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Rear disc HOT

AndyB1976

AndyB1976

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Location
Glasgow
Car
2002 F18B2 CG8
Hello everyone

Took the car out today and noticed a 'burning smell' from the rear offside after about 8miles once parked up. Touched the alloy and it was quite warm, some emptied some water onto the disc and it basically boiled away.

Got it home and got the slider pins out, looked a bit gunked up so wiped them down and redone them with red rubber grease. The outer pad was a bit stuck in the carrier but eventually got it out. I left the carrier on but gave it a good wire brushing along with the removed pads, copper greased the pad shoes. The pads looked ok, equal wear on both pads around 5mm left on each of them. I then had some problems easing the caliper back on so turned the piston back (with the tool) and lined up the piston notches and the caliper went on ok.

Put everything back and went to adjust the hand brake cable whilst the car was raised and then noticed that the offending wheel/disc was somewhat lacking in braking friction compared to the other 'working' side.

Went for a test drive around 6 miles and there still a lot of heat on that disc, not as bad as earlier but much warmer than the near side rear.

The wheel seems to be freely rotating and there is no noise at all from it. I am a bit puzzled by this.

Anyone seem these symptoms before?




Andy
 
You might have to replace the inner "square-cut" o-ring of the brake calliper piston, they are the responsible of "pushing" the piston when you stop breaking....

You can buy a set of o-rings to rebuild the calliper, its not expensive. I already do that to mine, and it worked ok ;)

Take a look at this guys, they have good quality kits:
http://www.biggred.co.uk/

They are also on ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/Bigg-Red
 
For a start i wouldn't have put cold water on a hot disk im not sure but this could have made things worse going hot to cold in a short space of time.
I would say you might have warped the disk and might need new pads as well but see what other members think.
As for the lack of friction the pads might be burnt and need time to rub off the scorched surface.
 
Hi Andy

Personally I would just buy a second hand caliper off ebay or a breaker for £50 and put it on rather than messing about but it's up to you obviously.
 
Hi Andy,

I had exactly the same symptom but with my front offside wheel. I started to notice a 'burning' smell every time I stopped the car. Felt the wheel which was quite warm, in fact, it was getting hot. This happened when we had all the snow and I threw a little bit onto the disc and like you say, it was so hot, it instantly evaporated into steam! Eeekk.

Took it to my garage and a siezed caliper was to blame, basically the pads were in constant contact with the disc, hence heat build up due to friction. Due to pads being in constant contact with the disc, this resulted in a noticable lip on the disc. End result - two new front discs, one recon caliper and new pads, cost almost £500 inc labour.
 
BondJamesBond said:
End result - two new front discs, one recon caliper and new pads, cost almost £500 inc labour.
Click to expand...

£500 labour thats way over the top.

To OP agree its defo a sticking caliper piston, Im with Cliff just get a recon unit and do a straight swap.
 
I think he meant parts and labour bud...
 
I had to tax my car today and handily have my Honda folder containing said receipt for work, which is as follows :

1 x Brake Caliper - £125.00
2 x Brake Discs - £104.46 (£52.23 each)
1 x Pad Set - £28.20
Parts Total - £257.86
Labour - £90.00
Sub Total - £347.66
Vat @ 20% - £69.53
TOTAL PAID £417.19

Reasonable or not....answers on a postcard please.
 
Geoff

I think £500 is what it is - the going rate for brand new Honda parts and Honda labour.

Not everyone knows how to do this sort of thing themselves.

Most people CAN do this sort of job though, IF they know how.

Sometimes discs do have a lip - maybe they needed replacing and maybe they didn't - measuring the disc thickness with a micrometer and checking against the specified minimum thickness is something you can do yourself in 5 or 10 minutes. And it may have been possible to free up and lubricate the piston, or if not, you could have just bought a second hand one off ebay for £50 and fitted it [DIY caliper recon is beyond me!].

About 10 years ago I got charged nearly £300 for a new radiator by Honda on a car that wasn't worth much more than that. That was a lot of money then and it gave me a huge wake up call as I decided I was never going to get stung like that again. I took evening classes in car maintenance and now I do about 80% of jobs on my car myself and save a fortune, and now the garage just does my MOT and whatever jobs I can't. For example changing a radiator is in fact an easy job, as is swapping a brake caliper - it's just a matter of knowing what to do.
 
Hi Cliff,

Thanks, I appreciate some people are naturally mechanically minded and can change calipers, radiators, engines, gearboxes etc without referring to manuals etc. There are also other people like me who when opening the bonnet have absolutely no idea what does what and what goes where; beyond checking the oil, brakes, clutch, power steering fluids and washer fluid I have no clue! My toolbox consists of a few screwdrivers, sockets and bits and pieces, that's it. I don't even have any ramps or a trolley jack. Without a Haynes Manual (don't think there is one for 6th Gen, checked at Halfords this morning), I wouldn't know what to do regarding anything mechanical ie. changing a disc and caliper. Therefore to avoid the expense of buying ramps and jacks, specialist tools (and storing them), ruining my drive with oil and knowing that the job is done right, I HAVE to go to the local garage to get things done and I HAVE to pay the hourly rate, unfortunately. :(
 
there is an old saying guys keep to your trade.
It your not confident don't do it as it might cost you more long term
 
hi all

hehe I like that 1 about people sticking to there trades lol

As for the problems you all have been having, its a common thing in hondas for calipers to stick! :( the EP civics are renound for this problem. as some1 earlier said replacing the o-rings will fix this problem, but i would personly put two reconditioned calipers on and once a year fully work the caliper.
 
