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7th Gen new aux belt & Alternator DIY

Cliffordski said:
No it's only an issue with the earlier diesels.
Okay thanks.

Does anyone have a link to the belt that 100% fits a 2.4 type s accord? Or will I just go to honda?
 
Just a quick thank you for this guide, very helpful, my alternator was totally goosed & making an awful racket as well as not charging, but Euro Car parts had a replacement 130amp one for £188 plus it was in stock so no waiting, i bought the shorter belt (7PK1785) & removed the idler pulley, car now running fine, & I'm back upsetting neighbours with my tunes......

Thanks again.
Wozza
 
Afternoon all,

I am half way through an alternator replacement job, and had a question about the routing, I have a 06 Facelift, does the routing in the early pictures hold true for them?

Thanks
 
Just like to say thanks for the guide, had to replace my alternator this weekend and this guide made it so much easier than it could have been.
 
Fitted the shortened belt on my new one today. Had to sacrifice a 14mm spanner and cut the head off so I could get a bar over it! Also struggled to get enough movement in the tensioner to fit the new belt so I put a jack under the sump, undid the top engine mount and pushed it to one side and then was much easier.
 
Hi all, looking to change the long belt for the short belt on my 2007 2.2 i-ctdi exec....after reading various threads can someone confirm 7pk1785 is the right "short" belt?
 
Hi all, looking to change the long belt for the short belt on my 2007 2.2 i-ctdi exec....after reading various threads can someone confirm 7pk1785 is the right "short" belt?
 
Med83 said:
Hi all, looking to change the long belt for the short belt on my 2007 2.2 i-ctdi exec....after reading various threads can someone confirm 7pk1785 is the right "short" belt?
Yes.7PK1785 is the shorter belt - I have just ordered one with a new clutch pulley (Managed to get both the pulley and the belt for £50.00 on ebay)

Honda part details are here: http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/genuine-honda-accord-22-diesel-serpentine-alternator-belt-revised20042008-p-4264.html
 
Yes 1785 is the correct length, I got a Continental 1788 which is 3mm longer and approx 1/2 the price of the Genuine Bando one.
Gates tend to squeal more than Conti which is why I opted for the Conti.
 
Just a quick question.
Does the idler pulley have to come off as looking at the routing of the new belt it doesn't seem to get in the way and it doesn't look like it makes the routing of the new belt any easier with it gone.
Maybe I'm missing something.
Cheers.
Bri.
 
Take it off, its not needed and its an easy and fast job to remove it.
 
Thanks for the feedback edgeoftime and Bounder,I'd done it by the time I'd read your posts.
I had read and re read the diy guides so it was a breeze in the end.
Taking the Idler pulley off made putting the new shorter belt on a bit easier.
I used the Gates one.
My car sounds a lot quieter now and seems to pull a bit better from a stand.
If the alternaror bearings have been worn I can't hear anything so I'll just play it by ear for now.
The clutch pulley seemed nice and smooth but I think it is that that is making a little whirring type sound.
As for tools ha ha ha ha ha ha ha here's what I used.
A Teng 14 mm modified with a butane blow torch and a length of metal I found in the shed
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN-c-pwLBgKpM3Fye4OiN12xpi7zmIaD0u9XJH4
I might do the gearbox oil now or clean the egr out.
Cheers.
Bri.
 
Have just done this job, thanks to this excellent thread & others on here. From my experience, a few things that might make it easier (hope that's OK to add)


1. When removing/refitting alternator, as well as radiator shroud & coolant tank removal, it is helpful to undo the air conditioning pipe clip (front left corner of engine bay) this allows the pipe to be encouraged gently further out of the way.

2. Entire job can be done with car on ground, wheels on. For rerouting the new belt, just a little patience and a length of dowel will get it over the lower pulleys.

3. If using a ground down 14mm socket welded to some flat bar steel to lever the tensioner, when refitting the belt, 14mm x 3mm is not strong enough and will bend. I ended up welding two lengths of this steel

4. Cut the old belt off and pull out. Quick & easy.
 
... Thought I'd update... Purchased a 7pk1785 off good old Amazon and ventured a quick go (sorry for the gap in the post, been kept occupied with hospital so did this change just before xmas...

