TouringAccord
Members
My background: I'm a car mechanic, but "retired", means I just do it for hobby now on my own cars...as I haven't got a garage, I like to join hands on in with a mechanic I know when my cars have a fault; means he does half and me the other half (as I work daytime so I can't do it it all)
Anyways, here's the interesting story about what happens when you connect 24volts to an Accord:
Problem: my follow mechanic has accidentally connected 24V to the starter battery on the attempt of starting the vehicle (...after a few days in the garage the battery was flat due to him leaving the key in the ignition lock ...first lesson: Accords draw power while the key is in
Effects while incident: All Head lights /Main Beam/Sidelights switched on, different fans / sounds etc
Effects after incident: ABS/ VSA Compressor keeps running as soon as battery is connected, even while no ignition key in lock. So therefore we pulled out the VSA fuse.
As a surprise, the Accord starts & drives, but without the following modules/functions (I drive him since tehn, no problems - apart from that I have to use an Android App to get the actual Speed)
Functions in Dashboard not working: Speedo, RevCounter, MilesCounter (means the miles stay on the count of that day, since half a year now)
Functions in Dashboard working: Tank Gauge, Indicators, Headlights (all great..imagine without these!)
The VSA Light and Handbrake Light permanently on (well, not anymore as today I disabled them)
Car functions Not working:
Air-Conditioning does not recognize that engine is running, says “please turn engine on before using the Air-Conditioning”
Radio not working, and obviously not the VSA/ABS
Car functions working: Interior lights, electric seats, electric windows, electric roof.
Interesting fact: NavigationSystem works (..it just fails to read the disc, that was before the fault already)
Attempted diagnostics:
A nearby garage we tried connecting with a simple tester – but he could not even establish a connection to the cars’ computer, as no response from the car whatsoever.
A more sophisticated Auto Electrical specialist, with more experienced electronics/Testing Equipment…they had the Accord for a few hours:
It turned out not as hoped that only one major CPU is fried, but three lower-ranking modules are faulty. They then stopped the diagnostics, as the cost of these parts would be already far higher than the cars value. Also these parts might be very hard to get used, as it’s a rare model (Executive), fully equipped with all stuff.
The parts found faulty were some “controllers”...one controlling the VSA/ABS, the one for the Air-Conditioning, and the radio Unit.
Now, the idea is not to get everything back to normal, but at least to find a way to get the MOT-essential functions back to life (Speedo)...
As said, today I disabled the warning lights off permanently (VSA/handbrake) - Instrument Cluster out, locating relevant SMD backlights and disabling them (by stuffing black fabric under the facia, tape underneath would have worked as well - all invisible).
BTW, the Accord breaks VERY well without the ABS, no hazard at all (all breaks have been overhauled just recently, as well as driveshafts and both lower suspension arms) so the car is still a really good car to drive daily, which I do.
Unfortunately like this, with a more thorough MOT Tester checking the ignition lights check, the car would not pass the MOT & would be rendered worthless/unusable/Scrap/Parts after the next MOT date (as ALL lights have to come on at ignition)
One way to get around this is to "officially" remove the ABS/VSA compressor module physically, as that is allowed by current MOT regulations...but, imgagne the hassle ripping that out (as sid, car functioning fine) so I suppose it will be a lucky dip, if or if not the MOT Tester notices or not
Apart for that, to get the speedo and Rev Counter working would be fine indeed - has any of you guys ever fitted a Speedo & Rev Counter bypassing the normal wires? (unlikely, I know - but that might be teh only way)
As said, I wanted to share my story, sorry it got long - after all who knows what happens after frying car electronis, I didn't..
Feedback Welcome
Anyways, here's the interesting story about what happens when you connect 24volts to an Accord:
Problem: my follow mechanic has accidentally connected 24V to the starter battery on the attempt of starting the vehicle (...after a few days in the garage the battery was flat due to him leaving the key in the ignition lock ...first lesson: Accords draw power while the key is in
Effects while incident: All Head lights /Main Beam/Sidelights switched on, different fans / sounds etc
Effects after incident: ABS/ VSA Compressor keeps running as soon as battery is connected, even while no ignition key in lock. So therefore we pulled out the VSA fuse.
As a surprise, the Accord starts & drives, but without the following modules/functions (I drive him since tehn, no problems - apart from that I have to use an Android App to get the actual Speed)
Functions in Dashboard not working: Speedo, RevCounter, MilesCounter (means the miles stay on the count of that day, since half a year now)
Functions in Dashboard working: Tank Gauge, Indicators, Headlights (all great..imagine without these!)
The VSA Light and Handbrake Light permanently on (well, not anymore as today I disabled them)
Car functions Not working:
Air-Conditioning does not recognize that engine is running, says “please turn engine on before using the Air-Conditioning”
Radio not working, and obviously not the VSA/ABS
Car functions working: Interior lights, electric seats, electric windows, electric roof.
Interesting fact: NavigationSystem works (..it just fails to read the disc, that was before the fault already)
Attempted diagnostics:
A nearby garage we tried connecting with a simple tester – but he could not even establish a connection to the cars’ computer, as no response from the car whatsoever.
A more sophisticated Auto Electrical specialist, with more experienced electronics/Testing Equipment…they had the Accord for a few hours:
It turned out not as hoped that only one major CPU is fried, but three lower-ranking modules are faulty. They then stopped the diagnostics, as the cost of these parts would be already far higher than the cars value. Also these parts might be very hard to get used, as it’s a rare model (Executive), fully equipped with all stuff.
The parts found faulty were some “controllers”...one controlling the VSA/ABS, the one for the Air-Conditioning, and the radio Unit.
Now, the idea is not to get everything back to normal, but at least to find a way to get the MOT-essential functions back to life (Speedo)...
As said, today I disabled the warning lights off permanently (VSA/handbrake) - Instrument Cluster out, locating relevant SMD backlights and disabling them (by stuffing black fabric under the facia, tape underneath would have worked as well - all invisible).
BTW, the Accord breaks VERY well without the ABS, no hazard at all (all breaks have been overhauled just recently, as well as driveshafts and both lower suspension arms) so the car is still a really good car to drive daily, which I do.
Unfortunately like this, with a more thorough MOT Tester checking the ignition lights check, the car would not pass the MOT & would be rendered worthless/unusable/Scrap/Parts after the next MOT date (as ALL lights have to come on at ignition)
One way to get around this is to "officially" remove the ABS/VSA compressor module physically, as that is allowed by current MOT regulations...but, imgagne the hassle ripping that out (as sid, car functioning fine) so I suppose it will be a lucky dip, if or if not the MOT Tester notices or not
Apart for that, to get the speedo and Rev Counter working would be fine indeed - has any of you guys ever fitted a Speedo & Rev Counter bypassing the normal wires? (unlikely, I know - but that might be teh only way)
As said, I wanted to share my story, sorry it got long - after all who knows what happens after frying car electronis, I didn't..
Feedback Welcome
