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yeah the 12v low beam circuit feeds the ballasts, you take the cable that plugs into the internal "harness" for the h1 bulb, plug it into the ballast and it just works obviously you won't have auto headlight leveling but eh, aim them right and you shouldn't have too many complaints

inspect wiring near the brackets, 7th gen is probably worse for this where it mounts on the upper wishbone but it may be worth a shot if it's intermittent and you can log wheel speed without dips or spikes white wire on mine was split/splitting on both fronts without any clues from just looking...

https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637204655/self-adjusting-clutch-tool I have one of these, fits 100% but check with mechanics locally, maybe someone can lend you one on a weekend? It's kinda steep for a once in a lifetime job, but I need it since we have 3 diesel hondas can be had for £100 less...

straight from the electronic service manual, I guess it gets a little confusing because they've split the tightening instructions into two, with step 1 being torques across all 10 bolts in order, step 2 only being angle tightening but then there's 3 steps for angles, and in total you're doing 40...

I have not had to do this particular job, but this kind of tightening torque is not unheard of, but you may need a longer breaker bar for the angle steps you using new or used bolts? I see that you say 110 degrees of angle but better to double check than not, even though the angle difference is...

I'm just a curious amateur like the rest of us lol petrol dimensions are sligthly different but the couplings are in the right places, and they are the correct size. but beyond that it's uncharted territory as far as operating pressure goes, I don't know the specific differences

unless you have a really stubborn circlip or crusty splines, yeah they just pop out. swift and decisive prying/hammering works better than trying to ease it off

apparently, the operating conditions for the valve are quite specific, below 5c ambient and water temp below 75c, and it only does this when left to its own devices, not when the climate control panel is set to ac on/ac off the gist of it is that the wire splicing disables the bypass valve's...

good luck :)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008941656020.html these are a thing now, but no one in the integrated head unit megathread on clubhondaspirit have tried it yet, they're the ones who figured out which head units can be used on the diesel with a modified harness these are proven to work...

I can tell you that the ESM replacement procedure does not call for engine removal and fluid drain bar gear oil. I can print out the procedure to a pdf for you but I recommend this excellent video as reference. the only thing he skips bar torque specs is pressure plate preload with a sac tool

no problem I paid £579 ex vat for the kit with a LUK dual mass flywheel, coxmotorparts sells the kit without dmf for about £300 It's probably fair to say that the LUK set 100% identical to the OE honda set since they're the OE supplier, but if it's anything like other pattern parts vsOE parts...

gallery here

yeah, I'll snap you some pictures of one this weekend, got an oe honda set laid in the garage waiting for install

yeah, 22105-PGE-325, revised pressure plate

the embossed acura logo is the only difference between the two sets of calipers, the acura rl is a honda legend and vice versa I can't say here nor there whether you'll need a larger brake master, but you should definitely consider it, as they are sized according to the application. for example...

corrosion, galvanic or otherwise is your only concern. rear calipers on the cl7 euro r are cast aluminium and it's unlikely they fail any more or less than the cl9 cast iron variant bmw and audi have been making cast aluminium spindles/uprights/control arms for 20+ years, it's not a problem...

did you perform other work on the engine at the same time? not critical of your method, just curious because I'm doing this job at some point this year and I can't imagine a world where it would be easier to remove the engine harness, ac compressor, ps pump, catalytic converter, fuel lines etc...

thanks, and good luck :)

if I ever get around to it I'll probably black out all the interior chrome, other than that I think the 7th gen still looks pretty modern I like the switchable amber idea, see a lot of volvos and bmws here with chromed ambers in their park/drls and it can look pretty smart