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DIY - Brake discs and pads change 03+ (updated)

Great tips Phil and QB1 much obliged.

Halfords sell car specific brake cleaner in the store Dan.
 
Cheers bud! Gearing up for some DIY:lol:
 
Read all this with interest - only one question before i have a go, do i really need a rewind tool for the front calipers and will the cheap one from Halfords do the trick or are the left and right sides different threads which needs two different threads. Reason i ask is that when i have done this job in the past on my Imprezzas i could just push the pistons back (allowing for overflow on the cylinder)

Dare I ask - replace with standard parts or look to after market ?

If after market - which - i'm not looking for anything other than OEM stopping power!

Thanks

T.
 
No tourer pistons will simply push back so g clamp or the like will suffice.

Loads of pads available and I used most in my accord ownership.

It all depends on what you want from your brakes really.
 
Front calipers on both saloon and tourer are simply push back pistons. Only saloon rears need wind back tool.
 
Judt changed rear disc's yesterday!

Disassemble and ***embley in 1hr 20mins.

Wouldn't have been possible without this guide and the impact driver!!
 
When you change the rear discs on a tourer is there any faffing around needed with the parking brake? I ***ume you need to adjust the handbrake a few notches?
 
Dan Robinson said:
When you change the rear discs on a tourer is there any faffing around needed with the parking brake? I ***ume you need to adjust the handbrake a few notches?
Click to expand...

Dan, you shouldn't need to as the drums don't wear. If they do they're dead easy to adjust, through the rubber bung in the disc.
 
Cheers bud.... been a loooong time since I played with a drum brake :lol:

Might even brave a full brake fluid change too....
 
Don't think there are any pictures up for the tourer's so will try to remember to take some...
 
I didn't touch mine, did struggle to get the discs off tho ended up using 2 bolts in the 2 holes of the disc as you wind them in it pushes the disc off the hub.
 
Yeah - I have been pondering where to find the bolts... 8x1.25mm I think.

Do you have to take off the hub cap and spindle nut too?
 
Top marks for these intructions, followed them to the letter and didnt have any issues replacing the discs and pads on my 57 plate tourer. Only thing I would say is that the impact driver was a real must, i couldnt have done the job without one.

T.
 
Hi Chaps! All set to attempt this myself (front and rear pads and discs).

Just a quick question regarding the impact driver/carrier screws.....................do they serve a purpose? Can I reinstall without these if I knacker up the screws upon removal (as I don't have an impact driver). As I see it would the wheel bolts not hold everything in position anyway??

Sorry if this sounds stupid to some of you!

Cheers

Carl
 
Had a spare morning - so started this job - what a nightmare - Got rear callipers off but couldn't get the caliper bracket off whatsoever!!

An
 
Rob said:
Dan,............ ....... ...... ... wear. If they do they're dead easy to adjust, through the rubber bung in the disc.
Click to expand...

I thought that you had to take the central console apart (inbetween the driver and passenger seat) to access the adjustment screw to alter the handbrake, is there an easier way you could expand on Dan?
 
Hi, very good guide here.

I have done this a few times now on my saloon. Discs and pads all round. Luckily I have had an impact driver for over 30 years.

First time I did not have any winding tool and made a tool from cutting the end of a cheap flat multi-spanner that was lying in the bottom of a tool box. This turned it into a type of screwdriver that locked in to the slots in the caliper piston. The rear off side was a pain to wind back at first but it went with some applied effort. I have used this tool more than once with success. However, the last time I changed the pads I bought the 3/8 drive cube from Draper

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-52334-8-Inch-Square-Caliper/dp/B0001K9V0E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1325542634&sr=1-1

This tool did not fit until I cut two pins off the side with four pins. It then worked perfectly with the 3/8 ratchet attached.

My son has an Audi A3 (2004) 2.0TDi. He was home from the forces when he needed to change his rear pads. He bought a wind back tool and this made the job much easier, I will be buying my own.

The Audi pads were down to the metal on one side and we stripped this off first only to find GSF in Lincoln had given him the wrong replacement pads. When I saw his old pads I recognised these were identical to those on my Accord. I had some part worn pads in the garage that we put in while he went back to GSF and exchange for the correct pads. I wonder how many cars use these pads?
 
Just a quick note to say thanks for this.

Did the rears on my 2007 saloon this afternoon and just registered now to say cheers!
 
hi guys is this video a good DIY of how to change the rear brake pads on a 7th gen honda accord. I need to get mine done,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBlISfRjEOk
 
^not on the rears. Pretty sure they must be wound in. I always open the bleed valve on the caliper before pushing in the piston. Stops old fluid from going back up into the system.
 
^hmmm, when i did mine they needed a good few turns to start moving back,.
 
i found out saloon 2.4 is a different calliper to the 2.4 touer, maybe that explains it?
 
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