I removed the top neck of the water filler cap and loosened a coupla pipe brackets.... bought extra long spanner set from Machine Mart, and although quite a lot of tug was needed, did manage to loosen the old belt enough to remove. Took the redundant pulley off and threaded the new belt starting with bottom pulley first and following counter clockwise.... it worked on 3rd attempt... (damn that tensioner is strong!)

Result... less noise from my engine bay... (still a bit noisy though so thinking alternator pulley / bearings may be on their last (felt okish when I took the belt off though).... Or worst fear... the Dealer fudged the part about the chain having been done recently.... <_<

What's a good "guesstimate" on chain replacement cost?

PS.... A very large Thank you to all of you posting about the belt change. I for one am extremely grateful for the advice and pics etc... :lol:
 
Thanks for sharing, I'm attempting the replacement myself - had to admit defeat at first though as I didn't have the right tool and dropped a spanner in the end that took ages to find under the cover :D phew

I know right tools should be in place first before starting any job (read ahead of how to's!) but just wanted to try the method with two spanners attached into each that some people seem to use effectively but didn't work well in diesel as it's just too tight.

A flat spanner probably will work easier. I won't give up easily as I want to improve my DIY mechanic skills :)
I ordered now a 5 pc extra long reach spanner set from Neilson @ £ 20 with 40cm length, should hopefully work as it will reach long enough out of the engine bay (otherwise easy to put a pipe over it). Worthwhile to invest and expand set of tools for the money saved on the job.

FYI - However I noticed on my 2005 Diesel a 14mm won't fit, only 17mm one! (tried even 16mm).
 
Hello everyone, I need to change my aux belt. I have taken it off and it measures at 167cm on the inside, every website I go on recommends the 7PK1760 which would be 176cm??

My car is a Honda Accord 2003 2.0 Petrol / K20A6.
 
paniczhrabi said:
7pk1760 belt is what you need to buy for yours 2.0.
I ordered the 7pk1685 belt and it fits perfectly, it was about 1cm longer than the original.
 
paniczhrabi said:
Longer ? 1685 is shorter then 1760.
Sorry I meant the 7pk1685 was slightly longer than the original aux cable by a centimetre approx. The 7pk1760 would have been about 10cm longer.
 
hi everyone,

sorry but i need to confirm this as tried 4/5 diff belts last saturday including 7PK1784..... but the mechanic couldnt get it on. went to pick up 7PK1785 yesterday from Euro car parts but they said 1784 should do the job as there is hardly any difference between the two and he gave me 1790 in the end, which i think is going to be long?

could anyone please confirm if 7PK1785 is 100% the right part number for a:

Honda Accord 2.2i-CTDI (05 Model) 2005?

​many thanks all.
 
hi everyone,

sorry but i need to confirm this as tried 4/5 diff belts last saturday including 7PK1784..... but the mechanic couldnt get it on. went to pick up 7PK1785 yesterday from Euro car parts but they said 1784 should do the job as there is hardly any difference between the two and he gave me 1790 in the end, which i think is going to be long?

could anyone please confirm if 7PK1785 is 100% the right part number for a:

Honda Accord 2.2i-CTDI (05 Model) 2005?

​many thanks all.
 
Its not a part number, it refers to a belt spec, 7PK means there is seven ribs on the belt width and 1785 means length.
As I said I used a 1788 and it was fine, the extra length is not much and the tensioner will easily accomodate the difference in a 1790.Its only 5mm longer than a 1785.
 
After putting up with a squealing belt on my 2005 Accord Tourer for too long I decided to buy a new longbelt (1760 mm) and do the removal / renewal - and this is before I came across this very informative thread. It was a bit of a struggle but with the ***istance of a friend the belt was renewed yesterday. The old belt came off without any difficulty, but I left a bit of skin behind in threading the new belt around the various pulleys. I had the ***istance of a friend and fashioned a "cheater" bar out of a length of pipe together with a 14 mm hex head spanner with the open end ground down to fit into the pipe - this to take the tension off the tensioner pulley. After some frustration and some choice language the belt was fitted. I haven't driven the car since this was done so I can't say if the squealing has stopped. Fingers crossed!
The biggest lesson - look on the TypeAccord forum first of all before doing any work - it could save a lot of time, frustration and skin!

The step by step account is excellent and invaluable - just wish I'd had the foresight to check beforehand. I'll know next time.
 
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