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Car not starting g update with fault codes and info

You could have a knackered injector mate. Sorry not read the entire thread so may be you've elimintaed that.
 
All these attempted starts will be taking a toll on the battery... if it gets too drained then this will cause starting problems (even if it appears to be cranking OK).
 
OK. Bled the system as far as I think I have and nothing. allIm getting out is diesel. Got can of easy start here..... where do I need to spray this.... and how much. took the airlifted box out earlier to change filter. I take it i just take it our again and spray into either the front pipe or rear pipe???????
 
Im on my own so does it matter if I can't spray into air intake while cranking????
 
I'd lever up the front/top of the filter box and spray it in there, but not something that you can do on your own, as the engine needs to be cranked as you spray it in. DON'T SPRAY TOO MUCH IN AT A TIME!

How long are you cranking it over for each time? Hopefully you saw my post about the battery getting drained?
 
If I've read your first post in the other thread correctly the car started OK and then just cut dead. If that's right then this is not a filter problem although changing the filter will have done no harm.

You have fuel flowing out of the filter when you use the primer bulb so it's a reasonable ***umption that the filter and the feed from the tank are in reasonable condition. Therefore it's likely that the problem lies in the fuel system after the filter. Fahad has already mentioned the possibility of a knackered injector and you need to eliminate this by doing a leak off test. The test will actually serve two purposes. Firstly it will identify any defective injector and secondly if no fuel comes out of the leak off pipes it shows that the injectors are not receiving a supply of fuel.

Apart from an obvious leak in the high pressure pipework I can think of two scenarios that would cause no fuel to be reaching the injectors, both pump-related. One is that the inlet metering valve has failed and the other is the drive between the low pressure and high pressure sides of the pump has sheared. Both of these would cause the engine to be running OK and to then suddenly cut out.

Alan
 
Hi Guys

OK. An update for you all.

My neighbour just popped over (ford test engineer) and he helped me out with the engine start spray stuff...... I cranked he sprayed and it would only run with quick start being sprayed into the intake....... as soon as he stopped spraying it stopped running.

Next. took pipe off an injector to see if fuel getting to injector..... nothing. took fuel outlet off the pump to see if fuel there..... nothing.

Now I know fuel getting to pump cos I can get fuel there on the priming bulb. so problem deff within the fuel pump area.

Alan. came back from holiday turned key it fired right away and so I gave it 2 revs and it died never to start again.....................

Think I better start looking for another fuel pump.....????

Cheers Gary
 
If it is the IMV these can be bought and changed easily. Jon's the expert on that subject! However if the drive has sheared then the answer is a replacement pump.

At least you've now narrowed it down.

Alan
 
Not sure what way to go.... get the IMV or get a second hand pump with the IMV already in place........ really don't want to waste money getting a part thats not needed. but then again I need to try and get this fixed as soon as.

Any suggestions????
 
You could take off the metering valve and see if it appears to be sticking or damaged. It comes off pretty easily, but the 3 screws do have torx drive heads (air filter box will need to come off).

It may not be the fuel pump ***embly that's broken... the fuel pump is driven by a driveshaft that comes off a camshaft and that shaft can snap, I've seen a thread about this on the Civic forum (same engine). If the valve looks OK then I suggest taking the fuel pump off to find out if you can determine if the pump seems OK and/or if the driveshaft is snapped.
 
Thanks Jon
will check tools tomorrow for torx fittings and see if I can remove that first. How's the pump held on. Is it 3 or 4 torx bolts too.......
 
Sorry, never had the pump off. If it doesn't look obvious then PM me... I can dig out my Honda service manual and copy/paste the instructions for you (I'd do it now, but the disk is in my car, which is parked down the street).
 
I too can't remember how the pump comes off and as I've no longer got the car I can't check! Must've been fairly obvious though otherwise I would have remembered.

I'd suggest you do take the pump off and have a thoroughly good look at things. This will give you the opportunity to look at the coupling between the camshaft and pump. Also you can take the finned cover off the end of the pump and check that the low pressure side is still connected to the high pressure side - just turn the pump input shaft and make sure the gears in the lp side rotate.

A couple of words of caution, though. The internals of the pump are made to incredibly fine tolerances so there's a need for absolute cleanliness if you open it up, either by removing the IMV or the end cover (the same applies to refitting the pipe to the high pressure outlet). One tiny speck of dirt will wreck the pump. The second thing is once you've refitted the pump and try to start the engine don't put your hands anywhere near the pump in case you've got a slight diesel leak. The pressures the pump can produce are quite capable of slicing your fingers off.

