MeatyChi
Members
I still have this starting when warm issue. No complete failure yet but it's really starting to bug me!
Accord 04 CDTi starting problems
- Thread starter alloy36
- Start date
I still have this starting when warm issue. No complete failure yet but it's really starting to bug me!
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Hi Meaty,
As mentioned before, it is a bit odd to have this problem when hot and not when cold!
Does the starter motor seem to turn over slower when warm?
Does the problem appear to be getting worse at all?
Have you read off any stored ECU codes since the problem began?
Do you tend to do short journeys only?
Does the car still seem perfectly ok otherwise (e.g. acceleration/fuel economy/smooth running)?
As mentioned before, it is a bit odd to have this problem when hot and not when cold!
Does the starter motor seem to turn over slower when warm?
Does the problem appear to be getting worse at all?
Have you read off any stored ECU codes since the problem began?
Do you tend to do short journeys only?
Does the car still seem perfectly ok otherwise (e.g. acceleration/fuel economy/smooth running)?
H Peasource
Injector King
Very little to add to the questions Jon has asked. A number of ideas come to mind but it will depend on the answers to those questions.
Alan
Alan
crespo
TAF Member
defo a sensor mate, Cam/Crank sensor is where i would look.
Terry124
Members
In the absence of any specific fault codes I would follow Crespo's advice and go for the crank sender.
These often fail when they get warm, but when they cool the windings join up again no problem.
There is usually also no fault codes when they start to go wrong in my experience as the ECU just thinks that the engine has stopped.
If you have a decent multi meter put it on Hz and set if there are outputs from the sensors.
Could try easy start whilst cranking, if the engine tries to start then it would point to a fuel delivery issue, rather then electrics.
There are bound to be a few people who will provide adverse feedback re easy start, however in my experience easy start does not adversely affect an engines ability to start.
I would suggest this rumour came about due to people using easy start to start engines that already had compression/fuel delivery issues, hence when they stopped using easy start they had trouble starting
These often fail when they get warm, but when they cool the windings join up again no problem.
There is usually also no fault codes when they start to go wrong in my experience as the ECU just thinks that the engine has stopped.
If you have a decent multi meter put it on Hz and set if there are outputs from the sensors.
Could try easy start whilst cranking, if the engine tries to start then it would point to a fuel delivery issue, rather then electrics.
There are bound to be a few people who will provide adverse feedback re easy start, however in my experience easy start does not adversely affect an engines ability to start.
I would suggest this rumour came about due to people using easy start to start engines that already had compression/fuel delivery issues, hence when they stopped using easy start they had trouble starting
MeatyChi
Members
Oops forgot i posted this one!
Here are the answers to your Qs
- Starter motor seems to turnover the same
- The problem is still when the engine is warm
- I havent had any diagnostics on it yet
- I do a mix of long and short journeys is does the same thing regardless of size of the journey
ebod
Members
Hi All, I think SPUTNIK has overheard me talking about parting with it 
. I the last few weeks its been taking just that little bit longer to crank.
I've just got home and needed to go out again...say 20mins later, and this time she won't fire up. Its a bit weird really after a 37mile drive...but hey there you go.
She had a new alternator a few years ago but never had a starter to my knowledge.
But what leans me to conclude its a battery is the recent service history log I wrote up shows the first battery change was @nearly 4yrs old with 162K miles. Its now just over 8 1/2 yrs old...so fair play it leans towards needing a battery or a crank sensor
The wife has just shot off in the S-Max so I need her back so I can try a jumpstart and at least confirm it will start. I've connected up my GS3 via via Torque app and there are no fault codes.
But hopefully my woes are in synch with this subject post B)
. I the last few weeks its been taking just that little bit longer to crank.I've just got home and needed to go out again...say 20mins later, and this time she won't fire up. Its a bit weird really after a 37mile drive...but hey there you go.
She had a new alternator a few years ago but never had a starter to my knowledge.
But what leans me to conclude its a battery is the recent service history log I wrote up shows the first battery change was @nearly 4yrs old with 162K miles. Its now just over 8 1/2 yrs old...so fair play it leans towards needing a battery or a crank sensor
The wife has just shot off in the S-Max so I need her back so I can try a jumpstart and at least confirm it will start. I've connected up my GS3 via via Torque app and there are no fault codes.
