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What have you done to your Accord lately?

As well as the above some things I've done since the new year are Osram LED dipped and high beams, replaced blue screenwash cap with black jdm style, replaced driver's side driveshaft with new Honda shaft ***embly, replaced parking sensor switch LED, replaced driver's door glass outer weatherstrip, new engine oil and filter, and fitted newly refurbished 18" deltas. I've also got new LCA ball joints being installed as well as passenger side inner CV joint rebuild happening on the 13th.
 
Mate I know the pain. I was getting knocking front left a couple of months ago, so I got the car up in the air and discovered the left tie rod end had lots of play and the boot was leaking. Replaced both sides (Meyle) the following weekend and the noise was still there. In my haste I hadn’t noticed it was the upper control arm doing the knocking, so I replaced both sides the weekend after (Febi), then discovered that the LCA bush right side had also just failed. Damn these potholes!

Ive just decided to live with it till what ever is rattling/humming falls off, then fix it
 
Changed the alternator yesterday after some odd noises under the bonnet (and the battery came on at the weekend.

Now I have an airbag light appearing.
 
the electrical systems on accords are very sensitive, the tolerances on aftermarket alternators are much wider, so fitting one can cause electrical issues in other systems
 
the electrical systems on accords are very sensitive, the tolerances on aftermarket alternators are much wider, so fitting one can cause electrical issues in other systems


This is the one I bought on a whim, it is identical in every way, except the pulley diameter.


Since I have the original serpentine system, there is one point where two of the belt runs are exceedingly close.
 
It appears my work has been rewarded, another years MOT in the bag. Advisories on the suspension pins/mounts caused by corrosion/non-excessive movement, plus weepage in the steering reservior, though I did over fill the reservoir a couple of months ago without realising. But is it is same as per last year's test, so I can live with those.

I might crack open a bottle of something later.

Still a happy bunny.

And.......... passed for another year.

Advisories on the headlights (as usual) but apart from a failing tyre tread, nothing else cropped up.

I've already opened a bottle.

Cheers !
 
New tyres (all season), redone valve lash (last idiot did them: IN too loose EX basically 0), new gasket for the valve cover, new drop links (555), arb bushes, both solenoid gaskets, surface rust repair, aux belt and pulley. And I have to say for the 6 month I've had it feels like I just bought it yesterday. I love the car.
 
Snapped an injector bolt... No one (no professionals that is ! ) in Edinburgh willing to touch it, becoming a nightmare ( it's been 4 months!!!!) Got a mechanic to try and remove it ...now I've an oversized , not round hole. Call places and they don't show up. don't answer emails, don't answer texts.... Frustrating!
 
we got another one! his & hers now
wheels and grill are temporary, gf wants to respray it in pirates black pearl after sorting the rust and dings on it, spoiler being added. either mugen or oem
needs some front suspension tlc(squeaky top hats and separated lca bushings) and sand blasting of the rear undercarriage before epoxy and undercoat

drives great, but feels a bit more nervous than the wagon, must be the shorter wheelbase making it "twitchy"

years have passed, some stuff has happened. pirates black is a no go, like most purples it ends up looking brown without the right lighting conditions to make it pop
turns out what made it twitchy was(yes I'm not ****ting you) the front subframe bolts being no more than finger tight, so it had very "dynamic" driving characteristics. previous owner didn't know about it because he essentially had it mothballed for a year before selling it, not really using it himself
~80hrs of wrenching, blasting, fabrication, welding and dressing, the rear is as good as it's going to get without new old stock panels welding in or 100 more hours of fabrication with metal shaping tools - had a good source @amayama but all parts needed turned out to be from dead and no longer updated stock lists so it didn't pan out, and I had to make everything
  • kw v1 front and rear
  • h&r front and rear sway bars
  • full front and rear suspension rebuild with new front wishbones and complete rear multilink replacement
  • rear subframe and crash bar professionally sandblasted and epoxied with some kind of fancy electrostatic application method
  • entire rear end media blasted with 0.4-0.6 garnet - sherwin williams industrial epoxy coating, so thick it makes a 1.7 walcom choke, new pu seam sealer then rubberized undercoating
  • mugen type 2 3 piece spoiler
  • fury grille from rising tuning
  • 2nd hand front and rear bumpers
  • ebc braided hoses
the last stretch of sandblasting, epoxy, sealer and undercoating, suspension refresh and coilover install were done in maybe 4(I lost track) days + some nights on the lift at home to get it back on its feet

then, in the midst of summer holidays with the workshop shut, the two of us began stripping it down for a full respray inside out excluding boot and engine bay. 6 days from 8am till 10pm start to finish and you get this

excuse some of the mess, we were working very long hours, and days merged with one another

color is b90p - supersonic blue pearl, found on some 90s hondas like integras etc. the original b536p looks so dull, almost black in comparison

todo list
enkei t6s in matte silver
alignment
uk o/s taillight for double reverse light symmetry
tucked led bar, maybe
fog lights
sound deadening and insulation
decent audio system

as for my wagon? I've got new wheels and tires I guess.. enkei t6r 18x8.5 et38, michelin ps5 245/40/18. no rubbing in front on h&r springs. can't say for sure with rear if they were stock, mine are cut and flared
618U1Oq.jpeg
 
New power steering hose from pump to rack on 2.2 diesel. Very fiddly and messy job but got there in the end.
I know this is a bit of a thread revival, but I need to do this. Any tips for getting the old one out? I'm guessing the screw connectors into the rack were a pain?
 
Lately I've done the front main 3 times, hope this time it's fixed, did new pistons on the rear calipers and pads, Tein coilovers and some rust repair due to previous accident damage or something done incorrectly.
 
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