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VSA fault Elimination

freddofrog said:
The ESM says (VSA OFF Switch Test)

Remove the VSA OFF switch from the switch panel

Disconnect the VSA OFF switch 5P connector

Check for continuity between the VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminal No. 1 and No. 2. There should be continuity when the switch is pressed, and no continuity when the switch is released.

Check for continuity between the VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminal No. 3 and No. 4. There should be continuity at all times
Click to expand...
OK, bridged the Pins 3 and 4 on the VSA switch and tried again, no change.

I did download the manual from the dropbox site but have not had a chance as yet to see where the wiring diagram is. It would be good to know where the two wires run from/to in case there is a fusible link somewhere, and to determine why the switch may have failed in such a way.

IMG_0665.JPG
IMG_0667.JPG
 
Channel Hopper said:
OK, bridged the Pins 3 and 4 on the VSA switch and tried again, no change.

It would be good to know where the two wires run from/to in case there is a fusible link somewhere, and to determine why the switch may have failed in such a way.
Click to expand...
what makes you think the switch has failed ?
 
Check for continuity between the VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminal No. 3 and No. 4. There should be continuity at all times

Pins 3 and 4 do not have any continuity between them on either switch state.

I did check the voltages present on each of the wires beforehand and only Pin 2 connection is 'live' at around 11V when the ignition is on.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Check for continuity between the VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminal No. 3 and No. 4. There should be continuity at all times

Pins 3 and 4 do not have any continuity between them on either switch state.

I did check the voltages present on each of the wires beforehand and only Pin 2 connection is 'live' at around 11V when the ignition is on.
Click to expand...
There's a built-in bulb in the switch (pins 3 and 4 go to the brightness control system) ....hence "continuity at all times"

If the bulb has "gone" it won't make any difference to the operation of the VSA

The "switch" itself is a toggle action similar to the CAPS LOCK action on most keyboards in that the switch itself does not latch, but acts as an on/off indication to an "intelligent system". In this case, the "intelligent system" is the Gauge Control Module which sends a message over the Honda proprietary CAN to the VSA, saying "cease VSA actions" or "continue VSA actions".

And before you ask, the answer is "no the fault is not in the Gauge Control Module, the fault is in the VSA itself".
 
freddofrog said:
There's a built-in bulb in the switch (pins 3 and 4 go to the brightness control system) ....hence "continuity at all times"

If the bulb has "gone" it won't make any difference to the operation of the VSA

The "switch" itself is a toggle action similar to the CAPS LOCK action on most keyboards in that the switch itself does not latch, but acts as an on/off indication to an "intelligent system". In this case, the "intelligent system" is the Gauge Control Module which sends a message over the Honda proprietary CAN to the VSA, saying "cease VSA actions" or "continue VSA actions".

And before you ask, the answer is "no the fault is not in the Gauge Control Module, the fault is in the VSA itself".
Click to expand...
Then I will remove the temporary link I installed earlier. I haven't been working on the car after dark so hadn't 'clicked' on the need for additional wiring just to illuminate the switch.

As long as there are no other components between the switch and the module then I will have exhausted the fault finding, so it's time to scrape the skin off the knuckles again
 
Channel Hopper said:
Then I will remove the temporary link I installed earlier.
Click to expand...
I hope it hasn't caused any damage to the brightness controls


Channel Hopper said:
As long as there are no other components between the switch and the module
Click to expand...
which module
 
freddofrog said:
I hope it hasn't caused any damage to the brightness controls




which module
Click to expand...
The thing behind the offside headlight. The deliberate short under the switch contacts hasn't affected anything, though I could not see any illumination of the 'VSA' button markings last night, can anyone verify theirs does light up (I ***ume it comes on with the headlights).
 
With the following set of 'flowcharts' in mind,

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g462/btg_pics/Accord/VSA_Control.jpg

is there any drain hole on the module or is it a case of undoing the pipes and catching what comes out with a rag before removal ?

Many of the units available on the usual auction sites have been cut out with the unions left in place, has anyone that has taken a chance on one of these found any trouble with threads and /or corrosion or is this unlikely to be an issue ?

Anything else I should be wary of when removing, or a minimal list of nearby items to be moved out of the way would be appreciated, I would like if at all possible to keep the bumper in situ.
 
Channel Hopper said:
The thing behind the offside headlight. The deliberate short under the switch contacts hasn't affected anything, though I could not see any illumination of the 'VSA' button markings last night, can anyone verify theirs does light up (I ***ume it comes on with the headlights).
Click to expand...
the switch don't connect to that, read #34
 
Not directly of course, though if the VSA module is sending out an activation code to the Gauge Control Module when the VSA system is triggered, I would ***ume the action of pressing the switch on the driver's right would commence some chat between the module and the ABS/VSA box of tricks in order to reset the motor/pumps, or continue to illuminate the lights in the clocks if a fault does exist in the system.

Anyway I confirmed there is no lighting of the switch regardless of the engine running or lights earlier, if there is a bulb inside then it is defective.

Where in the car is the gauge module btw, I might have a quick cleanup of the connector(s) if they are easy to get to.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Not directly of course, though if the VSA module is sending out an activation code to the Gauge Control Module when the VSA system is triggered, I would ***ume the action of pressing the switch on the driver's right would commence some chat between the module and the ABS/VSA box of tricks in order to reset the motor/pumps, or continue to illuminate the lights in the clocks if a fault does exist in the system.

Anyway I confirmed there is no lighting of the switch regardless of the engine running or lights earlier, if there is a bulb inside then it is defective.

Where in the car is the gauge module btw, I might have a quick cleanup of the connector(s) if they are easy to get to.
Click to expand...
The way you wrote that it sounds like there's a private party going on LOL

The Gauge Control Module is there to work the gauges according to information it gets from other modules, and to inform other modules when some switches have been operated by the driver.

The VSA acts independently at switch-on, it is automatically in working mode. If the VSA detects any faults then it sends a message to the Gauge Control Module to turn the light on.

When you press the VSA switch, the Gauge Control Module sends a message to the VSA module that the switch has been pressed.

No matter what you try to do, the VSA in your car is faulty, there is nothing else ***ociated with the fault, the fault is in the VSA, the VSA module needs to be repaired.
 
One other member of the forum confirmed the issues he had cleared up - allegedly - following a cleanup of wiring loom connections. I would like to explore this fully before I get the HIM/HDS eliminated (hopefully before Monday) and well before attempting replacing the ATE block.

Where is the gauge control module situated in the Tourer ?
 
Same as the saloon, it's behind and built into the instrument panel (hence "Gauge Control Module")
 
Sorry , just got back to the car.


Does anyone have a pin out for the connector that goes to the ABS module in the i-ctdi ?

Whilst I have taken the block off earlier something still doesn't look right with the way it lines up.
 
47-pin connections (for CN2 , petrol models may be different)

3, 5, 7, 28, 30 connect to steering angle sensor

6, 24, 25, 29, 31 connect to sensor cluster (Yaw Rate/Lateral Acceleration)

45, 46 connect to FL sensor

33, 34 connect to FR sensor

36, 37 connect to RL sensor

42, 43 connect to RR sensor

2 connects to DLC

1 connects to fuse 17 under-hood box

32 connects to fuse 18 under-hood box

4 connects to fuse 18 under-dash box

11, 15 CAN connection to Gauge Control Module and ECM

16 , 47 connect to ground
 
I found this for the CM2 (uploaded about a year ago for another thread)

hi-res , click to enlarge (note the significant differences in pin allocations)

CM2_VSA_47P.jpg
 
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