But hopefully my woes are in synch with this subject post B)
ebod
Members
50 mins later and now it starts. :unsure:
That surely must be a ****ey crank sensor ????
I somehow expect it will start fine in the morning and also early eve when returning home. Though the sudden concern is when pitstopping for a tank of derv.
Can anybody pls advise part details & location of the I-CTDI position sensors ???
EDIT:: Is this what could be causing the prob : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CRV-FRV-2-2-I-CTDI-N22A2-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-BOSCH-0281002406-/271182409562?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f23bb2f5a
I wouldn't mind but I'm about to put some bids in for SPUTNIK-II tomoz
That surely must be a ****ey crank sensor ????
I somehow expect it will start fine in the morning and also early eve when returning home. Though the sudden concern is when pitstopping for a tank of derv.
Can anybody pls advise part details & location of the I-CTDI position sensors ???
EDIT:: Is this what could be causing the prob : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CRV-FRV-2-2-I-CTDI-N22A2-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-BOSCH-0281002406-/271182409562?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f23bb2f5a
I wouldn't mind but I'm about to put some bids in for SPUTNIK-II tomoz
Jon_G
No Longer Active
50 mins later and now it starts. :unsure:
That surely must be a ****ey crank sensor ????
I somehow expect it will start fine in the morning and also early eve when returning home. Though the sudden concern is when pitstopping for a tank of derv.
Can anybody pls advise part details & location of the I-CTDI position sensors ???
EDIT:: Is this what could be causing the prob : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CRV-FRV-2-2-I-CTDI-N22A2-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-BOSCH-0281002406-/271182409562?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f23bb2f5a
I wouldn't mind but I'm about to put some bids in for SPUTNIK-II tomoz
Whether the problem is camshaft or crankshaft sensor, the advice given by Terry Vincent in post #36 is sound. But obviously you will need to access an oscilloscope, or a multimeter with that functionality.
However, I think the ECU would tell you if one of these sensors was faulty. I'm tempted to agree that it's a leaky injector preventing the fuel rail from pressurising, but I can't get my head round why this only happens when hot,,, a leak back test might identify the culprit. Hasn't Sputnik had new injectors?
ebod
Members
SPUTNIK had a full set of used injectors fitted late last year. They weren't just dropped in, I had them all cleaned & tested beforehand. As declared in a recent post, she is a non-smoker these days.
Last night this was all occurring ~20<>30 mins after a run home Leeds>Manchester. I tried to crank it approx 4 times and could just tell it wasn't gonna start.
Then I went to the TA forum and hence made the above posts and that hour later it started, so I moved it off the road onto the driveway.
I got up early this morning as a contingency in case I had to call in a favour for a lift, but despite all the attempted starts last night leaving the battery at 12.2V ( I normally ***ume 12.6V+ is a good battery voltage )........SPUTNIK started easily.
So I'm now certain this isn't battery or starter ( even though neither my be in tip-top condition ). It could have been like this for ages, as its very rare I would do a long run , then stop the car and restart 30mins later. It speaks to me of a sensor getting warm once the car has stopped running , due to the effects of heak soak off the engine. I had a peep last night and think theres a cam sensor just behind the EGR. I might source a used spare as a precaution....
ebod
Members
Faddy, been away all week in my S-Max , but the Accord now back on the drive after its new front ABS sensor. After getting home today, I shifted the Honda off the drive to give it a run.
It started fine from cold and after running for a few mins I switched it off.When I restarted it took a few secs to restart.
So I chose to go out & put £20 quid in the tank and actually left it running while filling up (wife & daughter inside ). Then we carry on to Asda for some sat night tea.
After 30mins ambling round the supermarket, we come back out to the car and it won't start :-( So we have to leave it and get a cab home ( an Accord derv taxi LOL ).
Wife is going mental at me 'cos presently we have 3 cars and we have to get a cab home hahaha :-D
So we eat our tea and then proceed to jump into SPUTNIK-II the Civic and head back to Asda. Plan A was ..hope the Accord starts and just bring it home, Plan - B was the wife rings the recovery service and explains she's not in her own car but in distress..
Anyways, SPUTNIK-I the Accord starts straight away so we both raced home and its back on the drive.
