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DIY - Brake discs and pads change 03+ (updated)

I think the tourer has a more ballsy hand brake in the expectation of more weight in the rear with loading and what not. Makes sense I guess.
 
Hi,

I cannot free the front disc from the hub..... even by bashing it with a hammer from behind. The philips screws gave me a big bother too and I had drilled the heads off (didn't have an impact driver and it was not issues last time around - I previously only tightened it with a screwdriver lightly as well...).

There are 2 bolt screws in the disc which allows the disc to separate from the hub - the front caliper retaining bolts seem too big. Does anyone know if the rear caliper retaining bolt fits? If so I'll have to buy them from the dealer which is not a problem. I feel as if I am getting too old and impatient for it to go wrong...

Many thanks.
 
Did you bash it from the front on edge? Maybe squirt liberal amount of wd40 behind if possible.

BTW two things I'd like to mention, ceratec grease is recommended in place of copper grease as they can play up with the ABS sensor from what I read and not really suitable for modern cars. Secondly when pushing the piston back you can just open the bleed valve and obviously have a tube and bottle to collect the fluid.
 
No I didn't hit the disc from the leading edge, just from behind the disc as it would be natural to hit from the rear surface in the hope of moving the disc surface away from the hub.
 
Try the technique on this vid from 7:00 onwards

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QO2Z9AZaeY
 
Thanks for that, I'll try to whack it from the front - will allow me to hit it a bit harder.
 
Didn't work!!! I hapened to find the correct bolts and used it to free the disc. It was easy peasy with the bolts. I wonder why Honda stopped supplying it??
 
I need help guys...
http://youtu.be/i9XJh6xEmLQ
I can't seem to get the piston to retract any further and doing a test fit there won't be enough room for pads and rotor
What am I doing wrong?
 
Has it retracted at all? I've got the tool for turning them back and it also presses whilst it turns.


Can you move the piston out with the cable lever arm to see if there is maybe an issue with the mechanism? Squeeze the lever arm with your pipe pliers against the caliper body/cable bracket a few times and see if the piston moves out (it should move straight out and not rotate.)
 
Yeah it moves out and does not rotate.
So do I need a proper tool that also presses and rotates at the same time I thought it just needed to be rotated. Also for those that know how far in it should be I take it when the video stops and the last image shows how far out the piston is that I should be able to move it further back? Does it stop spinning when you retract it fully?
 
I don't know for sure that it has to be pushed/pressed.

This is the tool I have http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1314-Caliper-Piston-Re-wind/dp/B002V72SHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391374799&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+wind+back+tool

If you are putting new pads in then the piston has to be almost flush as there will be quite a bit of meat on the new pads. The notch(es) also has to be correctly aligned so that pad 'key' slips into it.

IMG_1770t.jpg


IMG_1772t.jpg
 
Thanks Andy, got the tool and it retracted.
Now I'm stuck at the handbrake... how do I remove it from the caliper?
I've taken out the small C clip piece but have no idea on what to do next I cant get the end of the cable off the hook
 
Many thanks to Alnug for this DIY!

Just put new front pads on. If I'd realised just how easy it was I'd have done it ages ago! It was literally quicker to do it at home than take it to a garage. Not to mention less expensive. And more satisfying :p
 
On the rears, you do need to push in the piston at the same time as you rotate it clockwise. Best to use a windback tool as this makes it much easier to twist and push in at the same time.

As mentioned above, avoid using copper grease. Use ceratec grease - more friendly with rubber covers etc.

Whenever you take the brakes apart, always give every contact surface a good scrub with a wire brush. Use compressed air to blow out any dust. Also a good idea to use brake cleaner spray.
 
^^Well done Matt. Very rewarding when you DIY jobs like this
 
Brilliant guide, I changed rear discs + pads without issues except for one;

On one wheel, one of the screws in the disc wouldn't even come off with an impact driver! It snapped the bit in the process too... So as there were two of us doing this we made a gigantic screwdriver ratchet extension, used our spare #3 bit and one of us pushed the head in and the other turned. The screw came loose with an almighty crack and bent the spare bit - the screw was unharmed but I've got some screwdriver head shopping to do.
 
Gents and Ladies, I'm having trouble finding rear pads for my 07 Tourer as all the local suppliers provide the saloon pads with the caliper piston location pip. Anyone got any idea as to where I can get them, online retailers don't seem to be aware that there's a difference.

TIA
 
Eurocarparts sell them. Look for ones that say CN2 in the description as that is the estate
 
Great write up.

One thing. I'm having a complete nightmare getting the right pads for the rear of my Tourer. Ive been to Eurocarparts (for the last time) 3 times because they keep selling me the wrong parts. I had bought the Eicher rear pads, but the steel backing was bigger and would not slot into the caliper bracket.

Any reccomendations?
 
Hello everyone - Long time no posty!

