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Diesel tourer no power again!

As Jon said it vital you undo the bleed screw to let excess air out until you get clean fuel.
This might take a few goes as any trapped air will work its way to the highest point in time.
An easy example is trapped air in a central heating system at home.
 
Hi everyone , I updated that I meet up with fahad who did my car remap 3/4 years ago, and the car tonight jump to stage 2 with EGR VALVE deleted! Run the test, and it's the boost leak somewhere, so I may book a mechanic to check through, the car still running fast with power holding all the way through when I took the 80 miles round trip. I hope the clutch will be ok for this remap..
 
luckboy16138 said:
Hi everyone , I updated that I meet up with fahad who did my car remap 3/4 years ago, and the car tonight jump to stage 2 with EGR VALVE deleted! Run the test, and it's the boost leak somewhere, so I may book a me chino to check through, the car still running fast with power holding all the way through when I took the 80 miles round trip. I hope the clutch will be ok for this remap..
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It won't be.

Good luck in finding the boost leak.
 
Jon, as long as I don't hammer the peddle, will it be all right? The clutch I believe is still original, the car is on it's 100k, and it's sill very strong..
 
Jon_G said:
It won't be.

Good luck in finding the boost leak.
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+1 here - the original clutch won't take this abuse for long.
 
luckboy16138 said:
Jon, as long as I don't hammer the peddle, will it be all right? The clutch I believe is still original, the car is on it's 100k, and it's sill very strong..
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The original Honda clutch was inadequate for the standard output... you've been lucky to get this far!

Stage 2 will almost certainly cause the clutch to slip and probably ruin the DMF. I really don't want to put you off the remap, but do budget for a replacement clutch.
 
There are greater clutch risks with Stage 2 as discussed Ray, but you can always knock it back down to Stage 1 EGR OFF if you feel you are having issues.

It's either a boost leak or a MAP sensor issue, but just have all the pipework inspected as the issue seems very minor.
 
I had the car booked in for mechanic to check in boost leak issue, let's wait and see what happen? What the car at the moment shows no sign of lack of power, in fact towing the trailer uphill is a lot easier than before, for the clutch, let's find out how long is going to last, will update this mate..
Thanks fahad, I hope I enjoy the remap all the way... Good chap you are mate..
 
No probs, I've seen the way your drive and I think the car will probably outlast you :lol:
 
F6HAD said:
No probs, I've seen the way your drive and I think the car will probably outlast you :lol:
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Fahad, do you mean the car live longer than me? Lol! If that's the case, I don't mind to own it for my life!
 
Yes!! because you drive like a granny pulling a caravan.
 
Ok, I report that the car today had been checked, and the mechanic couldn't find any boost leak, so the guys who actually drove the car out for test, he said about sluggish sometime when he put feet down, once pick up the power is alright...
 
If there's a problem you won't be seeing the full gain Ray. I know you've changed the air filter since then and that's made a big difference?
 
I've change fuel filter and this morning change air filter too, and I notice the acceleration has slightly improved, inspect map sensor and IMRC valve, nothing unusual, so I just give bit of time to see if the issue goes away.. Cheers guys.
 
Ok everyone, let's sum up my issue of the car, it was eventually the EGR valve problem!!
Friend of mate is mechanic for Mercedes diesel department who really know the comment problem of diesel car, when he test drive the car, he suspicious for the EGR valve, and he use a piece of metal plate actually blocked the end of inlet manifold which goes back to the engine.. Now, the car issue cured. Been running 2 days without any lack of power and with the stage 2 remap from fahad, the boost over 1500 rmp is amazing... I hope this will help anyone who own diesel accord and can sort their problem out,
I do feel unacceptable that I paid for brand new EGR valve and only could work just 20k miles...well, I hope this car don't ever have lack of power issues

Ray
 
I'm just glad its sorted mate and there are no errors as he's fitted the plate in the correct place. It's unbelievable that a brand new £650 EGR valve from Honda failed at just over 20k miles though.
 
