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Replacing a rear calliper

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leemond80

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2.2 ICTDI Sport
Hi Guys,

After changing the discs and pads on my 7th gen this weekend I have a problem. My Uncle was trying to wind back the piston uising the wrong tool (LH wind) and now the calliper seems to be dead. It doesnt apply any pressure onto the disc now so I think it is in need of changing.

Does anyone know how hard it is to remove and replace the part and if there is anything I need to do afterwards i.e. bleeding the brake system?

I can get a 2nd hand part for around £55 so its not too expensive.

Cheers,

Lee
 
It's strange that piston is not moving, did you noticed any brake fluid leaks around caliper? If you need to change caliper is easy job judt need to undo two bolts from caliper carrier, brake line and hand brake and that's it sfter fitting new one you need to bleed your rear brakes.
 
Nope no fluid leaks that i can see.

Bleed the brakes? How do i do that?

If it is simple I will probably give it a go myself.

Cheers,
 
Having replaced a rear caliper last summer, I agree with Grzesiek that replacement should be really easy. Oddly, I have no need to rotate the pistons on my tourer when pushing them back in (maybe you have a saloon, which might explain the difference?). Check the hose hasn't collapsed and, if you do replace the caliper, make sure you hold onto and re-use the washers that fit either side of the brake line banjo fitting (or buy new ones). Bledding is simple, but if you're not sure how to then - for safety's sake - you should get a more knowledgeable person to help and guide you!
 
If you need to ask how to bleed brakes then it's not something you should be attempting by yourself. Either watch your mechanic do it (or offer to help him so he can teach you) or have someone who knows what they're doing with you to guide you through the process. It's not something you should just be 'having a crack at' it's too dangerous if you get it wrong.
 
just want to add, if you have tourer then handbrake doesn't apply to you as handbrake is operated in drum ;)
 
its a saloon so no drums :)

I am now thinking it isnt the caliper as the brakes were making a noise when i pressed them while driving. So I think it could be related to the cable? how easy is it to adjust the handbrake cable on the 7th gen accord?
 
it is done in the car, take the rear ashtray out and you can see an adjustment bolt with two cables coming out that is firstly connected to the handbarke
 
Hear you go Lee as Shabz said and hear is a nice DIY from Andy to help as well.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1041-accord-handbrake-adjustment/
 
Awesome! thanks guys!

I will have a crack at this tonight then. One more thing to ask i suppose is what could make one calliper apply pressure and the other not? Is there something that adjusts the load when the handbrake is applied?

Also does the 7th gen have 2 ways of applying the brakes on the rear? I ask this I as think the brake pedal operates both of them fine but the handbrake seems to only apply the drivers side rear leaving the passenger rear completely free.

you lot are life savers and I can thank you enough!
 
lee said:
Awesome! thanks guys!

I will have a crack at this tonight then. One more thing to ask i suppose is what could make one calliper apply pressure and the other not? Is there something that adjusts the load when the handbrake is applied?

Also does the 7th gen have 2 ways of applying the brakes on the rear? I ask this I as think the brake pedal operates both of them fine but the handbrake seems to only apply the drivers side rear leaving the passenger rear completely free.

you lot are life savers and I can thank you enough!
Click to expand...
The only thing i can think is the sliders on the passenger side are sticking a bit and the handbrake cable might not be pulling as good.
Try out the diy and this hopefully will solve the problem.
 
If the calliper isn't squeezing the pads onto the disk when you press the break pedal then forget about the handbrake. This often happens with age and is usually caused by the piston corroding in the bores.
You need to either remove the piston and clean everything up or replace the calliper.
 
The piston moves really nicely when using the wingback tool do not sure if that's the issue.

I'll post again after adjusting the cable to let you all know.
 
Remove the calliper and press the brake pedal a few times and watch the piston push out, not too far though. Then use the tool to wind it back in before trying again. This will let you know if its working or not.
 
Calipers on my tourer do seem prone to becoming sticky. I've changed one that was partially seized, but now I'm worried about the other one - I've done as mentioned and pumped it out and forced it back in a few times, but I'm keeping an eye on it. I expect I'll have to change it soon!

Don't forget to check the flexible hose, I understand that they can collapse internally and prevent the fluid from flowing back out of the caliper completely, making the caliper 'drag'. I've not had this, so I don't know how easy it is to tell by looking, but I guess it would become more or less flexible than normal (as compared to, say, the others on the vehicle).
 
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