Yes the connector you are talking about with the white clip is removed by inserting a small flat head screwdriver into the white lever, you should see a small clip on there that you push down on and then the white locking lever should turn and release allowing the connector to be unplugged.
Passenger Power Window & Mirror not working.
- Thread starter Starsky
- Start date
Hi Ryan, thank you for your very helpful reply. Once I realized that the clip I had been looking for was in the white plastic lever it was easy to remove, it was a very dark day when I was looking for it and perhaps I should have taken a torch in with me. I'm just waiting for the part to arrive from a breakers yard in Birmingham and hopefully i'll be back in buisiness.
Thanks again for your help.
Avifec
Hi Folks,
I have found myself twice in this situation having to search for this very useful thread when ran into the same problems that folks
Symptoms: Passenger Power Window not working, Passenger folding mirror not folding, boot not getting unlocked when the car is unlocked
Timing: It happened last year Jan'2020 when the car was parked in airport parking for few weeks, and it just happened again when the car is hardly driven and extreme temperatures again. So it seems to be happening when its cold.
What worked last time: Having read the forum last time (thanks for all the useful replies), I removed the housing under the passenger power switch and gave it a good clean. I used the 'electrical contact cleaner' from Halfords which evaporates, and then let it dry and reconnected everything. And magically, everything started to work. So I felt that the boot, folding power mirror and passenger power window are connected as some people described in this thread. I had ***umed that it needed the power supply unit to be replaced so before I resorted to scrapyards, I did this as a desperate attempt and when it worked I wasn't sure if this is still the power unit on its last legs which 'happened to work somehow' of if it is still the weather getting the electric bits under the weather
Current Situation: As you may have guessed from the wall of text above that the same procedure didn't work this time I dried the connectors, used the electrical connectors cleaner again but nothing worked. Additionally, I read up about fuses. There are internal fuses and external fuses. The ones external in the engine compartment didn't seem to have any related fuses. The internal ones, under the passenger side glove box on the left wall, had a no.13 (20A) fusion which seemed to relate to the passenger power window. I replaced it with a working 20A fuse (figured out the working one by taking out the fuse for the rear window that stopped working when taken out) but this didn't work either. And doing all this in -3 degrees temperature wasn't fun!
Thoughts
- Given how it got fixed last time, should I leave it like this and wait for the weather to get better and hope for the dryness to help?
- Is there a way to actually test what part is not working? (like checking the current somehow in the bunch of wires that connect via the connector to the power switch?)
Can anybody on here please shed some further light on this? I would be truly grateful.
Thanks
I have found myself twice in this situation having to search for this very useful thread when ran into the same problems that folks
Symptoms: Passenger Power Window not working, Passenger folding mirror not folding, boot not getting unlocked when the car is unlocked
Timing: It happened last year Jan'2020 when the car was parked in airport parking for few weeks, and it just happened again when the car is hardly driven and extreme temperatures again. So it seems to be happening when its cold.
What worked last time: Having read the forum last time (thanks for all the useful replies), I removed the housing under the passenger power switch and gave it a good clean. I used the 'electrical contact cleaner' from Halfords which evaporates, and then let it dry and reconnected everything. And magically, everything started to work. So I felt that the boot, folding power mirror and passenger power window are connected as some people described in this thread. I had ***umed that it needed the power supply unit to be replaced so before I resorted to scrapyards, I did this as a desperate attempt and when it worked I wasn't sure if this is still the power unit on its last legs which 'happened to work somehow' of if it is still the weather getting the electric bits under the weather
Current Situation: As you may have guessed from the wall of text above that the same procedure didn't work this time
I dried the connectors, used the electrical connectors cleaner again but nothing worked. Additionally, I read up about fuses. There are internal fuses and external fuses. The ones external in the engine compartment didn't seem to have any related fuses. The internal ones, under the passenger side glove box on the left wall, had a no.13 (20A) fusion which seemed to relate to the passenger power window. I replaced it with a working 20A fuse (figured out the working one by taking out the fuse for the rear window that stopped working when taken out) but this didn't work either. And doing all this in -3 degrees temperature wasn't fun!Thoughts
- Given how it got fixed last time, should I leave it like this and wait for the weather to get better and hope for the dryness to help?
- Is there a way to actually test what part is not working? (like checking the current somehow in the bunch of wires that connect via the connector to the power switch?)
Can anybody on here please shed some further light on this? I would be truly grateful.
Thanks
Passenger Front Window Switch Module Fault
Hi all, My passenger front window module has decided to pack up again. This happened when I bought the car (I managed to get a decent chunk of money off it because of this), I took it out, cleaned it up and lacquered it and it's been fine for over 2 years. It is with our electronics engineer at...
typeaccord.co.uk
I wrote about this not long ago, it's definitley the passenger window module.
