SOLIDSNAKE
Members
Hi everybody, just want to introduce myself as Rob, I have a 2004 Honda Accord CN1 and am having an array of issues with it. Let me explain when this began.
I bought this car back 2 years ago from Copart with CAT-D rear end damage which was not a problem for me, It had rear N/S damage but otherwise was unaffected.
As soon as I returned to London I did a full service, with all genuine honda parts and oil change. The car ran fine for a year (I had also completed an oil change after 6 months of owning the car), I had just serviced the car in Febuary this year and had a Car accident in the first week of March this year. Since then I have had so many issues.
From the top. I have had the ABS VSA AND VSA ACTIVATION LAMPS ON THE DASH - I remedied this by changing the rear N/S wheel speed sensor yesterday (I had to drill it out) and the light came off. I took the car for a test run only to find that the lights have come on along with the HANDBRAKE light.
My testing procedure:
I tested the wheel sensor with a multimeter measuring the resistance (set to 20M OHMS) . The brand new sensor has a maximum resistance of 0.47M OHMS my failed wheel speed sensor had a reading of 19.44M OHMs this shows an open circuit (picking up EMF from the Air), the potential difference accross the passthrough was OK even with a break in the sensor line. I have found that with a Resistance of 1.55M OHMs or more the wheel speed sensor does not relay the correct potential difference back to the ABS module.
I have a few theories that may explain why I have entire VSA AND ABS failure.
When I was drilling the old sensor out I inadvertently damaged the hub magnetic encoder, which may only recognise the fault when the wheels turn (however the hub is made from a steel alloy and I doubt it has damaged the encoder)
The gap between the sensor and the encoder is too large or too small. (most likely)
There is still debris within the wheel hub which is interfering with the encoder - sensor motion regime. (maybe possible)
My HDS has failed so I am waiting for a replacement. I can do the pin short to get the DTC but if anybody could point me in the correct direction of repair steps I would greatly appreciate it, I have my MOT on Monday (07/07/2014 -2PACS RETURN lol) with an already failed certificate where they have failed me on the headlamp jet washers and 9 other faults including the ABS.
The car engine sound like a tractor, it sounds as though an injector seal is loose so I will try to replace that but I have seen so many threads and so many people explaining it could be a number of things.
I have 5 DTCs read from my generic diagnostic reader.
These include
P2017 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH
P2199 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1/2 CORRELATION
P1065 - DIESEL FUEL PRESSURE LOWER THEN EXPECTED
P0113 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH
P2004 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL STUCK OPEN
I use the Honda Accord workshop manual to change parts or repair parts.
Any help regarding this would greatly be appreciated.
Kindest Regards
Rob
I bought this car back 2 years ago from Copart with CAT-D rear end damage which was not a problem for me, It had rear N/S damage but otherwise was unaffected.
As soon as I returned to London I did a full service, with all genuine honda parts and oil change. The car ran fine for a year (I had also completed an oil change after 6 months of owning the car), I had just serviced the car in Febuary this year and had a Car accident in the first week of March this year. Since then I have had so many issues.
From the top. I have had the ABS VSA AND VSA ACTIVATION LAMPS ON THE DASH - I remedied this by changing the rear N/S wheel speed sensor yesterday (I had to drill it out) and the light came off. I took the car for a test run only to find that the lights have come on along with the HANDBRAKE light.
My testing procedure:
I tested the wheel sensor with a multimeter measuring the resistance (set to 20M OHMS) . The brand new sensor has a maximum resistance of 0.47M OHMS my failed wheel speed sensor had a reading of 19.44M OHMs this shows an open circuit (picking up EMF from the Air), the potential difference accross the passthrough was OK even with a break in the sensor line. I have found that with a Resistance of 1.55M OHMs or more the wheel speed sensor does not relay the correct potential difference back to the ABS module.
I have a few theories that may explain why I have entire VSA AND ABS failure.
When I was drilling the old sensor out I inadvertently damaged the hub magnetic encoder, which may only recognise the fault when the wheels turn (however the hub is made from a steel alloy and I doubt it has damaged the encoder)
The gap between the sensor and the encoder is too large or too small. (most likely)
There is still debris within the wheel hub which is interfering with the encoder - sensor motion regime. (maybe possible)
My HDS has failed so I am waiting for a replacement. I can do the pin short to get the DTC but if anybody could point me in the correct direction of repair steps I would greatly appreciate it, I have my MOT on Monday (07/07/2014 -2PACS RETURN lol) with an already failed certificate where they have failed me on the headlamp jet washers and 9 other faults including the ABS.
The car engine sound like a tractor, it sounds as though an injector seal is loose so I will try to replace that but I have seen so many threads and so many people explaining it could be a number of things.
I have 5 DTCs read from my generic diagnostic reader.
These include
P2017 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH
P2199 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1/2 CORRELATION
P1065 - DIESEL FUEL PRESSURE LOWER THEN EXPECTED
P0113 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH
P2004 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL STUCK OPEN
I use the Honda Accord workshop manual to change parts or repair parts.
Any help regarding this would greatly be appreciated.
Kindest Regards
Rob
