Good evening. I have a question for who will knows or able to help. I have a 2004 Honda 2,2 I-CTDI and yesterday in the Motorway in 160 km/h I noticed a loss of abrupt power and consequently lit a yellow/orange light that looks like the light of the motor. I immobilized the car and I expected a little but the light remained itself inflamed. It was not because low temp of coolant therefore already some time rolling. In this moment the light remains inflamed and from the 2000 RPM does not accelerate more. Someone had some identical situation or can help for that have a plan of when will go to the Honda in the next week that comes? Regards and sorry about my english.
URGENT DOUBT
- Thread starter Athhos
- Start date
Dan Robinson
Grand High Plumber
Welcome to TA .... sounds like a fuel filter problem. When was it last changed and was I a genuine honda one?
crespo
TAF Member
as Dan has said. get your fuel filter changed for a genuine Honda filter.
crolandc
TAF Member
Hi Sergio, what bad timing bud, just at Christmas!! as said above 95% chance of it being fuel filter so hopefully it will be an easy fix 
have a good xmas mate
have a good xmas mate 
ebod
Members
If your ECU is still illuminated and your car will not rev above 2000rpm, then it is in limp mode and needs to be reset. I can clear faults from an application on my Andriod phone when connected by bluetooth to an OBDII adapter.
I have never tried it, but I've heard in some cases its possible to clear the fault codes by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 10-15mins.
The only time I've ever forced limp mode in mine is by deliberately unplugging the MAF sensor and starting up the car. I never knew a restricted fuel supply ( blocked filter ) would trip the engine check light and make it limp, I thought it would just cause it to hic-up/hesitate.
The only way you will know for sure is it get the fault code checked out. So if you are in a hurry, then you need to go to a dealer.
If you can wait, then these are a cheap way to read fault codes and live data from your cars ECU
http://viewitem.eim.ebay.pt/Android-Torque-Car-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-CAN-BUS/110761891151/item
I have never tried it, but I've heard in some cases its possible to clear the fault codes by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 10-15mins.
The only time I've ever forced limp mode in mine is by deliberately unplugging the MAF sensor and starting up the car. I never knew a restricted fuel supply ( blocked filter ) would trip the engine check light and make it limp, I thought it would just cause it to hic-up/hesitate.
The only way you will know for sure is it get the fault code checked out. So if you are in a hurry, then you need to go to a dealer.
If you can wait, then these are a cheap way to read fault codes and live data from your cars ECU
http://viewitem.eim.ebay.pt/Android-Torque-Car-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-CAN-BUS/110761891151/item
Dan Robinson
Grand High Plumber
If the fault is cleared it, Limp mode should sort itself out after a couple of restarts.
Hello friends. Many thanks to all answers given. For all i read i think too it's the fuel filter, may be. Tomorrow i will speak with mechanic and see about it. Anyone sells devices to connetct to pc and see codes and sintoms?
For you all,
Merry Christmas.
S.L.
For you all,
Merry Christmas.
S.L.
try ebay for OBD2 reader either usb or bluetooth. these are very simple to use and should meet your needs.
I purchased this bluetooth Elm 327 My link which enabled me to clear the stored error codes and view live telemetry via my laptop. I'm not sure if the usb version allows any more features but the bluetooth one is apparently compatible with the Android phone app Torque, which enables the phone to view limited live data from the car.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for your help. I left my Honda at the mechanic,
codes P1236 and P1401 something like injection and EGR :blink: :shock:
Hoppe it's nothing serious...
And how is your car now, what did they do to resolve it?
Regards.
ebod
Members
I've Google'd those codes and it looks like your EGR valve is jammed open. Is suspect the P1236 code is a consequencial result of the open EGR and will go away when the EGR is fixed.
You might be lucky and the EGR might just need cleaning. But if the valve actuator has failed then these valves are very expensive.
You might be lucky and the EGR might just need cleaning. But if the valve actuator has failed then these valves are very expensive.
Sergio, drop me a PM. We offer an EGR DELETE service as part of a remap. For Portugal, you could benefit from a File Only service and flash the software yourself with a laptop and a tool such as the Galletto 1260 - available from ebay.
CJM
Dr. Diesel
P1236 is boost pressure higher than expected and P1401 is Egr insufficient flow.
First things to check are the Vac lines i.e that non have split/cracked and are leaking or indeed come off.
Fingers crossed that it is a vac line.
After that check the connections on the boost control solenoid (it has two vac lines coming from it and is located near the rear of the engine, RH side near the top) if the car is a facelift there is an identical solenoid further towards the front of the engine, which controls the EGR the connections need checking on that also)
It could be the boost control solenoid or the EGR one (if facelift) but in all honesty it would need proper Vac diagnostics to verify whether a particular solenoid is faulty.
Failing this you would need to get the turbo checked out, but fingers crossed it is one of the Vac lines.
Good luck
I saw P1401 with another error on a members car last week (Abdul), so we cleared the errors and switched the EGR OFF. One week on, his car is better than ever. It really sounds like a stuck EGR valve. Bear in mind a stuck EGR valve will cause all sorts of other problems incl boost.
Hello. I still not have my car back : (
It seems that the turbo cames later than it should. The EGR was cleaned and adjacent piping. I do not know if the turbo have received dust or not. They continue making diagnoses ...
What bul..
ebod
Members
The OP said its a 2004 so the EGR is not vacuum controlled.
CJM
Dr. Diesel
The OP said its a 2004 so the EGR is not vacuum controlled.
My bad,
It is best to check out the P1236 code first and check that the boost control diaphragm operates by doing some Vac tests, if the diaphragm operates then the boost control solenoid is the likely candidate, (***uming no vac leaks have been found and the Vac pump is operating correctly).
It would be much easier if you have access to an HDS unit, or take it to a dealer, they can check the turbo boost and give an EGR test, which would give a good indicator as to where the fault lies.
Always worth just checking for loose electrical connections on both the boost control solenoid and the EGR.
To the OP,
What is the mileage on the car?
Has the car had any work done recently, where something could have been disturbed ?
If it comes to needing an new EGR, because of electrical failure then get a reconditioned one off Ebay or a breaker.
CJM
Dr. Diesel
When it happened was there any unusual noises or anything ?
Have you heard anything else from your mechanic ?
Maybe worth him clearing the codes and taking it for a run again, now you know the EGR is clear, then noting which code appears first, or indeed whether both codes re-appear.
Do you know whether he just cleaned the EGR valve or the pipe as well ?
Was the error about boost the same code or a different one?
Dan Robinson
Grand High Plumber
Just cleared a fuel filter code on mine, and saw a P1236 code lurking there too .
Cleared it and will wait and see. Gonna have a blast into London this afternoon with it. Leaving the OBD reader plugged in to see what the EGR and Boost readings do enroute.
Fingers crossed.
.Cleared it and will wait and see. Gonna have a blast into London this afternoon with it. Leaving the OBD reader plugged in to see what the EGR and Boost readings do enroute.
Fingers crossed.