I'm not sure I agree with you on this, guys.

Anyone can learn new skills, provided they are willing to learn.

We're talking basic car DIY, not brain surgery or rocket science!

I have seen plenty of people on this forum pick up the spanners and become competent DIY mechanics.

I'm no genius, and I'm even a particularly practical person, but I've done it myself so I know how easy it is.

We can help each other on this forum. Provided we want to help, and want to be helped, that is!
 
Gotta agree with our resident 6th gen Guru Cliff here ;) It ain't rocket science, and yes whilst CJ is right, safety is critical - I would suggest having the help of a competent mechanic or DIY enthusiast that can supervise/help the first time you attempt something like brakes.
 
Further to the above, I am glad to report that I have just got back from meeting a great bloke Stu in Tamworth, who is an expert with 6th Gen Accords. I learnt more from him in the past four hours than I ever could reading manuals and forums. As he took my dashboard apart (which is something I would never contemplate doing), he took time to explain to me what does what and what goes where. When the bonnet was popped, again he explained to me what was what and what different parts did, which was most illuminating.

One thing is for sure, both my Accord and the wife's Civic will be going to Stu in future, not the local garage, there nothing he doesn't know about Hondas and he "treats all cars like they were his own" which is very reassuring to know. Thanks for you help Stu, much appreciated and I'll be seeing you again in a few weeks for that part and an oil change. :D
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.

I am thinking of going down the recon'd route, maybe even buying new from HH depending on price difference. Are new calipers supplied as complete units, I won't have to ultilise existing parts bleeder, piston or will I ?

Are there any things I need to be aware of with regards to the handbrake mechanism, any special tools required for remove/seating the cable? Sorry if thats a dim question, but have never done a caliper before. :rolleyes:



Andy
 
AndyB1976 said:
Thanks for all the replies guys.

I am thinking of going down the recon'd route, maybe even buying new from HH depending on price difference. Are new calipers supplied as complete units, I won't have to ultilise existing parts bleeder, piston or will I ?

Are there any things I need to be aware of with regards to the handbrake mechanism, any special tools required for remove/seating the cable? Sorry if thats a dim question, but have never done a caliper before. :rolleyes:



Andy
Click to expand...
I bought a set of second hand rear calipers for my sisters Almera. Made sure the car had low miles and really inspected the calipers before buying. At £40 for a pair it was a cheap buy and two years on they are working perfectly.
 
Pepster said:
bud some some are so inept with spanner they cannot be taught common sense.. skill and ability aside not ever one can be taught a mechanical skill.

common sense is not so COMMON.. I wont buy a car let alone test drive a car where a weekend warrior has had a go and all the bolt are overtightened. Even on here members have dont their own DIY and calipers are coming off wheel travelling in front of them mate it is not funny it deadly. If these people have no care for their safety but saving money...

I am all for people to work on their own cars but please do it after some training evening classes or a under someone supervision removing bolts and putting back together can be done by my 7 year old daughter too ..
Click to expand...

Sound advice mate - DIY car maintenance isn't difficult, but it's not for cissies either.
 
Damn, must have been having too much fun with A-Spec and Stage 2 maps and missed the brake tutorial :lol:

I need to spend a couple of hours quietly on my own with a some toys and possibly the ol' man for moral support. Either that or I can badger CJ on the phone :lol: Brake servicing is something I really ought to be able to do, but just never had the time to learn the practical side of things.
 
A few years ago I had sticking rear calipers(not Honda)and it turned out to be partially collapsed flexible pipes stopping the fluid returning.If thats the case your local auto shop would match them and save Honda prices.
 
I have recently had the same symptoms and on the same calliper as yourself. I fount that it was the handbrake cam (Incorporated in the rear callipers), the rubber seal had gone. Anyway the handbrake would not fully come off?
Another common reason for the brake pads not releasing as they always should is that the rails that guide the pads can rust a bit. If you combine this with a set of cheap pads, which can quite often come with an excess of paint where they mate with the guides.
I managed to source a rear o/s calliper from this site which was matched roughly to my mileage (PM me and I can pass on the details), I think I got it for about £35 (inc postage). I suppose that is just for any one who has the same problem and may be searching on here in the future.
 
One questions I have though - how hot is hot?

Often wondered, obviously amount of braking and speed play a part, but say after a couple of miles driving at 40 or 50, you come to a progressive stop (say up to traffic lights). How hot should the front and rears be with an ambient temperature of 20 is degrees?
 
Thanks for all the replies guy. The issue is now fixed, the caliper was seized somewhere I have yet to strip it. I will get around to doing a write up for it, but I did have issues getting the handbrake cable through the caliper on this new thread...I was at it for over an hour :rolleyes:

Peter that sounds very similar to the problem I had, I'll list the pics here of the old n new caliper.

Dan, the disc was able to boil water off it in under 2-3 miles and the alloy was hot (not burning) to touch.

A repeat of the pics from the new thread, just to bring this one to a close
IMG_8545.jpg


IMG_8544.jpg
 
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