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Stalling - 2008 mk7 2.2 cdti

jdm01

jdm01

New Member
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Location
Central Scotland
Car
Honda Accord mk7
I don't want to start a journey on a parts lottery, so thought I'd ask some experts! Here is my experience of the car stalling and I'm hoping it strikes a chord with someone.

1. Car starts fine
2. Car drives fine
3. When car reaches temperature or soon afterwards, the car stalls with the message "Low oil pressure"
4. Oil level is fine (it does need a change soon)
5. I need to wait 5 minutes before the car starts again
6. No error codes shown in a standard Autel code reader
7. After 5 mins, it starts again - easy
8. After another 5 minutes, it stalls again in the same way.
9. I need to wait 5 minutes and then start it again.
10. Car is then fine for the rest of the day with no issues driving.

This is a link to a video that shows the car stalling! It just dies... dead!

Anyone got any ideas? I can replicate this once a day only! I've been considering DPF or fuel filter but I'm thinking "Oil pressure low" might be just because the car stalled, maybe not! Appreciate you thoughts. J
 
I wrote that post while waiting on the 2nd stall to clear! When it came back on, I drove off and then the engine threw up - 2 crank position sensors errors, 1 of them an intermittent error! Guess that's gonna be my first port of call!
 
Could it be the fuel filter? I had just filled the tank up with fuel (these days a small fortune) and its stalled 5 times in a row. So frustrating!
 
Your car doesn’t have a dpf.. never seen this issue, maybe you have a faulty oil pressure sensor or a failing oil pump (quite common on these when the chain starts to fail). But you say that it runs fine after that?
 
Absolutely runs fine after this! I've been driving it again today even after a few hours off and its still running fine! There's no stuttering or issues for the rest of the day, which pushes me to a fuel issue - I reckon the "low fuel pressure" when it stalls is a red herring and I'm wondering if the "crankshaft positioning sensor" error was due to me driving g when it stalled, it was in gear obviously so it was basically trying to jump-start itself while at speed!

Its a confusing one! But I reckon it will be a list of different things in a specific order I'll need to change before I get the proper solution.

J
 
you're on the right track with the pressure warning - don't be too concerned with it, I've had learner drivers in both my wagon and my gf's sedan and they both throw a low oil pressure warning on a stall

on some toyotas, a crank pos error will trigger if the car fails to start after several consecutive tries of cranking for several seconds without a start. this may not apply to honda, but in the case of the 2.2 avensis it was a contaminated fuel filter which the hp pump would then pull dry because of the resistance within the filter medium.
if you have a spare set of hands, try priming the underhood bulb while it's failing to start and see if it gets it going
it certainly doesn't fit with being able to wait and then starting, but it's worth a shot.

also, faulty relief valve has been documented to cause no start scenarios on these forums but afaik not as intermittently as you describe
 
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Thanks buddy, this builds my confidence in my approach! It seems only to happen once temperature was reached, I *was* investigating whether a thermostat opening could cause the fuel or oil to be impacted, but ruled this out as "my brain is just being hyper" No harm getting the fuel filter changed... DIY of course!
 
Update, got the genuine fuel filter in today! Now fitted and started the car without issues. Let the engine idle until it got up to temperature holding my breath & then the bl**dy thing stalled again in the exact same way! Gutted! I'm now back to the beginning -

Any ideas? It stalls when it reaches temperature, then I have to wait 10mins before it will start again, then it does it again after a few minutes - does this a few times then eventually drives fine!

No error messages other than the "Low oil pressure" warning after it stalls!

Do I need to head to my local Honda garage to plug into the dealer software?

Cheers J
 
mlkehunt said:
you're on the right track with the pressure warning - don't be too concerned with it, I've had learner drivers in both my wagon and my gf's sedan and they both throw a low oil pressure warning on a stall

on some toyotas, a crank pos error will trigger if the car fails to start after several consecutive tries of cranking for several seconds without a start. this may not apply to honda, but in the case of the 2.2 avensis it was a contaminated fuel filter which the hp pump would then pull dry because of the resistance within the filter medium.
if you have a spare set of hands, try priming the underhood bulb while it's failing to start and see if it gets it going
it certainly doesn't fit with being able to wait and then starting, but it's worth a shot.

also, faulty relief valve has been documented to cause no start scenarios on these forums but afaik not as intermittently as you describe
Click to expand...