When i bought the car it had that issue, i took the module out, 'baked' it at 60-70 deg for an hour or 2, laquered the board (not the copper pads for the switch) and it worked again for 2 years.
Thank a lot for your reply.
I'm keen to find out more about "'baked' it at 60-70 deg for an hour or 2, laquered the board (not the copper pads for the switch)" please
Sorry of its dumb to ask but did you literally put it in the gas oven? Would it not affect the plastic housing ***embly?
And what is the lacquered part about? Is that something to do with the adverse effect of baking?
Thanks
Channel Hopper
Members
70 degrees is 'just a bit too hot to touch', its all down to the ambient moisture, which is what an oven will drive out from the circuitry.
Nothing major for a piece of thermosetting plastic.
Nothing major for a piece of thermosetting plastic.
Hi Again
So I gave it a go, here are some pictures...
This is the connector that stayed in the car, I'm concerned that this may have the moisture too that could be part of the problem?
It looked pretty dry but I used the hair dryer to dry it as well.
Next I opened up the housing ***embly for the unit (not sure if I'm using the right words but a picture is worth thousand words )
I tried to dry the electric board (in the pic above) keeping it over the burner / hob at a distance for 5-10 minutes. The heat was enough that I could keep my hand in it. Then I reconnected it but no luck
At the moment the board is being 'baked-in' at a very low heat, hoping this will dry up any ambient moisture in the circuitry.
I still can't believe that even the blinker lights for locking/unlocking are connected to this part in the picture above. But it seems to connect the blinkers / passenger power window / passenger side mirror / boot
I will try to dry the connector in the first picture with hair dryer even more and then connect everything, will post here if I have any luck.
Meanwhile, if anyone has any other ideas, please share!
Thanks
So I gave it a go, here are some pictures...
This is the connector that stayed in the car, I'm concerned that this may have the moisture too that could be part of the problem?
It looked pretty dry but I used the hair dryer to dry it as well.
Next I opened up the housing ***embly for the unit (not sure if I'm using the right words but a picture is worth thousand words
)I tried to dry the electric board (in the pic above) keeping it over the burner / hob at a distance for 5-10 minutes. The heat was enough that I could keep my hand in it. Then I reconnected it but no luck
At the moment the board is being 'baked-in' at a very low heat, hoping this will dry up any ambient moisture in the circuitry.
I still can't believe that even the blinker lights for locking/unlocking are connected to this part in the picture above. But it seems to connect the blinkers / passenger power window / passenger side mirror / boot
I will try to dry the connector in the first picture with hair dryer even more and then connect everything, will post here if I have any luck.
Meanwhile, if anyone has any other ideas, please share!
Thanks
Neilos84
Members
Having exact same problem,same symptoms, must be a common problem and seems the breakers have found out what these cost new, as either the part is sold, or they want £120 for it
Troy McClure
New Member
Before trying to remove the board completely, try cleaning the gold plated pads on the board where the window switch makes contact- worked for me.
Neilos84
Members
Yea. Cooking it and cleaning the contacts 100% worked for me also...
Cleaned the actual switch contact with vinegar. Then i baked the full module at 70° for 2 hours.
Seems to have even sorter the problem of my passenger side window slowly going back up.
As mentioned in this post. My car had been sat for 10 days decemeber just gone....
Happy is an understatment
Cleaned the actual switch contact with vinegar. Then i baked the full module at 70° for 2 hours.
Seems to have even sorter the problem of my passenger side window slowly going back up.
As mentioned in this post. My car had been sat for 10 days decemeber just gone....
Happy is an understatment
And the problem is back, yet again
This time I baked it for 2 hours and it gave up in 2 minutes!
I wonder what is the root cause here?
Haven't tried to clean the board with circuit cleaner this time, but that's what I'm going to do next.
Alll those symptoms are back... blinkers / passenger power window / passenger side mirror / boot..all these stopped working.
Could it be those bunch of cables and connector (that connect to passenger module) has got the moisture? Last time I used a hair dryer to dry that out...
It's frustrating!
This time I baked it for 2 hours and it gave up in 2 minutes!
I wonder what is the root cause here?
Haven't tried to clean the board with circuit cleaner this time, but that's what I'm going to do next.
Alll those symptoms are back... blinkers / passenger power window / passenger side mirror / boot..all these stopped working.
Could it be those bunch of cables and connector (that connect to passenger module) has got the moisture? Last time I used a hair dryer to dry that out...
It's frustrating!
Neilos84
Members
I used hairdryer on the cable block for about 3 minutes, mine still all working
Exactly same thing happend to my accord just last week ,took the switch out put on radiator in the house for 2 days ,its back in the car now working fine ,will see how long for
This time I have tried this too, as opposed to baking it. Mines been on the radiator for the last couple of days and I have tried to dry the cables connector as well. Yet to put it back, will post here how it goes.
