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Damn. I think I've written off my Accord...

S

ship69

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'08 i-DTEC EX man 5D
Hi Guys

Bad news - my beloved Honda Accord & I were in a major smash last night. I am fine save a few scratches but I reckon the Accord is going to be a write-off.

My question is if I buy again, how good are the automatic versions?

My damaged Honda is (/was!) an Accord EX I-CDTI, 2.2 litre, diesel, estate, manual gear box. 2007 in quite good condition. But 120,000 miles on the clock.
I also put quite a lot of sound proofing into it, spending more money that I really wanted (over £1000).
I do a lot of motorway driving and fuel efficiency was pretty good. Doing a steady 80 on the speedo it used to claim about 51MPG, but would do about 500-525 miles on a tank...

Anyhow,
1) What do you think the insurance company ("LV") will give me for it? (***uming it does get written off)
2) How much less fuel efficient are the automatic versions of the Accord?
3) Also, how well do automatic versions cope with being re-mapped?

With thanks

J
 
Can't answer your questions, but dude, that sucks. I'm glad you're ok. Was the smash related to the snow?
 
sorry to hear that news.

regarding a pay out, what is the car insured for? my policy says mine is at 4,000. now if i have a claim whether they pay that its all up in the air, thankfully i have never made any claims in my years driving.
 
Stevearcade said:
Was the smash related to the snow?
Click to expand...

In all honesty, no. Not directly at least. The roads where heavy with traffic trying to avoid the snow coming but it wasnt actually snowing.

No, it was one of those situations where the traffic is doing stop-start 'peristalsis' (how an earth worm moves!)... stopping and starting to quite high speeds and the guy ahead stopped quite quickly and I must have been distracted for a second fiddling with the radio but I failed to stop and hit him at a fair old speed.

Being stuck in my car for 3 hours at 0 Deg C, with no engine running wasnt great either.

Also the police cleared off very quickly leaving us in rather a dangerious spot. We were on a grass verge of a very fast dual carriage way with no hard shoulder, and on a slightly blind corner...
 
in that case you would be at fault, the guy you drove into can claim against your insurance ?

again, i might not be right here but from what you say...
 
That's s**** luck dude, but how bad was the damage, did airbags fire or whatnot, being written off can be done various ways but it is mainly costs or safety that are the factors. if the guy in front claims from you, you might see the car being repaired instead of getting a cash payout for it??

You need to talk to the insurance company once their ***essor sees it :(
 
toffee_pie said:
in that case you would be at fault, the guy you drove into can claim against your insurance ?

again, i might not be right here but from what you say...
Click to expand...


That is pretty obvious but this is not the place to discuss it. Christ the dust hasn't even settled.


In reply to the OP, I would look through Autotrader and see what similar spec cars with that mileage are going for and print any that you see so you can throw back at your insurance company when they send you a derogatory offer.
 
Mr Honda said:
That's s**** luck dude, but how bad was the damage, did airbags fire or whatnot, being written off can be done various ways but it is mainly costs or safety that are the factors. if the guy in front claims from you, you might see the car being repaired instead of getting a cash payout for it??

You need to talk to the insurance company once their ***essor sees it :(
Click to expand...


A car is written off if the total cost of the repairs exceeds 60% of the value of the car no matter how the accident happened, There are no deciding factors.

With insurers using there own approved repairers who seem to have a licence to charge what they like a small bump and damaged bumper can potentially write off a car these days. :(
 
Well yeah the other guy will claim from your insurance, so your insurance will pay out for both cars. That's what insurance is for though right? These things happen, bit of a bugger when they do but at least everyone was unharmed.

I'd imagine LV would offer you about £20 to start with, they usually do. I think most people decline the first 2 or 3 offers at least. I've never done it myself though. Apparently it helps to look at adverts for similar cars in similar condition, keep records of as many as you can and use that to get a rough value for your car.
 
Hope your ok pal, main thing is that no one was hurt too badly.
Not sure really, what are they worth on the trader at the moment?
 