When it stalled again, I tried to pump the bulb, but nothing, still didn't start! :(
 
Sorry not read the whole thread but when it stalls, does it refuse to start until it cools down or will it start and run ok? If it doesn’t start until cool then most likely a bad fuel rail pressure sensor. Easy to source from eBay for less than £30 (copy part) now. If it does start and run and will randomly stall then possibly a bad crank sensor actually.
 
Does the car crank over after reaching temperature (in the video it isn't) or simply not fire up ?

A new battery and scraping earth points clean did wonders for mine.
 
No, it cranks over fine - it just doesn't fire immediately after stalling. For around 5mins it remains like this. Then fires up as normal. stays running, then stalls again after another 5mins (after the initial wait time). Then after the next 5 mins it fires up and is perfectly fine.

Cheers J
 
F6HAD said:
Sorry not read the whole thread but when it stalls, does it refuse to start until it cools down or will it start and run ok? If it doesn’t start until cool then most likely a bad fuel rail pressure sensor. Easy to source from eBay for less than £30 (copy part) now. If it does start and run and will randomly stall then possibly a bad crank sensor actually.
Click to expand...

I'm going through every possibility just now - It's not that it waits until it's cool before it starts - it starts again after 5mins. Engine is still warm. I'm thinking of replacing the Crank Sensor (& Oil Pressure Switch) to see if any of these help. If not then it will be the bigger things like the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, but once it starts, it is fine, so it's more likely a bad sensor.

Thanks again

J
 
Could actually be your fuel pressure relief valve then
 
F6HAD said:
Could actually be your fuel pressure relief valve then
Click to expand...

Would a regulator fail when cold then be fine once the fuel has reached a certain temperature ?

Stalling - 2008 mk7 2.2 cdti

I don't want to start a journey on a parts lottery, so thought I'd ask some experts! Here is my experience of the car stalling and I'm hoping it strikes a chord with someone. 1. Car starts fine 2. Car drives fine 3. When car reaches temperature or soon afterwards, the car stalls with the...
typeaccord.co.uk


Rotting fuel in the tank / fuel lines ?
 
It can yes, they basically have a spring inside them which holds tension to a point to allow fuel pressure to relieve if it exceeds the target pressure. If the spring is knackered it can do weird stuff like this, opening up and jamming at the wrong time. They’re so cheap now it’s worth changing to eliminate it.

www.ebay.co.uk

HONDA CIVIC ACCORD VIII IX CR-V 2.2 CTDI FUEL RAIL PRESSURE RELIEF LIMITER VALVE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HONDA CIVIC ACCORD VIII IX CR-V 2.2 CTDI FUEL RAIL PRESSURE RELIEF LIMITER VALVE at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
I ran the car this morning trying heat it the car up quick to let it reach temp - used 1800revs - and for the first time ever it threw an error when stalling!

P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor

I think I've found the issue! Gonna get it to my mechanic when I get paid! I had the car on the drive ramps yesterday and I can't really get to it myself - gonna get a local mechanic to take a look!

Will keep you posted!
J
 
Good luck, do share the outcome
 
So I took the car to a local garage and told him, "I need the Crankshaft Position Sensor changed". He treated me with contempt - "Yeah bring it down and we'll get it sorted for you". After looking at it he had two outcomes - The first one was 1. There's nothing wrong with your car (the P0335 code cleared itself) and 2. You are leaking Petrol from your fuel tank.

I was livid: I hadn't asked him to do anything other than change the CPS & MY CAR IS A F'N DIESEL! o_O

Outcome - I picked the car up and won't be back!

I then managed to get the car to my normal mechanic 7 miles away. A brilliant guy in Mossend in Scotland - He swapped out the Crankshaft Position Sensor. For anyone looking for the location of the Crankshaft Position Sensor on a CN1 2.2 i-ctdi 2008 mk7, there is an access panel under the Aircon Pump at the front drivers side of the engine. You need to remove the belt, the alternator and the Aircon Pump, then you have access to the panel, remove this and the Crankshaft Position Sensor is there - A pain in the butt! But I managed to get it swapped out for £200 including the Part.

