Hello. When i pull my handbrake left wheel gets stuck, because the cable is jamming somewhere. So the question is is it possible to do it by my self without lifting the car and avoiding garage? Is it difficult procedure, and if the cable contains only one peace from handle to the wheel? Thank you
handbrake cable change
- Thread starter vytas
- Start date
Hello..
It sounds like you may have a stuck caliper lever arm. I had a similar problem on my 6th Gen which cause my rear brake to stick on.
You will have to jack the rear up and take the brake caliper off to confirm. You will need some basic sockets to get the wheel (79.6 ft-lb) and caliper off (26 ft-lb), you will likely need to pry off the caliper as it will be stuck firm to the disc. You will need a method of turning the piston back in, I bought a piston rewind tool like this piston rewind tool
Here is my old stuck caliper lever arm and the new one for comparison. The return spring should close the gap but because of too much road debris around the pivot (the nut & bolt in the middle), the spring was unable to do this.
When you turn the piston back you need to ensure the notches are aligned like this.....
...so that the 'key' on the brake pad can slip into it...
It sounds like you may have a stuck caliper lever arm. I had a similar problem on my 6th Gen which cause my rear brake to stick on.
You will have to jack the rear up and take the brake caliper off to confirm. You will need some basic sockets to get the wheel (79.6 ft-lb) and caliper off (26 ft-lb), you will likely need to pry off the caliper as it will be stuck firm to the disc. You will need a method of turning the piston back in, I bought a piston rewind tool like this piston rewind tool
Here is my old stuck caliper lever arm and the new one for comparison. The return spring should close the gap but because of too much road debris around the pivot (the nut & bolt in the middle), the spring was unable to do this.
When you turn the piston back you need to ensure the notches are aligned like this.....
...so that the 'key' on the brake pad can slip into it...
Hi Andy, thank you for detailed reply, i will defiantly use this info if this will be what you mean. Before i post about the cable changing i was also thinking about the caliper to be stuck, because i had that problem in my previous auto.Then i just tided the spring to bring more power when it has to pull back.. At this situation is strange it gets stuck if i pull a little bit more then 2-3 clicks, then i have to go in back and pull it back with pliers. But the problem is that when i am moving it with pliers up and down(the lever) it goes back by its self without any resistance, only when i pull it with handbrake from inside then it does not get back in position. So i was thinking about the cable might be damaged at some place and cousing the stuck. How can i check it to make sure where is the fault? Remove the cable from the lever and try to pull it with pliers - release and see if it really goes all the way back? i will go remove the tire to see whats happening now
I guess the cable could be damaged. It is one piece as you can see on the diagram and appears to be held onto the chassis by the two bolts at No. 14
Honda Handbrake Diagram
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Bolt 13 looks like its in the car under the handbrake housing at the bottom of the image.
I don't see the job being anymore difficult than removing 2 bolts (14) and 1 bolt (13)....The farthest bolt to the rear can be removed without going under the car. You can get to it with the wheel off, so would mean just getting under for one bolt and that should free the cable from the chassis. Maybe you could spray/pour a silicone/teflon lubricant down the inner core if it is accessible??
Honda Handbrake Diagram
Bolt 13 looks like its in the car under the handbrake housing at the bottom of the image.
I don't see the job being anymore difficult than removing 2 bolts (14) and 1 bolt (13)....The farthest bolt to the rear can be removed without going under the car. You can get to it with the wheel off, so would mean just getting under for one bolt and that should free the cable from the chassis. Maybe you could spray/pour a silicone/teflon lubricant down the inner core if it is accessible??
Excellent post Andy
Cheers Fahad B)
Thanks for the diagram Andy. I just get back from my car, i took the wheel of and test the caliber- it springing back ok, so it will be the cable. i've sprayed some wd40 inside the cable as much as i reach but no help, cable is long and dont know where the damage is. So i will use this diagram you give and try to buy a cable from ebay and change it by my self.