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rear brake binding

G

Gizmodeblah

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Location
Essex
Car
honda accord estate
hi all, i know this i fairly common and i have read several other posts on this forum but just looking for advise.

my rear passanger side brake is binding. alloy wheel very hot after short drive. from what ive read people advise changing the rear brake flexi pipes. is this correct? and where can these be purchased as i just called hh for a price and was very supprised to be quoted £50.40 each. does that sound right? i took the wheel off today to check which calipers ive got and i think there the nissin ones but not 100% sure. where is the vin located as looking on the eurocarparts site its says vin cn2 is the nissin and vin cn1 is lucus. if it helps i took some photos of the caliper when wheel was off but not sure how to post them so could email if required.

also need new pads and thinking the discs might as well be done at the same time but looking to keep cost down as much as poss as just got the car and misses wont be happy if have large bill strait away (i know its going to be enough already. so really any advice or ideas for parts would be a great help. msg me if you dont want to post the supplier details on here incase that isnt done thing. thanks in advace

craig
 
Unless the disks are really bad, I'd leave them alone. It's quite a task to change them, but it's still DIY-able.

Sticking pad sliders are often the cause of rear brake binding on the tourer, as even slight corrosion makes them seize up (easy to fix... either replace if low, or file up the edges to remove the corrosion). While you're checking that it should be easy to see how easily the caliper piston pushes back in... if it does, then there's no further issue. If it doesn't push back in easily, then I reckon it's probably the caliper, but others will say flexi. In 6 years/65k miles I've had to free off pad sliders 4 times, and another time replace a seized caliper. I've never had to change a flexi.

btw, saloons and tourers have very different rear brakes.
 
I replaced my flexi (Genuine Honda was £50 :( ) and split the old one open to find nothing wrong with it at all. Others on TA swear they can degrade inside and cause sticking issues. You can get pattern parts for much less. Don't know how good they are.

As Jon_G says a partial strip and clean is your first (least expensive) port of call.

For me a calliper re-build was the cure. I DIY'd it without too much difficulty ( see HERE ) or you could just get a re-con one ( Bigg Red and others) and swap it on.

You're not alone with tourer rear brake binding troubles, do a search (Google box top right) on the forum -there's tons of stuff on it. As far as I know there's only two types of calliper: one with integral handbrake (saloon) and one with out (tourer -handbrake on separate shoes). I stand to be corrected on that ;)

I kept my discs and pads after the repair, though there are now signs of uneven wear now so I think the pads got toasted a bit, and will probably need to be changed before my MOT.
 
I did my rear discs and pads on a saloon at the wknd all in about £70 for brembo from nextdaybrakes.com and its also worth doing a full brake fluid flush at the same time, mine was black ! but you will need a second pair of hands for this and be prepared its all a very dirty job !
 
Brakes International have the calipers, hoses or all rebuild parts at very resonable prices if you decide to go that route.
 
Dave G said:
Brakes International have the calipers, hoses or all rebuild parts at very resonable prices if you decide to go that route.
Click to expand...

For me it was a combination of the sliders corroding and the caliper seizing. In the end didn't bother with the hose based on Matt's research, just the caliper and cleaned the holder. Bought the calipers from Big Red for £80 + P&P for the pair (this excluded a £40 deposit for the return of the old calipers). Done it once (the caliper) and don't expect to have to do it again in my ownership of the car.
 
I don't know what caused mine I just replaced the calipers and hoses on both sides.
 
+ 1 for replacing caliper but not hose, I can recommend brakepartssuperstore, they sell single calipers as well as pairs

as long as the disc isn't below 8mm thick and not too rusted & scored you don't need to change it

you can check the hose by gripping it and feeling for bulges while someone else presses the brake pedal

use silicone grease on the sliders not coppergrease or red rubber grease
 
hi all thanks so much for all the replys. im going to leave the hose now. when ive been looking i have seen pad fitting kits mentioned. are these really required? ive never had to buy one before when ive done pads. that said ive never had a honda accord before.

i ***ume its worth getting the CALIPER/slider FITTING KIT. comes with the silicone grease.

do i still need the washers if im not changing the hose now?

so parts im getting are:
1.discs 281mm diam
2.pads
3.1x caliper nissin type
4.caliper/slider fitting kit
& maybe need washers and pad fitting kit?

is that everything?
 
I've never heard of a pad fitting kit before! Silicone greases (e.g. Molykote) are widely available, sometimes calipers come with some, sometimes they don't. I fitted a replacement rear caliper to an MR2 roadster yesterday and the box (from Camskill) had everything (except brake fluid) you'd need to do the job, including grease and new slider guides.

If you don't change the hose or caliper, then you won't need the banjo bolt washers. But I reused mine without a problem.

Make sure you read the TA thread about replacing tourer rear discs... it is easy to upset the handbrake mechanism (a member who shall remain anonymous did this recently and had to buy a replacement set of brake shoe springs).
 
Hey guys got it done on friday. Just went for euro car parts pagid stuff which discs pads and 1x rear caliper exchange was 144.00 and the caliper came with the slider grease. I paid a garage to do it in the end as read that link but decided I best not start trying on my family daily driver. Thanks again for all reply and help.
 
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