My experience is that you bake the switch and it works for a few days and then the problem comes back... until the weather gets better.
I haven't figured out what is the real problem here, is it the faulty switch that gets the moisture or the cable / connector that transfers the moisture to the switch?
Has anyone tried to replace the switch and if that resolved the problem?
My experience is that you bake the switch and it works for a few days and then the problem comes back... until the weather gets better.
I haven't figured out what is the real problem here, is it the faulty switch that gets the moisture or the cable / connector that transfers the moisture to the switch?
Has anyone tried to replace the switch and if that resolved the problem?
ceann
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I also ran into this problem and took out the passenger switch disassembled it and cleaned it all with isopropyl alcohol, then left the motherboard to dry on a radiator for 2 days. Reinstalled it today and unfortunately no joy. I feel like the board itself is pretty unlikely to get wet/damp but the connection port that stays in the car is much more likely to get damp, so I’m thinking maybe that’s where the problem is? I might try a hair dryer on the connection in the car 2mro and try to give it a clean and see if that works, if not I guess I’ll be looking for a breaker for a passenger switch or do I try bake the unit? When ye baked it did you put in the whole unit? Like when you first pop it out of the car or are ye just putting in the motherboard? Are ye just putting it on a tray in the oven?
ceann
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Did you ever solve this?
Baking the unit definitely helps, it has helped me in most occasions but it is random in terms of how long it will last. I only put the motherboard in the oven, not the whole unit. Detaching the motherboard from the unit is a bit fiddly, it has eight clips that you have to undo. I use two screwdrivers (flat face ones) to do this. Make your your tray is dry, best to put a baking paper on the tray first. Or you can use a steel bowl and put that into the oven and put motherboard in it to avoid any grease touching your unit.
When I last did it, the blinkers, boot, side mirrors started to work but interestingly the passenger window didn't work. Everything has been working since then except the passenger window.
If you find the passenger switch at some online breaker, please do let me know too
ceann
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So I baked the unit yesterday at 70* for 2 hours and also used a hair dry on the connection in the car for a few minutes but unfortunately when I put everything back in it still didn’t work for me, Im now going to try source a second hand passenger window switch and install it and hopefully that will work. Just as a side note I had the car into my Honda dealership for a full diagnostic check about a month ago and they did say that the switch was gone and it was throwing up a fault on the HDS system, so maybe with HDS they can tell if the switch is gone. Anyways, will post in here when I source a new switch and hopefully this will solve my problem
So I baked the unit yesterday at 70* for 2 hours and also used a hair dry on the connection in the car for a few minutes but unfortunately when I put everything back in it still didn’t work for me, Im now going to try source a second hand passenger window switch and install it and hopefully that will work. Just as a side note I had the car into my Honda dealership for a full diagnostic check about a month ago and they did say that the switch was gone and it was throwing up a fault on the HDS system, so maybe with HDS they can tell if the switch is gone. Anyways, will post in here when I source a new switch and hopefully this will solve my problem
Try leaving it on the radiator for couple of days after baking it, I had it too that it didn't work after baking once and then I further dried it.
How much did Honda charge for the diagnostics?
Please keep us posted where you source the switch from and the price, I'd be interested too as my passenger window is still not working when everything else has been sorted.
So I baked the unit yesterday at 70* for 2 hours and also used a hair dry on the connection in the car for a few minutes but unfortunately when I put everything back in it still didn’t work for me, Im now going to try source a second hand passenger window switch and install it and hopefully that will work. Just as a side note I had the car into my Honda dealership for a full diagnostic check about a month ago and they did say that the switch was gone and it was throwing up a fault on the HDS system, so maybe with HDS they can tell if the switch is gone. Anyways, will post in here when I source a new switch and hopefully this will solve my problem
Did Honda give you part number please?
smokingman
Members
Hi all,
There seems to be a common sort of resolution in that heat seem to sort it! this is my theory- it is to do with the solder used to make modern electrical goods. Old solder was made of 60/40 lead/tin and was very good at making electrical joints. If a joint was made incorrectly it would lead to a dry joint and problems would be the result, so a dab with a soldering iron problem solved. Fast forward to when lead is banned new solder is made of silver and tin and requires slightly higher temp to make a joint which may not be perfect. Which is why heating may work for a while.