A few weeks ago I took off the cam sensor and gave it a clean , and it did seem to work. Even at that quick trip to yours it managed to start up 2 or 3 times no bother. So I really thought I'd cracked it.
What I've done tonight is fleabay a used 0-281-002-406 Bosch cam sensor fro £20 quid and I'll bang it on when it turns up on the post.
The previous posts in this thread have pointed towards battery probs and I admit I know my battery is 4+yrs old. But no way can it be a battery if the problem is only related to warm starting.
If the prob re-occurs after I fit this replacement cam sensor do you know whether HDS could identify a sensor giving spurious readings???
It started fine from cold and after running for a few mins I switched it off.When I restarted it took a few secs to restart.
So I chose to go out & put £20 quid in the tank and actually left it running while filling up (wife & daughter inside ). Then we carry on to Asda for some sat night tea.
After 30mins ambling round the supermarket, we come back out to the car and it won't start :-( So we have to leave it and get a cab home ( an Accord derv taxi LOL ).
Wife is going mental at me 'cos presently we have 3 cars and we have to get a cab home hahaha :-D
So we eat our tea and then proceed to jump into SPUTNIK-II the Civic and head back to Asda. Plan A was ..hope the Accord starts and just bring it home, Plan - B was the wife rings the recovery service and explains she's not in her own car but in distress..
Anyways, SPUTNIK-I the Accord starts straight away so we both raced home and its back on the drive.
A few weeks ago I took off the cam sensor and gave it a clean , and it did seem to work. Even at that quick trip to yours it managed to start up 2 or 3 times no bother. So I really thought I'd cracked it.
What I've done tonight is fleabay a used 0-281-002-406 Bosch cam sensor fro £20 quid and I'll bang it on when it turns up on the post.
The previous posts in this thread have pointed towards battery probs and I admit I know my battery is 4+yrs old. But no way can it be a battery if the problem is only related to warm starting.
If the prob re-occurs after I fit this replacement cam sensor do you know whether HDS could identify a sensor giving spurious readings???
I'm not aware of a test that can check the cam sensor for readings. The cam position sensor does exactly that, checks the position of the cam and sends a reading to the ECU, as does the crank PS...
So it's either working or not working.. You may have a sticking EGR valve. I've seen this recently on a few Civic's (although they have the Vacum operated system like the facelift Accord's. The actuator needs time to cool down and then the valve is fine..
So it's either working or not working.. You may have a sticking EGR valve. I've seen this recently on a few Civic's (although they have the Vacum operated system like the facelift Accord's. The actuator needs time to cool down and then the valve is fine..
ebod
Members
But wouldn't a sticky EGR cause other running probs?? I swear once she starts...she doesn't miss a beat ...or smoke etc. Also would EGR cause a fault code ??? ...and I recall you HDS tested the EGR in its warm state and it flagged up as okay
I successfully found the cam sensor. It was a pain to access ( had to strip off the air intake filter box etc ). What I intend to do is replace the cam sensor and also strip & clean the MAP & MAF sensors with electrical contact spray.
What I didn't know is that there was also a crank sensor. Where is that located??? any known images to guide me in ( and also appropriate Bosch no's )
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Call me over-cautious, but I'd do only one thing at a time (and a few days apart) so you'll have a better idea what the cure actually was. That way it'll be easier to address the problem if it re-occurs.
:lol: You must have forgotten...
I'd be amazed if it wasn't in the area of the engine pulley... look for wiring in that area and follow it along. I was surprised to find these engines had both a crankshaft and a camshaft sensor... the only reason I can think of for having a camshaft sensor is for the ECU to check that the timing chain hasn't stretched or jumped a cog?
Good luck!
Yes the EGR passed the test, but it can still have an intermittent problem. The test is only as good as the time and conditions under which it was performed.. EGR's don't always through up errors either that's the problem. If the EGR is partially stuck open when you are trying to restart the car, this will cause it to not start.
It could be the crank/cam or anything else, it's alway a bit hit and miss with stuff like this reallty.
It could be the crank/cam or anything else, it's alway a bit hit and miss with stuff like this reallty.
ebod
Members
mmm... I know its a nightmare chasing electronic ghosts. But I'm choosing the route of 1. ) cam sensor, see if it behaves.....,if not then 2) crank sensor.