Most insurance companies use the Glasses guide to value a car, unsurprisingly this is also the guide which will return the cheapest value. As said get some adverts with comparable adds, and when I say comparable I mean ones that don't have 50k less miles than yours or are 3 years younger otherwise they will just ignore them. Also try and get some other price guides such as Parkers, or magazines with lists of prices in them, they will be closer to market value and will add weight to your point. The more weight you can add to your argument the better. Generally, as said, they write a car off when repair costs exceed 60% of market value but this figure can change depending on the company, some will write off at 50%. Lastly if they don't behave in a manner which is professional don't be afraid to make a complaint in writing. They will always behave better when things are in writing and on the record in case it is escalated to the ombudsman.
 
Brian showed me a link last year that calculated a cars current value vs its orignal price, it was accurate enough. but yeah insurance companies will give you the least amount possible so it is worth getting as much information as you can now.
 
Hope your ok and gutted for you.
As for the auto box I presume you mean the 8th gen.
Around town you will get around 30-35 mpg and on a run about 40.
The manual gearbox diesel is very good on a run and you can expect around 50-60 mpg
 
Gutted for you mate... get a manual its cheaper and get more mpg!!! trust me autoboxes drop mpg... my gf toyota is quite thirsty for a 1.0 litre... my 7 gen accord uses less fuel that her 1.0, mine is a diesel though....
 
Sorry to hear the troubles mate. Glad you're OK!!!!
 
That's terrible news, but as already said - just be grateful you are ok. I also hope the other party wasn't badly injured.

No idea on values on current car.. i would say if you want to stick with an Accord, you could do a lot worse than the IDTEC Auto. I've not heard any horror stories yet (apart from failed DPF's which is to be expected, and some EGR problems on higher mileage cars). The Auto box seems to be strong.. I'm not sure if the economy side of things is as good as the manual ICTDI though
 
brett said:
As for the auto box I presume you mean the 8th gen.
Around town you will get around 30-35 mpg and on a run about 40.
The manual gearbox diesel is very good on a run and you can expect around 50-60 mpg
Click to expand...

Erm no I was hoping to get a 7th gen diesel car i.e. the same age as mine - although I am now wondering if Honda didnt actually make 7th gen automatics. I need to do more research, clearly!

But I am confused about the automatic vs. manual debate. Givent that I will be mostly doing about 75-80% of my driving on motorways...
- are you really saying that the automatic will lose 10 to 20MPG ?(!) If so where does all the energy go - does the gearbox get hot? Or is it that there are fewer gears and/or the gear ratios are rubbish.

- Also can you re-map automatics without problem?

I ended up spending quite a lot on my manual Honda Accord after getting a remap because it needed a new clutch in order to take the torque. The manual car that I just crashed would do 50-60MPG (claimed on the on-board computer) at motorway speeds. I never quite worked it out... but all I used to get was about 550 miles on a tank, so I ***ume the on-board computer was rather optimistic. All in all I was pretty pleased with my Honda Accord (estate), although in the end I *hated* the expensive 'racing' clutch as recommended on this site. (Fwiw, it came from a specialist clutch manufacturers based somewhere like Leeds). It was fine at speed but it was a pig to drive in town as it would often get into a shuddering jerk if you didnt rev it enough when changing gear. Basically horrible although at least it stopped the clutch from slipping!

J
 
Sorry bud, no automatic iCTDI.
 
Dan Robinson said:
Sorry bud, no automatic iCTDI.
Click to expand...

Drat.

But there is a Series 7 version, right.
So can anyhone point me to a good review of listing of differences between the Series 7 and Series 8 Honda Accord?
How well was Series 8 well received?
 
8th gen IDTEC is a totally different car, new chassis platform and Euro 5 engine with new Piezo injection system. I would go and test drive one to see if you like it.

Yes you can remap an auto IDTEC without issue, although not really suitable for a mobile tune (unless you can provide a clean area to work from with 240v power supply for a few hours).

Regarding the clutch, i think you went for the 6 paddle clutch which is all that was available at the time. They've now introduced an 8 paddle to get around that very problem you describe. Again it's never going to be as good as the original in terms of pedal feel, but it has improved on the problem a lot.
 
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