There seems to be a common sort of resolution in that heat seem to sort it! this is my theory- it is to do with the solder used to make modern electrical goods. Old solder was made of 60/40 lead/tin and was very good at making electrical joints. If a joint was made incorrectly it would lead to a dry joint and problems would be the result, so a dab with a soldering iron problem solved. Fast forward to when lead is banned new solder is made of silver and tin and requires slightly higher temp to make a joint which may not be perfect. Which is why heating may work for a while.
ceann
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No part number but I ***ume it’s the same as the one that came out of mine which was 35760-TL0-E01-M1, although after looking around it does seem like only the 35760-TL0 matters, like mentioned earlier in this forum post. As for the diagnostic it cost €40-50 I’m not 100% sure as I also got them to do a full vehicle under body check including check ball joints etc and the total was €80. They quoted me €198 plus vat for a new switch LOL I’ve sourced a second hand one for €30 including shipping so I think I’ll go with that and hopefully don’t have to deal with this issue for another while
ceann
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So just to update, picked up a second hand passenger switch today for €25 off a guy breaking an accord. Switched it out and all problems solved Window going up and down, mirror folding in and out, boot working and ambers lighting up when locking/unlocking car. Anyone having this issue I would recommend trying the baking/cleaning method first and then go and get a second hand one from someone breaking an accord Definitely beats paying €198 + VAT for a new switch from Honda. So glad to be done with this issue, this forum post has been a great help
Window going up and down, mirror folding in and out, boot working and ambers lighting up when locking/unlocking car. Anyone having this issue I would recommend trying the baking/cleaning method first and then go and get a second hand one from someone breaking an accord Definitely beats paying €198 + VAT for a new switch from Honda. So glad to be done with this issue, this forum post has been a great help ricer_senior
New Member
Sorry for digging out the old post but it saved me a good bit of headache so I want to thank the members that suggested passenger window switch.
My car had the exact symptoms as described but it all started when my blinkers didn't flash upon locking the car so window switch was nowhere in my ideas.
Switch that I ordered had a different part number than the one I had but apparently that's due to different trim lines and years of production. Essentially they're all the same.
My car had the exact symptoms as described but it all started when my blinkers didn't flash upon locking the car so window switch was nowhere in my ideas.
Switch that I ordered had a different part number than the one I had but apparently that's due to different trim lines and years of production. Essentially they're all the same.
Scania Accord
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Realize this is an old thread and that some of the members might not be active here anymore, but as this seems to be a fairly frequent issue, I will add my post
Probably should point out first that my accord is a LHD as I’m not in the UK, but it shouldn’t really matter as its ought to be the same components in a mirrored configuration.
Problem:
The trunk don’t unlock via the central un-looking button on the key fob or via the outside button (on the trunk), but do open via the button on the inside of the driver’s door and the separate trunk open button on the key fob.
I haven’t tested the passenger side electric window yet as I was concerned not to get it back up again, but we ran into the passenger side mirror not folding out as it should after having them folded.
Also no hazard flash when unlock and locking, should add that the problem is a bit intermittent.
Did check for fault codes via my Bluetooth dongle, but it didn’t pick up anything.
Order a used passenger door window switch from the scrap yard earlier today as this thread points at it as very likely to be the culprit
Probably should point out first that my accord is a LHD as I’m not in the UK, but it shouldn’t really matter as its ought to be the same components in a mirrored configuration.
Problem:
The trunk don’t unlock via the central un-looking button on the key fob or via the outside button (on the trunk), but do open via the button on the inside of the driver’s door and the separate trunk open button on the key fob.
I haven’t tested the passenger side electric window yet as I was concerned not to get it back up again, but we ran into the passenger side mirror not folding out as it should after having them folded.
Also no hazard flash when unlock and locking, should add that the problem is a bit intermittent.
Did check for fault codes via my Bluetooth dongle, but it didn’t pick up anything.
Order a used passenger door window switch from the scrap yard earlier today as this thread points at it as very likely to be the culprit
Be careful with this line of reasoning. The reason the master control is on the "passenger" side in the UK cars could be because that is the drivers side for 95% of Hondas world wide, and therefore the "base" model. For the UK/Japan/AU/SA models they just added a remote circuit for the "master" switches to the control unit by adding an extra bit to the wiring harness.
I could be wrong, but keep this in mind when you start pulling out parts.
Scania Accord
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I get your point and appreciate the heads up, the only thing we can be sure of is that the car industry will always choose whatever solution that will be cheapest for them to manufacture.
In this case the design seems to be the same on the LHD Accord however.
I replaced the passenger door window switch this weekend and now the missing functions are back again (thanks to this thread & forum
).I did nevertheless get a new problem; now when the closing the window reaches its end position it bounces back about two inches before stopping, so to be able to close it properly you have to carefully do it in small steps until there is no gap, but the window still has a few mm left to travel, pretty sure it wasn’t like this before and I’m thinking it might have to do with the replaced component.
I ***ume this is some kind of safety feature to prevent fingers, arms etc getting jammed that has gone bananas ....
This should fix it.https://typeaccord.co.uk/board/threads/window-problem.2199/post-27207
Alternatively, this youtube video
.
Alternatively, this youtube video
.
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