He said to me, nearly most diesel car had their EGR valve went wrong, and this happen to his diesel ford modeo, he actually changed 2 EGR valves over 2 years time and the third year he use same methods, metal plate backed off, since then no extra issues.
He also said the EGR valves were mostly rubbish the reason it expensive from honda may be the part made from Germany song they sent back to japan to recheck then sent back yo there that make more cost?
 
luckboy16138 said:
Ok everyone, let's sum up my issue of the car, it was eventually the EGR valve problem!!
Friend of mate is mechanic for Mercedes diesel department who really know the comment problem of diesel car, when he test drive the car, he suspicious for the EGR valve, and he use a piece of metal plate actually blocked the end of inlet manifold which goes back to the engine.. Now, the car issue cured...
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If I had access to a diesel mechanic who really knows all the problems with diesel cars, then I think I would have asked him to fix it in the first place! :rolleyes:

But I'm glad it's fixed at last.
 
F6HAD said:
I'm just glad its sorted mate and there are no errors as he's fitted the plate in the correct place. It's unbelievable that a brand new £650 EGR valve from Honda failed at just over 20k miles though.
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I thought that completely blanking off the EGR valve would bring up the MIL, even with the Elite 'EGR off' map?

I remember another TA member doing this and having a problem (something to do with the baseline 4.7% baseline flow?) .
 
Jon_G said:
If I had access to a diesel mechanic who really knows all the problems with diesel cars, then I think I would have asked him to fix it in the first place! :rolleyes:

But I'm glad it's fixed at last.
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Hi Jon, I only know him a week ago before I get booked somewhere.i was thinking Holdcroft honda after local honda let me down on booking ..he is nice chap...
And as far as i know, he is crazy driver too lol..
 
Jon_G said:
I thought that completely blanking off the EGR valve would bring up the MIL, even with the Elite 'EGR off' map?

I remember another TA member doing this and having a problem (something to do with the baseline 4.7% baseline flow?) .
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Ammmm, so far no light us on the dashboard but I'll wait to see, I'll post a pic if what he done to it, he had magic hand lol!
 
luckboy16138 said:
Hi Jon, I only know him a week ago before I get booked somewhere.i was thinking Holdcroft honda after local honda let me down on booking ..he is nice chap...
And as far as i know, he is crazy driver too lol..
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It's great that you've found a good mechanic... hold onto his phone number, just in case!
 
Well, he is still young but he is mature mechanic as he work 10 years in Mercedes.ill get hold of his number, I'm sure he would love a bit of work outside his company as is quick money too..
 
I report I having other issue, I can smell fuel in the car and when I open bonnet more stronger smell coming from engine bay, it just like when the exhaust manifold cracked, but I had that replaced 2 years ago under warrantee.. :-( what's wrong..
 
Jon its different egr control on the civic/facelift accord with vac operated valve and pre facelift accord with electric valve.

Recently however we've introduced manual P code deletion if required for the more extreme cases.

We prefer not to have to do any P code deletion as you want to keep the integrity of the ecu logic in tact especially as cars get sold on and it can make diagnostics a nightmare for future owners trying to fault find.
 
F6HAD said:
Jon its different egr control on the civic/facelift accord with vac operated valve and pre facelift accord with electric valve.

Recently however we've introduced manual P code deletion if required for the more extreme cases.

We prefer not to have to do any P code deletion as you want to keep the integrity of the ecu logic in tact especially as cars get sold on and it can make diagnostics a nightmare for future owners trying to fault find.
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Hi Fahad, thanks for the reply. You may have noticed that there's a guy selling EGR blanking plates for the later i-CTDi on Civinfo... http://www.civinfo.com/forum/items-sale/105096-egr-blanking-plates-sale.html (link probably won't work for non-members) but I do worry about people fitting these plates without having an appropriate map. He (HUB) recommends SP Tuning who do a cheapish P code deletion fix, but I think many potential buyers would prefer to use your services? Many Civic owners have been customers of yours and might like to have these blanking plates fitted, but are unsure of whether this would be OK.
 
I'm aware of it Jon but truth is we are engine tuners and whilst we offer things like DPF and egr deletion as preventative measures, we don't want to get sucked into problem finding and trying to correct problems with maps..

If someone wants to sell cheap map files to try and address a specific problem then they are welcome to do it. I don't know whether their solution works or not I've not seen it.

We prefer to work with healthy vehicles so we can be confident of the result.
 
Glad,that you sorted problem.Long time ago I done the same with metal plate,but till I made revs 2000,engine light comes on.Maybe plate was in wrong place.If you can,take photo,I want to see,where you put.
 
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