I've done a bit of digging and appears the crank sensor is far less common as a purchase. Its located just underneath the a/c compressor which might be a slag to access.
Interesting how this wiki discusses the cam sensor is used to synchronise the timing on start up, plus a sign a sensor is on the way out is failure to start when warm..... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor
I've done a bit of digging and appears the crank sensor is far less common as a purchase. Its located just underneath the a/c compressor which might be a slag to access.
Interesting how this wiki discusses the cam sensor is used to synchronise the timing on start up, plus a sign a sensor is on the way out is failure to start when warm..... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor
Is it good to use electrical cleaner for MAF and MAP sensors?
ebod
Members
.....well....£19 quid was a small wager ...but wasted nethertheless.
The used CAM sensor was fitted tonight, as expected SPUTNIK-I started okay cold , so I left her running while I give it a wash along with SPUTNIK-II the Civic.
30mins later I switched off the ignition and left it a few mins.
....would she start ???? No chance
I think I'll start a fresh topic about CRANK sensors now.
The used CAM sensor was fitted tonight, as expected SPUTNIK-I started okay cold , so I left her running while I give it a wash along with SPUTNIK-II the Civic.
30mins later I switched off the ignition and left it a few mins.
....would she start ???? No chance
I think I'll start a fresh topic about CRANK sensors now.
Hi Guys - A very nice and well laid out forum - i do hope to use and get involved on here a who lot more after finding it.
I was just wondering if this issue was ever rectified as I have the same problem.
I have a new battery fitted (aftermarket) & after a run, the temp gets up to normal (just off centre of the gauge) I can switch the vehicle off and then back on - and it will crank but doesn't start. However if I bump the car it starts.
I had a garage 'check' the electrical circuit with no faults and by all accounts the fuel system (injectors are producing the same amount of fuel ) which is ok. There is a genuine Bosch fuel filter and the car has always been serviced. However the fuel bulb, when primed very quickly goes soft - ???
Other issues - When the car is running its pretty good, but do detect the odd ocasion where it feels the power is dropping off (very slightly) or its not 'firing' on all cylinders - any ideas.
Can i just comfirm after looking over the internet that the 2.2 d doesn't have a main relay??
Regards
Bart
I was just wondering if this issue was ever rectified as I have the same problem.
I have a new battery fitted (aftermarket) & after a run, the temp gets up to normal (just off centre of the gauge) I can switch the vehicle off and then back on - and it will crank but doesn't start. However if I bump the car it starts.
I had a garage 'check' the electrical circuit with no faults and by all accounts the fuel system (injectors are producing the same amount of fuel ) which is ok. There is a genuine Bosch fuel filter and the car has always been serviced. However the fuel bulb, when primed very quickly goes soft - ???
Other issues - When the car is running its pretty good, but do detect the odd ocasion where it feels the power is dropping off (very slightly) or its not 'firing' on all cylinders - any ideas.
Can i just comfirm after looking over the internet that the 2.2 d doesn't have a main relay??
Regards
Bart
BurningGiraffe
New Member
Hi there Guys.
Joined the Forum when I bought my Accord about 18 months ago but have had no reason to use it until now.
I have a '54 plate Accord Diesel which exhibits similar issues to the ones discussed in this thread and I am getting a bit fed up with this non starting. It has been to my regular garage, a local diesel-electrical specialist and the local Honda dealer all without any noticeable improvement.
The key facts:
1.) It runs fine once started.
2.) When cold it generally starts after turning over for maybe 2-4 seconds, although not 'on the button' as it did when I bought it.
3.) After a run it will often simply refuse to start no matter how long you turn it over for or how many times you try.
4.) Leave it for half an hour and it will usually start again, after maybe 4-10 seconds.
5.) The starting is more temperamental after 'hard use'.
6.) Here is the bizarre one - yesterday I happened to be on a hill so i thought why not try to bump start it? It started straight away with no hesitation or misfiring.
I will go and investigate further over the next day or two but I cannot put up with a car that is an unreliable starter and need to find a solution to this issue.
Cheers !
Joined the Forum when I bought my Accord about 18 months ago but have had no reason to use it until now.
