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Why do Tourer rear pads never fit out of the box?

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Fitted a new set of rear pads to the Tourer not long before the lockdown but barely driven it since until last weekend when I did a 200 mile trip. When I got home I noticed the offside rear wheel was very hot and indicative of the brakes binding.

Had a look yesterday and pads were free (already ground the edges off when fitted), the sliders were free, the piston was free and the handbrake was not binding so at a bit of a loss. Then happened to look at the back of the inner pad and noticed a dimple that has been half squashed and with a bit of investigation worked out this lined up exactly with the edge of the piston and was causing the pad to be pushed over at an angle and hence binding. Ground the dimple off and tried it again and all fixed but the heat had damaged the pads so had to get another set.

Fitted these last night and again had to grind the edges off to allow the pads to move and now also ground the dimples off to stop the above problem.

Why are all rear pads the same? Anybody fitted genuine Honda pads? Are these the same?

Some images for reference.
 

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I changed the rear pads on mine a couple of years ago and don't recall having issues fitting them. Only one pad out of the four was in need of replacing though.

One thing I did find after noticing there was binding (before the replacing of the pads) was pushing the caliper back into place as fast as possble (using a huge plumber's wrench) which would have forced the stale hydraulic fluid back into the pipes, diluting it with the good stuff.
 

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One thing I did find after noticing there was binding (before the replacing of the pads) was pushing the caliper back into place as fast as possble (using a huge plumber's wrench) which would have forced the stale hydraulic fluid back into the pipes, diluting it with the good stuff.
I think the *proper" way to do this is to open the bleed valve and push the fluid out as the piston is pushed back but I've never done this.
 

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Yes, but not if the nipples are corroded.

Touchwood the LHS binding has not returned so I may have found a cheap (ie free) fix.
 

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You won’t have this issue with genuine pads although they are quite a bit more expensive. I think the issue is that little extra lug which is designed for other hondas that have a notch in the piston for it to line up to. I had the same issue on my wife’s FRV with certain pads and I also ground off the lug which helps. Also worth slightly grinding the pad down so it’s less of a tight fit in the carrier, but don’t take too much off or they’ll slide around and make a horrible clunking sound.. ask me how I know!!
 

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You won’t have this issue with genuine pads although they are quite a bit more expensive. I think the issue is that little extra lug which is designed for other hondas that have a notch in the piston for it to line up to. I had the same issue on my wife’s FRV with certain pads and I also ground off the lug which helps. Also worth slightly grinding the pad down so it’s less of a tight fit in the carrier, but don’t take too much off or they’ll slide around and make a horrible clunking sound.. ask me how I know!!
Yeah already learnt to do the edges but now know to do the lugs as well !
 
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