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anyone got a cgmotorsport paddle clutch?

Chriseybaby

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Accord 2.0 i-Vtec Ex
I'm debating whether to put one of these on or a standard Honda one. How harsh is the clutch?
 
Was a member on here called Kenhom (Al)
 
I've had one for a few months now Chris and it is brilliant for what it is made for, BUT there is no way I would recommend it for a standard tuned motor. It is very grabby! by the very nature of how it works it has to be. If I was having to drive in heavy traffic a lot mine would not be the best car to drive. HTHs :)
 
Cheers Cliff. Think I'll stick to OEM then when mine finally dies - not that it appears to be struggling anymore. :rolleyes:
 
Yeah honda came out with a 325 revision and alot of guys on civinfo have them. Not sure how they are handling extra torque, might be worth having a look on there.
 
I've had one for a few months now Chris and it is brilliant for what it is made for, BUT there is no way I would recommend it for a standard tuned motor. It is very grabby! by the very nature of how it works it has to be. If I was having to drive in heavy traffic a lot mine would not be the best car to drive. HTHs :)

Agreed Cliff motorway cruising = happy days, but if your using the clutch alot its grabby nature can be a pita.
 
I'm glad I asked the question now since my driving is mainly on single carrageway. And does involve traffic.

Looks like a standard Honda one for me then.

Cheers
 
If you speak to Mike or Linda at CG they also do a 25% uprated version which is an organic clutch. This would give you a more robust clutch without the paddle clutch issues.
 
Oh boy.
My clutch is slipping like hell. I've got stage 2 remap from Premier Tuning and would want to stick with it. I know it's not a good idea to go with a OEM clutch.
I was thinking going for a CG clutch and fw, but I don't want the car to be a pain to drive.
It the pedal much more stiff? What do you mean with "grabby"?
 
grabby is when you lift up on the clutch and as it reaches the bite point.. instead of smoothly biteing. it 'grabs' and is more 'on / off'.
 
grabby is when you lift up on the clutch and as it reaches the bite point.. instead of smoothly biteing. it 'grabs' and is more 'on / off'.
Spot on :) Nuno, the paddle clutch is just the same to press down as the pressure plate is the same, only the centre plate that's different.
 
It comes with complimentary sandals and makes the exhaust emit bird song;)
 
Spot on :) Nuno, the paddle clutch is just the same to press down as the pressure plate is the same, only the centre plate that's different.
Now I am confused? I know that it is the pressure plate that is the weak point on the CTDI. When I had a new clutch the centre plate had loads of meat left on it, but the pressure plate was allowing it to slip. I thought that the paddle clutch was meant to last longer than the standard one. If the pressure plate is the same as the standard one, how can this be? Do CG Motorsport not make the pressure plate stronger as well? I only ask because if my clutch goes again, I was considering the CG one.
 
The centre plate is designed so it takes less pressure to make it hold, it works so well that it causes the grabbing effect that is the down side to it if in heavy traffic. Brilliant at what it is designed to do :) but flawed a bit by the grabbing :(
 
I believe CG have also reinforced the springs on the self adjuster guys.
 
Yep, that is the actual cause of the premature pressure plate wear...
 
If you after a very reliable clutch then the CG paddle clutch will probably be better. My experience of paddle clutches are that they are either on or off, no biting point, also they can be slightly heavier to engage/disengage purely because the pressure plate springs are alot more stringer.

It all depends on what your after, if you want to up the power of the Accord, the CG clutch will probably be the best bet.
 
What's best on a standard Accord then? A standard Honda unit or the 25% cg one? Anyone know the price difference?
 
Matt bearing in mind the history of failing clutches on these cars, I would go for an uprated CG jobbie.
 
Cheers Faddy, this is turning out to be a very useful thread. I'm sure it will benefit a lot of members at some point!
 
Any experience if this "new" organic uprated 25% CG clutch will handle the stage 2 remap?
Or it's safer to go for the 6 paddle?
 
Matt bearing in mind the history of failing clutches on these cars, I would go for an uprated CG jobbie.

F6had.

Are these failing clutches the old spec from Honda ? or the new revised 325 version ?

Im very interested to see how the 325's are coping with the remap before i commit to a paddle when my clutch has finally gone.
 
Any experience if this "new" organic uprated 25% CG clutch will handle the stage 2 remap?
Or it's safer to go for the 6 paddle?

Well a couple of the civinfo guys where able to destroy the kestral kevlar clutch with high pressure maps on their ictdi's. IIRC they had different tunes as well think they where rstuning and celtic maps. I would be happy with a stage 1 and CG organic setup but a stage 2 I would want the paddle clutch set up.

Also Faddy is correct about the pressure plate, CG take the Luk components and uprate the pressure plate so it acquires a better clamping force. To start with for the first 500 miles the paddle clutch will judder a bit whilst it beds in. Afterwards you will be left with a slight grabby tendency which can be driven around by keeping slightly higher revs in the lower gears. However it still had a tendency to catch me out and was an annoyance for than a complete nightmare.

From previous car's Ive had with paddle clutches I can say the CG one is very very tame and actually surprised me. I expected it to be alot more grabby than it was and a higher feel to the clutch peddle.
 
From what's been said above I would say Monks suggestion is the best. Stage 1 remap with a CG organic clutch so you get the best of both worlds (performance and smoothness). But if you want a stage 2 remap the only reliable solution is the paddle clutch, and sacrifice comfort for performance.
 
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