I have a '54 plate Accord Diesel which exhibits similar issues to the ones discussed in this thread and I am getting a bit fed up with this non starting. It has been to my regular garage, a local diesel-electrical specialist and the local Honda dealer all without any noticeable improvement.
The key facts:
1.) It runs fine once started.
2.) When cold it generally starts after turning over for maybe 2-4 seconds, although not 'on the button' as it did when I bought it.
3.) After a run it will often simply refuse to start no matter how long you turn it over for or how many times you try.
4.) Leave it for half an hour and it will usually start again, after maybe 4-10 seconds.
5.) The starting is more temperamental after 'hard use'.
6.) Here is the bizarre one - yesterday I happened to be on a hill so i thought why not try to bump start it? It started straight away with no hesitation or misfiring.
I will go and investigate further over the next day or two but I cannot put up with a car that is an unreliable starter and need to find a solution to this issue.
Cheers !
Great to read all this, and not feel that I have an isolated problem.
I have a '55 plate Accord Diesel, and;
1) Starts fine when cold (but, as mentioned, not 'on the button' as it used to - or is this in my mind?)
2) Once warm, has trouble starting, may take 10 or 12 seconds ...... this has been going on for 6 or 8 weeks.
3) Was in the French Alps last week, climbed up to about 3500 feet in second & third in 28 degree heat (so real hard on the car), stopped for about 15 mins close to the top to look at the view, and (for the first time) absolutely refused to start when we wanted to leave ...... opened the bonnet and waited 20 mins - then started after about 10 seconds. continued to the top, stopped for a drink and a wander. started okay after about an hour or so.
4) Once back to normal driving, number 2) repeats itself, but never failed to start completely.
5) Sat in a 20 min queue followed by a steep climb in second and third to a restaurant ..... decided not to eat at the restaurant, so went to start the car after about 10 mins ..... again, refused to start ..... but, after opening the bonnet and getting a face full of (expected) heat, the car started after maybe 15 seconds ................ the problem seems to relate to the heat in the engine bay, and not particularly how hot the engine is.
6) Now home after a great drive back stopping once for lunch and once for diesel, with minor starting problems only, but clearly with an issue to sort.
However ..... Another '55 plate Accord pulled up at the same view point (same colour and everything ), driven by a real nice bloke, who had bought an Accord after driving unreliable BMWs! (oh dear!)
He had the very same problem with one of his BMWs ..... after spending a small fortune on fuel pumps and injectors, it turned out to be a component within the ECU that would over heat when the engine bay was hot, and not send diesel to the injectors.
This makes loads of sense to me, especially as the problem seems to relate directly to the heat in the engine bay, and simply opening the bonnet helping a great deal. surely must be a hot sensor or ECU?
Where is our ECU? Footwell? Centre Console? or under the bonnet?
Cheers
I have a '55 plate Accord Diesel, and;
1) Starts fine when cold (but, as mentioned, not 'on the button' as it used to - or is this in my mind?)
2) Once warm, has trouble starting, may take 10 or 12 seconds ...... this has been going on for 6 or 8 weeks.
3) Was in the French Alps last week, climbed up to about 3500 feet in second & third in 28 degree heat (so real hard on the car), stopped for about 15 mins close to the top to look at the view, and (for the first time) absolutely refused to start when we wanted to leave ...... opened the bonnet and waited 20 mins - then started after about 10 seconds. continued to the top, stopped for a drink and a wander. started okay after about an hour or so.
4) Once back to normal driving, number 2) repeats itself, but never failed to start completely.
5) Sat in a 20 min queue followed by a steep climb in second and third to a restaurant ..... decided not to eat at the restaurant, so went to start the car after about 10 mins ..... again, refused to start ..... but, after opening the bonnet and getting a face full of (expected) heat, the car started after maybe 15 seconds ................ the problem seems to relate to the heat in the engine bay, and not particularly how hot the engine is.
6) Now home after a great drive back stopping once for lunch and once for diesel, with minor starting problems only, but clearly with an issue to sort.
However ..... Another '55 plate Accord pulled up at the same view point (same colour and everything
), driven by a real nice bloke, who had bought an Accord after driving unreliable BMWs! (oh dear!)He had the very same problem with one of his BMWs ..... after spending a small fortune on fuel pumps and injectors, it turned out to be a component within the ECU that would over heat when the engine bay was hot, and not send diesel to the injectors.
