Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Eml On(p0340) Hard To Start

Amberci

Amberci

Members
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Bournemouth
Car
Accord
Hello Everyone! Just bought my self a Honda! B) Its an 2004 Accord 2.2i CTDI with 120000miles on the clock. The car run fine but sadly it doesnt start like it should. I was starting the car multiple times today and it takes 2,3,5,6 seconds to start. I think its starting better when warm... well it grab few time straight away. Also there is an eml on which shows up like code p0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit(Bank 1 or single Sensor). I was trying to find some info about that but no luck :( Can anyone help to sort that out? How to locate that sensor and is it hard to replace? Can it be just a week battery?As I have an MOT log which show that car done less than 2000 miles last year. Finally, how to remove/reset eml from dash?
 
Before changing the sensor I suggest deleting the P0340 diagnostic trouble code to see if it returns (and therefore 'proves' that this is a active problem)... this will also reset the EML. You will need an OBD2 reader to do this, so either buy one (i.e. from eBay) or get someone to do this for you. But how do you know it's a P0340 problem without a reader?
 
Before changing the sensor I suggest deleting the P0340 diagnostic trouble code to see if it returns (and therefore 'proves' that this is a active problem)... this will also reset the EML. You will need an OBD2 reader to do this, so either buy one (i.e. from eBay) or get someone to do this for you. But how do you know it's a P0340 problem without a reader?
Click to expand...
I have a EML327 bluetooth scanner which I paired with my phone :) I dont really know is there an option to reset EML, I'll have a look.

Just came back after a short trip and I am now sure there is no difference between starting from cold or hot.
 
The ELM 327 can delete DTCs... are you using the Torque app? Obviously your cam sensor could be playing up, which may affect starting, but there are more common reasons for poor starting. I've never replaced a cam sensor, but it looks a simple job as the sensor is easy to get at (near fuel pump... from memory I think removal of the airbox would help).

EuroCarParts sell cam sensors for these engines, including an OEM Bosch one. If you do buy one then try the discount codes 'spring30' or 'civinfo25'.
 
Thanks Jon for Your reply. ;) Yes I'm using Torque app. You mentioned that the are more common reasons for poor starting. Can You name few? Starting from worst case...
 
Blocked fuel filter, weak battery and sticking egr valve.. More serious problems include pressure relief valve on the side of the fuel rail, bad injector/s or high pressure pump..
 
I have managed to reset EML. My first step was reseting EML without starting the car, which came back as soon as started it. Second thing I tried was to reset EML on a running engine. Now theres no error codes and no EML on the dash, but the starting problem remains.

Speaking about the Battery, I tried to measure the voltage and here are the results: Accord 12.2(which in an hour time became 12.1)
Avensis 12.7(I have replaced the battery just few weeks ago)
Both cars are giving charge at ~14.5. I wanted to put Avensis battery to Accord but there is one thing I'm worrie about. Is there a code for a headunit if I disconect the battery?

Does any one know how to test a camshaft position sensor and a pressure relief valve on the side of the fuel rail? What things do I need to buy to perform a leakback test?

Thank you for your help in advance.
 
Swap the batteries... head unit doesn't need codes. Battery should stay over 12.5v, even after overnight (unless something on your car is causing an unexpected drain?).

There is a lot of advice if you search the forum... I and others have contributed a lot of advice of leak-back and rail valve leak testing. Because of a software problem I can't insert links, or I would! But try substituting the battery first.

Camshaft position sensor can only be properly tested using an oscilloscope. You could use a multimeter/ohmmeter to check that there is a circuit through the sensor, but that wouldn't prove that the output has the necessary amplitude/voltage (e.g. the sensor might have shorted turns). But, if the can't find a circuit through the sensor, then it has gone open-circuit and needs replacing.
 
You really need to use a load tester on the battery to give an accurate reading status of the battery. There could be a duff cell in the battery, a load tester should find this.
 
Hello again to Everyone! ;) Swapping the batteries gave zero result. The EML came back, tried to reset but it shows up every time I cut off the engine and start it again. Same fault p0340...
I'm not giving up that soon :p I now have an idea to swap Camshaft Position Sensor with my friends accord, which is the same car, just one year younger. The question is how? As I understand it a 10mm socket to unscrew and disconnect the plug? The sensor is near air filter box with 2 wires?
 
Swapping seems like a good plan. I can't find any info on this in my workshop manual, but it looks an easy job... Please let us know!
 
Hi. Been working on a car today. My friend came with his accord and we swapped the Camshaft position sensors. Sadly there's no result, we didn't even bother to swap those back as his car doesn't show any EML and start good. Mine still starts rough and EML comes back in some time too.

Although we hear no noise from the chain, engine works alright and it pulls good too, I'm starting to think that chain slipped a tooth or it is stretched... Well I don't know...
Can someone please comment about that :huh:
 
I've never heard of the chain stretching on these or jumping a tooth. I've owned one with a noisy chain and it never had any problems starting or showed any fault codes because of it.

Have you checked the wiring to the cam sensor if that is the fault you are getting?
 
Ditto to everything Dave G just said.

Remove the connector to the sensor then, using a multimeter/ohmmeter, you should be able to measure the resistance back into the wiring loom. Compare these readings to your friend's Accord.
 
Wiring or busted ECU

Also - check all your fuses and relays. I've heard of corrosion in the fusebox area causing weird and spurious errors on these cars.
 
Jon_G said:
Ditto to everything Dave G just said.

Remove the connector to the sensor then, using a multimeter/ohmmeter, you should be able to measure the resistance back into the wiring loom. Compare these readings to your friend's Accord.
Click to expand...
Well, let me give an example on how to and please correct me if I'm wrong. There is a 3 pin connector. I set a multimeter to measure Resistance(Ω), then measure between 1 & 2, 2 & 3 etc. for both cars. Right down the results for every combination of pins and compare it?

I was thinking, is there any diagram which can help me trace the wiring from sensor to an ECU. I want to check all 3 wires separately with multimeter.
 
Yes. multimeter set to resistance. Like you say, measure the resistance 1-2, 2-3 plus 1-3... put the black lead on the lower pin number and note the resistances. Then repeat with the red lead on the lower pin number and note these values as well (as semiconductors at the other end of the wiring may give polarity-specific values).

I haven't got a clue what these values should be, but compare them to readings obtained from your friend's car, using the same methodology. They should be similar to your's... any major difference will be of interest and if any pair(s) has no circuit then look for a break/bad connection somewhere or run a parallel wire. Obviously a diagram will be invaluable if you do need to look for bad connections or run a parallel wire!
 
You could also check what voltage is being supplied to the sensor and compare that with your friends car and I would guess that one pin should be connected to earth so when you work out which pin it is, check the resistance between that pin and earth.
 
Agree... one will probably be earth/chassis/negative.

Another one will be a power rail feed from the ECU, so probably 5v (when measured to earth). The 3rd one will be the signal line from the sensor to ECU.
 
Thanks for replies. No progress under the hood, friend is gone for a while, so been fixing few things in the back. Found a bunch of broken wires causing no light in a boot and on the number plate, also couldn't open a boot as the lock suffered from the same broken wires. Guess that's a common problem on Accord. :D Hope to see some broken wires on camshaft sensor :lol:
 
Hi. I have an update. Car starts SUPERB! after a cold night, but when temperature outside reaches ~+15 I have to crank it for a while. Any ideas???? :mellow:
 
Problem solved! ;) 3 faulty injectors. Didn't bother to replace, sold the car. :D THANKS to EVERYONE for replies!
 
How did you diagnose the injectors? Reading through the thread I thought you were getting other errors?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top