So....I'm looking at taking the plunge into changing me discs and pads for the first time. This right up looks great and I'll hopefully be in a position to do this myself soon.

I've just had a quote from a local part place and they have quoted me £192 for new discs and pads all round. Does that seem right as I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to car parts?

Thanks!
 
Hello, I had all 4 discs and pads changed 3 months ago. I paid 300 and that included a service too. So I suspect around 180-200 is what I paid for the discs and pads. Last month I heard a screeching sound when reversing. Turns out the rear ns caliper was jammed shut and the pad worn on the disc. Took it back to garage and forked out another 150 for a caliper and set of rear pads. Now I've learned from this forum that the rear caliper on the tourer is problematic, what I don't know is if as part of their change of discs and pads they should have done something different to prevent the caliper from sticking. I'm sure this garage is costing me more money than necessary. I've already had to replace the service parts with genuine parts as they used aftermarket filters causing all sorts of poor running issues.
 
On another note next time I would personally buy branded parts myself and just get the garage to fit them. That way you know you are getting decent parts. Brakes international are reasonable for quality brakes but they are in Rochdale tho
 
ok guys, i have a few jobs to do on the Accord i just took ownership of.

rear discs and pads being the first.
no worries about me doing this but i wanted to ask if this piston windback tool looks suitable... and more specifically the pin spacing on the tool.... does anyone know if this will sit on the piston and engage in the slots correctly??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401137183763?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

it says distance between pin centres is 22mm or 32mm

thanks in advance.
 
Martink said:
ok guys, i have a few jobs to do on the Accord i just took ownership of.

rear discs and pads being the first.
no worries about me doing this but i wanted to ask if this piston windback tool looks suitable... and more specifically the pin spacing on the tool.... does anyone know if this will sit on the piston and engage in the slots correctly??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401137183763?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

it says distance between pin centres is 22mm or 32mm
thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Hi,

that should do the trick or you can buy this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PISTON-REWIND-CALIPER-WIND-BACK-TOOL-KIT-22-PCS-21PCS-34PCS-SERVICE-/261304111592?hash=item3cd6f051e8:g:lZkAAOSw0fhXmhQP

If its a one off job you can remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, open the bleed screw with a tube connected in a jar in of brake fluid so no air enters system and this stops crud being force backed into the ABS module to prevent from flipping the master cylinder seals. Also if rear caliper has handbrake then wind in instead of out to avoid ge to mechanism.
Then you can use a wood piece and pry with a claw hammer, screwdriver, g clamp or pry bar.
In the honda accord 2003 has the handbrake shoes inside rear drum so you wind back caliper and replace pads, ensure there is free movement a lot of people have had to slightly file or grind the pad to ensure perfect fit, if they catch and stick the pads will wear premature.
 
DNKimage said:
Great write up.

One thing. I'm having a complete nightmare getting the right pads for the rear of my Tourer. Ive been to Eurocarparts (for the last time) 3 times because they keep selling me the wrong parts. I had bought the Eicher rear pads, but the steel backing was bigger and would not slot into the caliper bracket.

Any reccomendations?
Click to expand...
The brake pad needs to be filed down slightly, try a different set of pads i used trw and they fitted straight in although one side did need grinding on the face.
 
f2raf said:
Hello, I had all 4 discs and pads changed 3 months ago. I paid 300 and that included a service too. So I suspect around 180-200 is what I paid for the discs and pads. Last month I heard a screeching sound when reversing. Turns out the rear ns caliper was jammed shut and the pad worn on the disc. Took it back to garage and forked out another 150 for a caliper and set of rear pads. Now I've learned from this forum that the rear caliper on the tourer is problematic, what I don't know is if as part of their change of discs and pads they should have done something different to prevent the caliper from sticking. I'm sure this garage is costing me more money than necessary. I've already had to replace the service parts with genuine parts as they used aftermarket filters causing all sorts of poor running issues.
Click to expand...
Hi there is an issue with the rear pads sticking.

i bought my discs and pads from http://www.mtecbrakes.com/ as i had sticky calipers i ended up replacing with refurburshed ones from http://brakeparts.co.uk/ it has been around 6 months no issues, the only thing to note sometimes the pad needs to filed to ensure the pad can move freely. Prior to this my rear pads kept wearing as they were sticking when warm and felt like handbrake was on when stopped on slopes.
 
Just replaced my front pads, but my brakes feel a bit spongy. Also when the car is on and I pump the brakes, the pedal becomes hard but if I keep it pressed it goes all the way down. When the car is off and I do this then the pedal remains firm.
I had to take some brake fluid out as whwn I was pushing the pistons back the brakw fluid level almost overflowed. The level on the brake fluid is at max at the moment.
Anyonw know if the pad just needs bedding in or if this is a seperate issue? Brakes were fine before.
I've been driving around and the brakes are working ok....it's just that the pedal goes all the way down if i keep pressure applied to the brakes.
 
I would bleed all brakes before doing anything else

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