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Rear caliper Issues

simontown

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2004 Accord Tourer
Hi Guys,

Noticed excessive heat from the rear caliper on my Tourer today, and that the normally lime green EBC pads had changed colour.

The caliper is obviously binding and has overheated the pads.

Looking for some advice on how best to proceed?

I really don't want to fork out a fortune for a brand new caliper from Honda, and wondered whether a recon unit or rebuild would be likely to be the best option?

If recon can anyone advise on the best people to use?

Thanks

Simon
 
As CJ said mate do a search but here is 1 thread to get you started.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/2127-major-rear-brake-issue-2007-tourer/page__view__findpost__p__25875__hl__rear+brakes__fromsearch__1
 
As CJ said mate do a search but here is 1 thread to get you started.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/2127-major-rear-brake-issue-2007-tourer/page__view__findpost__p__25875__hl__rear+brakes__fromsearch__1

Had RAC out and took a look the pads were binding, but will get it checked at the garage before replacing the caliper.

Thanks

Simon
 
Had RAC out and took a look the pads were binding, but will get it checked at the garage before replacing the caliper.

Thanks

Simon
Simon have a word with hot fuzz he had the same trouble.
 
Been to honda for a service and to sort rear offside brake binding issues, 2 days later same thing hot rear wheel! any idears caliper was removed and cleaned by honda dealer, so im hopeing they knew what they were doing?
anyone know where i can get a new caliper - the honda dealer price? 03 tourer auto
 
I paid €65 for a rear caliper carrier last week from Honda so I would imagine the caliper will be at least that again...
 
Before spending money have you actually taken it off and cleaned all parts up so there is no crud/rust affecting things? When I did mine a couple of weeks ago there was a fair old build up of crud so I gave it all a good wire brushing and a small amount of copper grease where the pads "slide" in the carrier.

Whilst in there I'd check the piston to see if its rusted or the seals split etc. then look for "scrape marks" that may suggest its not sat true in the caliper.
 
My mechanic stripped the caliper today, gave it a really good clean, and checked the seals and found no issues.

Checked the hoses and seemed fine.

Fitted new pads and took the car out for a test drive with plenty of hard breaking.

Hey presto problem solved.


Lets hope it doesn't come back!

Thanks to Hot Fuzz for the advice :)
 
Hiya, a bit new to this forum, so apologies for stepping on anybody's toes.
I have recently (ie. the last fortnight) had cause to look at binding rear calipers, initially on the nearside, and after being quoted ridiculous prices for replacement (pads and shoes) I got down and dirty.
Rear pads were in need of replacement (approx 45k) but the shoes (inside the drum, for the handbrake) were like new.
I replaced the pads keeping my fingers crossed that this would solve the problem. They were a little too snug fitting into the calliper guides to be honest, but not having worked on this before (and it being 0 degrees, on my hands and knees) I didn't pay too much attention to this as the wheels did turn after refitting and hoped that they would 'bed-in'.
On my second attempt under the car (now a balmy 1 degree, but the hubs were hot enough), the offside wheel now seemed to be attracting more heat than the nearside. Both callipers could be moved (grunt) but I noticed that the pads stayed in contact with the disk, and were reluctant to move along the guides. The guides are lined with a different steel (stainless?) but the new pads just seemed to be too big (top to bottom mainly) to fit sweetly in the gap. My first thought was that the lacquered finish on the pads seemed to be too irregular and interfered with the fit but, remembering the reason I was here in the first place, dug the old pads back out of the bin to compare. Very little difference. Ok, so the stainless shims were in need of a thorough scrubbing but even so the fit was tight.
I wondered if crud was building up underneath the shims and played about trying to lift them and get a good look. They are obviously pressed into place well enough, and I wasn't going to remove them without taking the caliper out and putting it on a bench which I didn't want to get into (bleeding's not my most favourite activity, and besides the shims were not likely to come out unscathed).
Bottom line is, I think there is some build up (corrosion, dirt, dust?) occurring between the calliper and the stainless shims (it has been very wet recently) which is decreasing the guide clearances.
My remedy (I can't advocate this!) was to remove the lacquered finish off thepads, so that the ends were flat. This allowed the pads to move in the guides and my brakes now release effectively, with no binding.

Hope this helps.
Emptygroves
 
Hi fellow Accordians,

I just want to know what my options are as my driver side rear caliper is sticking/brake binding...I was advised by Honda about this but havent had the chance to sort it out until today as the pad is lower than the other side and is now making a sound.

Last year when the pads were replaced by the garage they said the slider pin was damaged dont ask me how anyway they replaced it with a second hand one and im thinking this is the culprit...

Do i need a replacement caliper ? or is there anything else that can be done?
 
Hi fellow Accordians,

I just want to know what my options are as my driver side rear caliper is sticking/brake binding...I was advised by Honda about this but havent had the chance to sort it out until today as the pad is lower than the other side and is now making a sound.

Last year when the pads were replaced by the garage they said the slider pin was damaged dont ask me how anyway they replaced it with a second hand one and im thinking this is the culprit...

Do i need a replacement caliper ? or is there anything else that can be done?

I'd strip it down and clean it up and make sure you grease the slider pin, see how the piston is when you rewind it.

A few threads to help you

Improving Brakes

DIY Disc & Pads Change

7th Gen Torque settings

Certainly worth a go as it probably just clogged with dirt, dust etc.
 
Thanks cjm stripped the caliper, the slider pins were a bit stuck, applied grease on them, cleaned calliper and all is good and thanks once again for the helpful threads you mentioned
 
Solution for binding of nearside rear tourer pads that worked for me was take out the sprung (stainless?) steel caliper rubbing plate and wire brush the rust off the pad carrier that was pushing the plate toward the pads and causing the pads to be too tight.
Had thought about Hammerite for the area of the carrier that touches the plate but will wait to see how long it is before pads bind again.
Worth trying this before splashing out on new calipers, etc.
Happy scrubbing!
 
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