so im ***uming i will need to purchase another sensor now? Other than a genuine honda part im not sure i could risk another copy but the real deal aint cheap.
 
Am i right in thinking that as soon as engine light comes on the ECU has disabled the knock sensor and runs some sort of "safe" setting? Either way im reluctant to drive it now incase i damage something because my engine is pretty low milage and super smooth,although pitch does alter slightly once engine light comes on.
 
I’ll try and dig out the eBay receipt for the one I used a few years ago, was around £20 and still going strong. And yes once the EML is on, your car is running in safe mode with the timing retarded.
 
Thankyou fahad that would be great if you can find it? From what ive read online owners have reported some sensors work and some dont.The one i purchased was an exact visual match and of decent quality so must be something within that determines whether your car will accept it?
 
Just been thinking the whole thing over again.I have two sensors...the old one and the new one.Both can be reset with my reader but both trigger a light after a minite or two driving.
I wonder if i actually have 2 sensors that work fine and the problem lies elsewhere?
Can something else within the intake/exhaust system cause issues for the knock?
Bad cat for example....prolly not but just throwing it out there.
 
Sorry I forgot to do this. Just remembered tonight and did a search on my PayPal receipts. I’ve actually found the receipt but it’s from 2015 and the eBay link doesn’t work anymore. At least that shows the longevity of the copy sensor.

I also tried a different sensor, looked very similar and was also around £18 but that gave me an error almost immediately like yours does, so I would suggest it’s down to the quality of the sensor.

This one looks decent:

 
Yes sensor quality will vary and unless you can see it in the flesh so to speak and you know whats wh its pot luck.I have scoured the net both here and abroad and it seems they work more often than not BUT in many instances fail after a few weeks/months.
Given that you need to remove intake system to fit it properly i only want to do this job once more.Also my tourer deserves better than a sensor that might not look after the engine as it should so im gona bite the bullet and buy one from honda.
Not cheap at £130 all in but it shouldn't trouble me again.
Appreciate the help,ill update once its fitted.
 
I have fitted my new genuine honda sensor today and after a good run including motorway hill climbs etc i now have no EML on dash.I have tried to get a good image to show the difference between the copy and honda part.#30530PPLA01 and its pretty clear.
Purchased my accord nearly three years ago and its has never run as smooth and quiet as it does now,especially from cold start up.I suspect the original sensor has not been functioning as it should for some time now,before the ECU finally condemned it last week.
Dont get me wrong i have always been happy with the engine but subtle little things that i noticed in the past are gone,including it barely passing its emmisions at last MOT so the next test should be interesting.20210204_143338_compress33.jpg
 
I agree, very hard to beat OEM parts. Honda stuff must go through several more QC checks than aftermarket parts and that is all the difference that you need.
Keep your Honda a Honda! within reason.
 
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