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8th Gen DIY: i-DTEC Manual Gearbox Oil Change

apintofmild

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Honda recommend the gearbox oil be replaced every 75,000 miles (120,000 km) or 8 years. Mines only done 60K, but as the sun was out (and I had the stuff in the garage) I thought I’d do it a bit early.

You’re going to need 2.2 litres of MTF3 gearbox oil. Chances are you’re only going to do this job once (twice at most), during your ownership so don’t skimp by using cheapo 3rd party fluid.

You’re also going to need three aluminium crush washers. The sizes are shown in case you want to try and get them from your local motor factors rather than Honda.

8thMTF_Washers_zpsjimixpwi.jpg


In addition to the usual 8mm and 10mm sockets, you’re going to need a long socket extension bar, a funnel with a long spout (or a standard one with about a foot of hosepipe pushed over the end) and a square plug key. I imagine you really need a 10mm square key, but my imperial 3/8” key worked just fine, and you might get away with a 3/8” drive ratchet with no socket on the end.

8thMTF_SocketKey_zpspgcdaefk.jpg
 
What follows is what I did, and it worked. I’m not suggesting this is the best or only way.


Apply the handbrake hard. Chock the rear wheels and raise the car. Place axle stands somewhere they're not going to move, and that you can reach from the side of the car without venturing underneath when only supported by the jack.


8thMTF_Stands_zpsdpnieocb.jpg


Using a cross point screwdriver remove the 7 screws holding the aluminium under-tray in place.


8thMTF_Undertray_zpsl5dqjfp3.jpg


Looking from the front of the car, the gearbox is on the right. Two of the three bolts you’re after are to the right of the exhaust pipe. The lower one is the drain plug, the one higher up is the fill level plug.


8thMTF_PlugsLower_zpsrifyc8ah.jpg



The third plug, the filler, is on the top of the gearbox. If you look between the fusebox and the air cleaner you can see the square socket, but you can’t get any tools onto it (and mine was pretty tight).


8thMTF_PlugsUpper_zpsyodmzqem.jpg
 
To gain access to the gearbox filler plug the air cleaner box needs to be removed.

Begin by disconnecting the MAF sensor plug and use a small screwdriver / snipe nose pliers to unclip the cable loom


8thMTF_Disconnect_zpsopcr6jpp.jpg



Loosen the clip on the air intake hose and wriggle the hose off the air cleaner end. Undo the single (captive) bolt that secures the air cleaner ***embly


8thMTF_AirFixings_zps7ljvpbt5.jpg



Prise the hose off the input side and lift out the air cleaner ***embly by pulling on the two grommet and pin mounts. In this picture the top has been removed from the air cleaner and filter removed. This gives a little more room to work, but isn’t actually necessary. You now have easy access to the filler plug. Note the rag stuffed in the end of the intake hose –I didn’t want any tools or screws ending up in there ;)


8thMTF_AirBoxRemoval_zpsp7lzkn5d.jpg



With your container underneath, remove the drain and fill level plugs.


8thMTF_DrainOil_zpsnohr7v3u.jpg



If you’re lucky enough to be using a vehicle lift or have a pit the chances are your car is level. Mine was on stands at the front only, so it needed lowering before refilling (and the ensure as much old oil as possible comes out). Bit of a faff this bit as the car will need lifting again to refit the under tray afterwards. I’m using an old washing up bowl to catch the oil, which is shallow enough to fit under the car when off the stands.


With the car level and the gearbox empty re-fit the drain plug with a new washer and tighten to 39Nm.

Remove the filler plug from the top of the gearbox and use your long spout funnel to pour in the first two litres of MTF3 as quick as you like. After two litres, add 50ml at a time slowly and keep a close eye on the fill level hole underneath. Once oil runs out you’re full.


8thMTF_Refill_zpshx31fccx.jpg



Refit the level plug (with new washer) and tighten to 12Nm. Refit the fill plug (with new washer) and tighten to 44Nm.


Refit the air cleaner ***embly not forgetting to reconnect the MAF sensor.

Refit the under tray and you’re done.


Whilst colour isn’t necessarily a good guide to remaining service life, I can’t help but think clean oil is better oil.


8thMTF_OldNew_zpsiajp7oyn.jpg



All that remains is to dispose of your old oil responsibly and put the kettle on.


8thMTF_Dispose_zps1rw9kjqk.jpg
 
Fantastic write up Matt, thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing.
 
Hi Matt,
used your "how to" to replace my gearbix oil today. It was a great help having the guide when you haven't done this job before.

I put 2 litres of new oil in and when I undid the oil level bolt, oil started to trickle out, so I screwed it back and called it job done.

I can only think that all of the original oil did not drain out even though the car was level and I had left it draining for 20 minutes.

Cheers, Pete.
 
Until there's a solution to Photobucket's recent change of use policy, I have this (and most of my other DIYs) as PDFs if anyone wants them.
You'll have to PM me an email address to send them to...
 
Owing to recent changes in Photobucket’s image hosting service some of the information contained in this thread may have been lost.


Until I’ve found a suitable alternative image hosting service, and the time to re-write the post I have uploaded the original as a PDF here:


http://jmp.sh/PBa7fUu


Note that this is also uses a free hosting service, which may change its T&Cs in time, or go off line entirely. Until then though, it may help someone…
 
Many Thanks for this info Matt :D Sorted it today no worries
 
I now own the Autobox version & this holds 8 ltrs I change every 20000 miles as it's a Taxi & only 2.6 litre can be removed per oil change. Only Hondas own ATF is used at 150000 miles all is fine.

My manual box I changed every 50000 miles if I remember & that did 250000 miles. Again no issues so many failures on gearboxes are due to the oil never being changed most garages don't bother on a main service so I do it myself.
 
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