Alan
 
If you remove the pump you WILL lose engine timing, and that could be a real test of your abilities to retime bad enough on our 6D FORDS IN THE BOAT. are you able to get to the inlet side of the pump i.e were the fuel enters? if so then jury rig a small container onto the pump and allow fuel to fall by gravity to it. Not up on these new fangled systems but the Oldies have a lift pump camshaft driven, maybe these newbies have a built in lift pump?
 
John - injection timing on a common rail diesel doesn't depend upon the pump being sync'd... it's just there to lift the fuel from the tank and also pressurise the fuel rail... then the ECU controls the injection timing via electrical signals to the injectors.

There is a rotary driveshaft from the passenger end of a camshaft which the fuel pump connects to.
 
Jon_G said:
John - injection timing on a common rail diesel doesn't depend upon the pump being sync'd... it's just there to lift the fuel from the tank and also pressurise the fuel rail... then the ECU controls the injection timing via electrical signals to the injectors.

There is a rotary driveshaft from the passenger end of a camshaft which the fuel pump connects to.

Thanks for that Jon, learn something new every day, PS can this be fitted to a 6D?? L.OL
Click to expand...
 
^^ yup that's why injector calibration is important as the ecu is requesting very specific volumes of fuel within the duty cycle depending on load and speed conditions.
 
Ok. got the fuel pump pressure regulator off the car just now. What am I checking for...... does the internal bit spin round or something?

Anyway here (hopefully) is a pic of what I got off the car....


 
See if the O-rings are in good condition and the sliding part seems to be free. I can't remember how free mine was as I didn't have a mechanical problem with mine (the solenoid windings had developed a short circuit).

The more I think about your problem, the more likely I reckon the fuel pump drive shaft has sheared. As mentioned, I have heard of this happening before.
 
Can't you see the rod through the hole in the side... maybe it stays retracted until power is applied? In which case, it would appear not to be the cause of your problem, as sticking open would allow the car to start, but the fuel pressure would rise uncontrollably until the ECU shut the engine down.

Maybe time to crack on and remove the fuel pump?
 
if you mean see through one of the 4 verbal holes round the tip bit... then yes I can see a shiny surface. but thats it. cannot get anything to spin push or pull.....
 
hmmm. well I can't kill it any more than what it is currently might be. lol. do you think a 9v battery will be enough?? or should I just whack on a 12v car battery and keep fingers crossed??? don't suppose it matters what way round the wires are does it??
Gary
 
OK. I put a 9v battery across it and when power was applied it made a sound and felt a little moment but could not see anything moving. something happened but god knows what........lol.
 
Hopefully Will get in from work early one day this week to crack off the fuel pump. Have an offer on one on ebay.

Cheers for all your help guys.
Gary
 
The current will be quite high, as the solenoid resistance/impedance is only a few ohms (3 ohms, from memory). So it'll want to draw more current from a 9v battery than the battery can probably supply and so fail to fully function. I'd try connecting it to the car battery, but only in very quick bursts to avoid the solenoid overheating. In operation it pulses in and out at 120 times per second, but varies the 'on' times to adjust the overall average fuel flow (e.g. pulse width modulation).

I'd want to be really, really sure that the drive shaft/sprocket from the camshaft to the fuel pump ***embly wasn't broken before splashing out on a replacement pump.
 
Jon_G said:
I'd want to be really, really sure that the drive shaft/sprocket from the camshaft to the fuel pump ***embly wasn't broken before splashing out on a replacement pump.
Click to expand...
Agreed but please also check the drive between the low pressure and high pressure sides of the pump. Bosch CP3 pumps, which this is, do have a bit of a reputation for shearing this drive.

Alan
 
OK Guys. as soon as I got it off (prob wednesday) I will be back on here to ask how to check it out.

Thanks for everything again guys.
Gary
 
That regulator looks like the part that Failed on my Dads Vauxhall Astra ecoflex diesel. Its suffered from a really bad idle issue and could get quite bad at times with its surging. Changed that part and all is well, still very occasional spurt but i suppose that's expected when you get a copy part from ebay lol. Overall its 99% sorted and we are really happy.
 
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