A much earlier owner than me wiped out the front of the car and replaced the front bumper with an earlier non-washer type but left all the hoses in place. I just figured out that new washers and caps are quite cheap direct from China and that it won't be hard to retrofit them. But I will put a relay on the pump so they only work when the driving lights are actually on.
I'm not happy with my driving lights. The high beams are good but with 80% of cars facing me at night running two or 3 times the light output I have my vision gets washed out all the time. Upgraded halogen bulbs like nightbreakers are OK but burn out in under a year, so I end up with at least one "spare" bulb in there at any one time quite often.
BTW, "upgraded" 55W halogen lights like nightbreakers aren't anything magic. Measuring the current they draw it turns out they are actually more like 70 to 80W bulbs., so the wires are getting warmer than they are meant to. How they manage to sell them as "legal" 55W bulbs I have no idea.
I have been curious about the same thing as it seems too slow, but perhaps the manual control has a regulator. searching for info about the US TSX is no help as they are not required to have self leveling HID's
the only differences between the hid and halogen lamp units is that the cutout for the igniter is blanked on halogen, and the hid projector is vastly different to the halogen one.
I figure that either the motors can do more work according to type of input, or that the amount of practical adjustment required for ordinary road conditions is actually very small. I suspect that Honda set up the leveling system to not constantly react to small inputs so it doesn't wear itself out. The motors are an obsolete part nowadays so I guess there wasn't a large demand for them as parts.
I want HID's, and from posts on this forum, the projector in the Mk7 headlight gives a sharp enough cut-off in the beam pattern for H1 replacement HID's to work nicely. But running aftermarket HID's is a defectable offence here, unless you have washers and levelling. The OEM levelling system on the Accord is a little complicated, but the test procedure for the adjuster motor is in the workshop manual. So my next thought is to figure out if I can set up a couple of ultrasonic sensors in a front and rear wheel arch that link to an Arduino that then commands the motors via a differential input algorithm or lookup table.