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Clutch slave cylinder...correct part?

C

Chris1.8SPort

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Location
Surrey
Car
Accord 1.8 Sport
Hi,

My first question on the forum. My clutch slave cylinder is dying (leaking fluid behind rubber boot). I'm trying to track down the correct replacement part but they seem to vary wildly from £30 up to £120+

Edit: Car is a 2001 1.8 Sport

I've seen this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B8W4PDM
Which seems to be the correct part...

My current one looks like this:



There's a tech bulletin on the amazon link explaining about a recall of a master cylinder and the need to upgrade all pipework if this has been done...sooo....I'm pretty sure I'm ordering the correct part, but confirmation from one of you guys would be very helpful before I shell out for it :D

Thanks!!!

Chris
 
Welcome to the forum. I'm not entirely sure as to your question, but I'm sure someone will be able to help you out soon.
 
hi chris i can confirm that that is the correct part for your car,as ive recently replaced mine a couple of weeks ago, the exact part that you have in your link is what ive used
 
Thanks for that, excellent news.

I think I got slightly confused that the 6th gen is also called the MkVII when searching parts. Anyway, cylinder ordered along with new front discs and pads and a pollen filter. Gonna be a busy boy over the next week :)
 
Also just to note on that amazon product page they list the OEM part number which matches up with the OEM number on Lings website, so that is a good way to check compatibility in the future.
 
Thanks exec, will remember that one!

Well front discs and pads fitted, and clutch slave cylinder replaced. What a PITA that turned out to be...didn't realise until too late that it's almost impossible to access the bleed nipple once the cylinder's fitted. I removed the cylinder, cable tied across the piston to stop it popping out (I used an eezibleed) but the cable tie gave way, showering me, the engine bay and the driveway with brake fluid, lol.

Ah well, you live and learn...
 
^ Yeh it is in a very silly place, I remember reading someone on this forum had a method to do it which involved loosening one of the engine mount and slightly lifting the engine up which then gives better access to bleed nipple.
 
exec said:
^ Yeh it is in a very silly place, I remember reading someone on this forum had a method to do it which involved loosening one of the engine mount and slightly lifting the engine up which then gives better access to bleed nipple.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I guess that was me :)
You can undo the bolts that hold the front engine support to the engine and then move it away a bit. It's enough to reach the damn nipple B)
 
Mine looks exactly the same as the one in your pic so guess it will need doing soon. I have never used an eezibleed before but looking at getting one - is it just a question of connecting it up and then loosen the bleed nipple to let the compressed Air Force the fluid through ? I take it during the process you don't need to touch the clutch pedal ?

Can a slave cylinder that's on it's was you give a heavy pedal ? Mine I think is a bit heavier than it probably should be
 
Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder and see if it's leaking fluid. If so, you'll need to replace it. I'm not sure a leaking slave cylinder would cause a heavy clutch. My symptoms were variable bite point, difficulty engaging gears some times and generally feeling squidgy!

Mine has a heavy clutch, although it is getting better through use. You can grease the
Pivot points on the clutch pedal, as well as greasing under the rubber boot of the clutch actuator which helped mine a lot!

Somewhere on the forum there is a diagram of how to adjust and grease the clutch pedal. I'll try and find it at some point soon.

I used the gunson eezibleed. One of the adapters does fit the clutch reservoir but you will need to use the two seals provided in the box (well I did anyway...) to get a good seal.

Just hook up the eezibleed to your spare tyre (no more than 20 psi) fill the bottle with fluid and loosen the nipple. They're really easy to use and no pumping the pedal. Note that you have to remove the cylinder (or the engine) to access the bleed nipple so be prepared to cable Tie across the piston or it will pop out under pressure.

Also, don't think you'll be doing any brake bleeding with the eezibleed unless you buy the universal adaptor, as it doesn't fit the brake fluid reservoir :(
 
Link to clutch pedal adjustment thread:

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/15729-clutch-biting-point-change/

TBH I didn't bother too much with all the official measurements. I turned the pushrod till I found a bite point that I liked, about halfway up the pedal travel, then made sure all the gears slipped in nicely. Final job is to tighten then back off the stop screw so you have a little free play in the pedal.



Look under boot at GREEN arrow to see if it's leaking fluid

Grease under rubber boot at RED arrow to help your heavy clutch issue

Cable tie across end of slave cylinder to prevent piston popping out, as shown in the following photo:



Try not to press the clutch pedal with the cable tie installed, as there's a lot of power in the hydraulic system and the cable tie might fail ;)
 
Had a quick look at this today, pulled back the boot on the lever arm with the red arrow I the pic above but couldn't see or feel the actual pivot point where to grease ? Or is it just a case of carefully spraying In some spray grease ?
 
If you get your finger in the rubber (oo-er) you'll be able to trace the mechanism back. Be careful though cos it's sharp in there! Alternatively just get some grease as far in as possible and hope for the best :)
 
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