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DIY - EGR passageways & valve cleaning 2.2i-ctdi

Danger Mouse

Danger Mouse

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Location
Huddersfield
Car
2.2 i-ctdi Tourer
Tools required:
Socket set, Lollypop sticks / flat screw driver, Latex gloves, old toothbrush, kitchen roll & white spirit.

The link pipe, manifold plenum, butterfly valve block and CAC elbow are very easy to get to. I found a lot of gunk in the manifold plenum and butterfly valve block.
Remove the plastic engine top cover and remove the stand off that is in the CAC elbow, there is a bracket and plug attached to this.
There are 2 bolts and 1 stud that go through the CAC elbow and valve block undo these and the vacumm hose and completly revoe the valve block for cleaning. Be carfull not to damage the st/st gaskets and put the in a safe place to reuse.
This might look dry & dusty but underneath it's sticky goo, wear gloves.
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Attached to the manifold there is a link pipe that comes from the EGR cooler, remove the two nuts at either end and remove looking after the two gaskets, this pipe might only have a small amount of soot inside, not worth cleaning.
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Now you can see the extent of any build up of gunk in the Manifold, the link pipe bolts up to the manifold but it seems to join up to a chamber / plenum and then go through the valve block. Use the lolly stick or screw driver to carfully dig out the gunk.

Reassemble and make sure all the electrical connectors are plugged back in and the vacumm pipe is re-attached. Put all the gaskets back in too then tighten up the nut good and tight.

EGR valve to follow.
 
Ian, thanks for putting this up.

Quick note to all members, please do not comment in the DIY unless you have a specific and relevant question or point to make.

All irrelevant posts will be deleted.
 
I think it applies to facelift diesel only, please confirm. Facefilt models have vacuum operated EGR, in pre-facelift ones it is an electrical part. If Im wrong, bin my reply:))
Dan
 
Yes, to confirm - Ian's car is a pre facelift.
 
Done this today - good write ups by both guys- quick question tho - should I be able to physically move a part within the egr to prove that it's not stuck??
CheersCarl
 
CarlStew72 said:
Anyone ***ist with the above?
Click to expand...

Nope, you won't be able to move it manually (well the solenoid operated one). If you put 12V across the left and right pins it should fly open though.
 
Okay, clearly I am an idiot as loads of you guys seem to have managed to get to the EGR for cleaning... But I can't for the life of me work out how to remove the air box! I just know I'm going to feel silly when someone tells me how it's done... :p
 
There are 2 x 10mm bolts that hold it and one push rubber. Undo the bolts first remove the piping and just pull
 
Tbh to get the EGR out I remove the battery as well to create space
 
Thanks guys, spot on - I'd found the two bolts, just didn't have the guts to give it a good hard tug. EGR removed, but to be honest was really pretty clean so have left it alone and re-fitted. Reason for all this is a feeling that the turbo is kicking in late sometimes, particularly in 2nd where it might get almost to 3k revs before it starts to pull. Clutch would seem ok, as the revs rise steadily along with the speed, just without the turbo surge I'm used to... Friend with a TD Vectra SRi suggested vacuum hose, but I hear that's a pretty rare problem with the Accord. Anything else I might try before a trip to a garage?
 
If the turbo is "slow" to react in that it seems to take a second to actually get going, then there's a few possibilities:

1. IMRC (intake manifold runner control)
2. ERV / FSV valve
3. Turbo vanes sticking
4. EGR valve sticking

Now you've check the EGR valve and it's clean - did you check the IMRC?
 
I've cleared out the intake manifold and cleaned the butterfly valve; some sticky stuff but not that bad considering. The MAP sensor seemed a little gunked up, but I only have brake cleaner spray in my kit so didn't want to try using that. Good idea to get some proper cleaning fluid and try that next?
 
Hmmm. No harm cleaning the MAP alright, do it seem that the turn is late to engage rather than slow?

That is the turbo should kick in around 1500 rpm does it?
 
Hmmm. No harm cleaning the MAP alright, do it seem that the turn is late to engage rather than slow?

That is the turbo should kick in around 1500 rpm does it?
 
Yes, late to kick in - when it does, it seems fine. Doesn't seem to kick in until 2,500 - 3,000 revs though... 2nd gear is particularly noticeable, though not sure why that would be the case...
 
jayok said:
Nope, you won't be able to move it manually (well the solenoid operated one). If you put 12V across the left and right pins it should fly open though.
Click to expand...
Can this be done using straight from the battery terminals or do you need a specific power supply? and if so, which pins exactly? there are a few on the connector
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgFY10NgMtk
 
Use carb cleaner and petrol. Consider having the EGR blanked and Stage 1 EGR OFF installed for a permanent solution. The car will be totally transformed.
 
Blanking the EGR valvle, what affect does it have. Performance, emission etc??
 
Smoother and cleaner engine, better performance and potential for improved mpg
 
I provide a mobile service, drop me a line for details.
 
I shall get in touch once I have had the exhaust manifold welded and the intake decoked!
 
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