This makes loads of sense to me, especially as the problem seems to relate directly to the heat in the engine bay, and simply opening the bonnet helping a great deal. surely must be a hot sensor or ECU?
Where is our ECU? Footwell? Centre Console? or under the bonnet?
Cheers
First guys i have a 2.2 cdti accord 2004, i am suffering the exact issues. the car may/not start in the mornings, defo not when hot. It cranks for ages and maybe about 1-3 attempts it starts.
try these:
1) call green flag and RAC and get a full diagnostic done so at least you can rule out any code etc or actually find a code like fuel pump/ circuit etc.
2) No codes try changing the fuel filter and see if it makes a difference. i did that but only lasted 2 weeks and then the stupid problem came back.
3) another issue maybe its the engine temp coolant sensor, pop that out and check/change.
4) Or its the crank shaft/ cam shaft sensors.
5) im ruling out battery,alternator and starter because i know this wont be the problem otherwise the car wont have the energy to crank for that long and the car runs like a bullet once its started.
6) try the main relay and ECU board, maybe its over heating.
7) last resort go to honda for a proper honda diagnostic BUT NEVER AGREE with parts with them , i say buy parts elsewhere and get it done at a reliable garage, cos they are a rip off!!!
8) some say changing the fuel rail/common rail fixes it. i i did that buying a used one , helped for a weeks and then back to cranking problems.
Overall, i must say its to do with the electrics, hence one of the sensors or ECU unit or Main relay.
try these:
1) call green flag and RAC and get a full diagnostic done so at least you can rule out any code etc or actually find a code like fuel pump/ circuit etc.
2) No codes try changing the fuel filter and see if it makes a difference. i did that but only lasted 2 weeks and then the stupid problem came back.
3) another issue maybe its the engine temp coolant sensor, pop that out and check/change.
4) Or its the crank shaft/ cam shaft sensors.
5) im ruling out battery,alternator and starter because i know this wont be the problem otherwise the car wont have the energy to crank for that long and the car runs like a bullet once its started.
6) try the main relay and ECU board, maybe its over heating.
7) last resort go to honda for a proper honda diagnostic BUT NEVER AGREE with parts with them , i say buy parts elsewhere and get it done at a reliable garage, cos they are a rip off!!!
8) some say changing the fuel rail/common rail fixes it. i i did that buying a used one , helped for a weeks and then back to cranking problems.
Overall, i must say its to do with the electrics, hence one of the sensors or ECU unit or Main relay.
Just got a p0193 code: fuel rail pressure - high volt.
But this is intermittent. Would you suggest i try cleaning the egr valve first? Or get a new fuel rail pressure sensor? Its really annoying never knew Japanese cars will give such problems. And its so embarrassing at times when the car just doesn't start,,,, make sit look like a Banger!!! It eventually starts in the first crank but after at least 8-10 seconds! Thats not healthy at all! Also i have not got a genuine fuel filter in. So shall i first change it to a genuine honda bosch fuel filter and see? Because when i had my car serviced i put a mann filter in which was like only£15, they car was superb at starting in 2 seconds for about 2 weeks then cranking problems came back. So whether putting a genuine fuel filter or changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or cleaning the EGR valve MUST Solve the issue.
ps: called honda they recommend and only sell genuine honda filter which is the Bosch one because they confirmed the same part number. So shall i just order that.
But this is intermittent. Would you suggest i try cleaning the egr valve first? Or get a new fuel rail pressure sensor? Its really annoying never knew Japanese cars will give such problems. And its so embarrassing at times when the car just doesn't start,,,, make sit look like a Banger!!! It eventually starts in the first crank but after at least 8-10 seconds! Thats not healthy at all! Also i have not got a genuine fuel filter in. So shall i first change it to a genuine honda bosch fuel filter and see? Because when i had my car serviced i put a mann filter in which was like only£15, they car was superb at starting in 2 seconds for about 2 weeks then cranking problems came back. So whether putting a genuine fuel filter or changing the fuel rail pressure sensor or cleaning the EGR valve MUST Solve the issue.
ps: called honda they recommend and only sell genuine honda filter which is the Bosch one because they confirmed the same part number. So shall i just order that.