I collected the car today - I managed to get home without issues so I'm hoping it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor, BTW, do you reckon I've said Crankshaft Position Sensor enough?

I'll keep you all posted for reference!

J
 
Thanks for circling back. Keep us posted.
 
[QUOTE="jdm01, post: 266108, member: 16851

BTW, do you reckon I've said Crankshaft Position Sensor enough?

[/QUOTE]

Absolutely
 
stellamon said:
[QUOTE="jdm01, post: 266108, member: 16851

BTW, do you reckon I've said Crankshaft Position Sensor enough?
Click to expand...

Absolutely
[/QUOTE]

I know this will come in useful to someone in the future, so i want to make sure the Google Bots pick it up :);)!
 
Final update - I reckon the car is fixed. I took it on a few drives yesterday - maybe 10 miles each - enough to get it up to temperature and not a single glitch. Today I drove around 40miles this morning, motorway speeds and again, no issues!

Thank goodness! The Crankshaft Position Sensor going bad is a tricky problem. If your car gets to temperature and cuts out without a warning, I would recommend trying the car from cold the next day and sit with the revs around 1800 to 2000 (mine is a diesel), only then did an Engine Code get thrown before the car died! It showed a P0355 error just as it died. Basically the solution presented itself to me on that scenario. Not when it was left to idle then die. Good luck anyone else who gets this problem!

My method was:

1. It must be a fuel issue - changed Fuel Filter
2. No change after fuel filter change (but it needed doing).
3. My next job would have been to replace the fuel rail with a 2nd hand part from fleabay, but I got the error as described above (P0355)
4. P0355 directed me to the Crankshaft Position Sensor, swapped this out which fixed my problem.

I hope this helps!

Now my car is taking 6-8 turns of the engine to fire (it used to 3 or 4 before this issue) - I'm now wondering if the fuel pump needs looked at... Then the headlights, then fog-light, then power steering leak - not forgetting a mechanic's suggestion that my Diesel car is leaking Petrol (FFS!)… It's never-ending! ;)

HondaAccord.png
 
If it’s taking longer to start I would get a mechanic to check on live data with their diagnostic to see if the crank sensor is picking up a clear rotation signal. It might just be the new sensor doesn’t have clear line of sight to the pickup ring and needs adjusting. Was it a genuine dealer part? Did it have a washer or o ring?
 
Final Final update on this in case it helps someone - After a month or so, I went out expecting the 8 turns of the engine and it wouldn't fire, everything was going through my head, "****, the position sensor was bad" "it wasn't installed correctly" etc. Knowing I would need a tow to my local garage, I called the RAC who diagnosed that my battery was only 30% efficient. Now I come to think of it, if I left my car more than 1 day without getting driven, basically the battery needed recharging (oh, did I forget to mention that?). So basically I got a new battery and I've not had any issues since! On anything! I'm still convinced that the crankshaft position sensor was faulty, but just keep in mind, the simplest things can be overlooked! (Yeah I feel like a prat that I didn't spot that!)

Good luck J
 
Lol had you mentioned that your battery regularly needs boosting then we would’ve suggested that first. Diesel engines need some serious cranking power to start. Fingers crossed it’s fixed.
 
jdm01 said:
I then managed to get the car to my normal mechanic 7 miles away. A brilliant guy in Mossend in Scotland - He swapped out the Crankshaft Position Sensor. For anyone looking for the location of the Crankshaft Position Sensor on a CN1 2.2 i-ctdi 2008 mk7, there is an access panel under the Aircon Pump at the front drivers side of the engine. You need to remove the belt, the alternator and the Aircon Pump, then you have access to the panel, remove this and the Crankshaft Position Sensor is there - A pain in the butt! But I managed to get it swapped out for £200 including the Part.

J
Click to expand...
Hi @jdm01. Having a very similar issue to you, detailed in this thread. Short story, I have replaced the fuel filter (genuine Honda) and the fuel pressure relief valve, still having same issue. Already have a new battery and good contacts. Now got a new crankshaft position sensor (well, used, but tests OK so far), but having difficulty seeing how to fit. Can you provide any more info to the above? Did your mechanic access from the top of the engine bay, or maybe via the driver front wheel arch? Do you know if he drained the air con, or just moved the connected pump to the side for access - I suspect the latter!

Many thanks in advance!
 
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