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I-CDTI Engine cuts out when accelareting

thinfourth

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Okay a quick reboot for this thread.

Wifeies car is playing up.

It is a 2004 vintage diesel accord

It had occasional hesitation under accleration and the occasional hissy fit when you started it like it was only firing on 2 pots

A HONDA dealer did a full service on the car about 6 months ago and I think they changed the fuel filter as i requested it and it looked cleaner on return from the dealer

Now 6 months later and it is having hesitation under acceleration again.

Is a fuel filter libel to clog up again in 6 months?

Is there only one filter?

Is the filter in the low pressure circuit or high pressure circuit?

Is there anything else that could be causing the same symptoms as there is no lights coming on but i haven't pointed a code reader at it.

I am really not wanting to take the car back to the Honda dealer as frankly i wouldn't trust them as far as i could throw them and the last service cost about as much as my last car cost to buy.

Is there a good guide to replacing the fuel filter?

I don't have a ramp so can it be done from above?
 

Dan Robinson

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How many miles have you covered since the service?

You can do the ff from above.
 

CJM

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Okay a quick reboot for this thread.

Wifeies car is playing up.

It is a 2004 vintage diesel accord

It had occasional hesitation under accleration and the occasional hissy fit when you started it like it was only firing on 2 pots

A HONDA dealer did a full service on the car about 6 months ago and I think they changed the fuel filter as i requested it and it looked cleaner on return from the dealer

Now 6 months later and it is having hesitation under acceleration again.

Is a fuel filter libel to clog up again in 6 months?

Is there only one filter?

Is the filter in the low pressure circuit or high pressure circuit?

Is there anything else that could be causing the same symptoms as there is no lights coming on but i haven't pointed a code reader at it.

I am really not wanting to take the car back to the Honda dealer as frankly i wouldn't trust them as far as i could throw them and the last service cost about as much as my last car cost to buy.

Is there a good guide to replacing the fuel filter?

I don't have a ramp so can it be done from above?
There are other things that can cause this, the main questions are

is it a little intermittent i.e sometimes the car drives like a dream others like it cannot be bothered and has generally got the hiccups ?
Is the hesitation more pronounced when the engine is cold or warm or does it not seem to matter?
Is there any black sooty smoke when you accelerate reasonably hard, especially noticeable when lit up by the car behinds' headlights?
Is the car idling ok?
How would you describe the hesitation mild annoyance or quite significant?

A possible candidate for this is the IMRC Solenoid have a look at this thread, it is a long thread but well worth the read

Click Here

If your reasonable with spanners then it would be a wise thing to clean the EGR valve.

Equally well worth cleaning the MAF sensor, there are DIY's on here, but don't go prodding anything in, use the correct cleaning fluid, etc.

I would be surprised if a fuel filter replaced six months ago would give you any trouble so long as it was a genuine filter and not aftermarket (yours should be a Bosch) unless of course you have used some bad fuel or chip fat!

There is DIY for the fuel filter, yours is in the pre-facelift full service DIY and you don't need ramps to do it, just patience !
 

thinfourth

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The hesitation is almost as if it is running out of fuel.

You can be doing 55 and floor it and it happily romps up to 75 and won't go any quicker if you keep you foot flat on the floor.

But lift off and cruise at 75 for a minute or two and floor it again and it will accelerate happily beyond 75.

To me that screams fuel starvation and the fuel filter is a quick change. If that don't sort it then further investigation.

I have questions about the EGR but to keep this on topic i shall kick off a new thread
 

F6HAD

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Paul, it could be a clogged filter but you should see a warning light or flashing coil if the fuel pressure is restricted. It won't hurt/cost anything to drain and bleed it so try that first.
 

thinfourth

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No flashy lights just a lack of go.

Does the engine have an overboost as that would give the same effect.

Is there a way of interrogating the brain on the fly as i am in a place where i can't figure out what is wrong with the car so i am forced to go to a garage who i wouldn't trust as far as i could throw them.

Rant on

When we first got the car i requested that the fuel filter was changed along with the slow puncture and the tailgate was fixed as it wouldn't hold itself open.

We picked it up the fuel filter was still dirty which was apparently just a cover over it, the tyre still went down and the tailgate wouldn't stay open.

Wouldn't trust them to find their own *** with both hands and a map but they are the only Honda dealer within 60 miles
 

spufmonkey

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Hi Guys,

I think i have the same issue with the fuel filter but the mechanic at the garage seems to think its not going to be the fuel filter..
Does this throw up fault codes on ecu? he said he is gonna plug it in and check codes.. i dont have any management light on when it happens and it only happens under load?!?
 

F6HAD

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Normally a low fuel pressure error of some sort.
 

Dan Robinson

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you can get an error code depending on how the problem manifests itself.

most mechanics under estimate the sensitivity of our engines to fuel filter issues.
 

Gav

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Okay a quick reboot for this thread.

Wifeies car is playing up.

It is a 2004 vintage diesel accord

It had occasional hesitation under accleration and the occasional hissy fit when you started it like it was only firing on 2 pots

A HONDA dealer did a full service on the car about 6 months ago and I think they changed the fuel filter as i requested it and it looked cleaner on return from the dealer

Now 6 months later and it is having hesitation under acceleration again.

Is a fuel filter libel to clog up again in 6 months?
Seriously doubt it, sounds more like it need bled -easy to do there's a bolt on top of the filter, just release it and pump the fuel bulb close by - then retighten.
Is there only one filter?
Yes
Is the filter in the low pressure circuit or high pressure circuit?
Low pressure -thankfully :)
Is there anything else that could be causing the same symptoms as there is no lights coming on but i haven't pointed a code reader at it.
As I've said sounds very much like air in the fuel system.- very common after a change of FF
Is there a good guide to replacing the fuel filter?
Yes do a search on here.
I don't have a ramp so can it be done from above?
Yes it's tricky but it easiest from top...good luck
 

CJM

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No flashy lights just a lack of go.

Does the engine have an overboost as that would give the same effect.

Is there a way of interrogating the brain on the fly as i am in a place where i can't figure out what is wrong with the car so i am forced to go to a garage who i wouldn't trust as far as i could throw them.

Rant on

When we first got the car i requested that the fuel filter was changed along with the slow puncture and the tailgate was fixed as it wouldn't hold itself open.

We picked it up the fuel filter was still dirty which was apparently just a cover over it, the tyre still went down and the tailgate wouldn't stay open.

Wouldn't trust them to find their own *** with both hands and a map but they are the only Honda dealer within 60 miles
Any update on your issue?
 

spufmonkey

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quick update on mine... i took it to the garage yesterday and took the guy out and of course the car was spot on! then we plugged it into his snap on diagnostic kit to look for DTC's and there was nothing! not a bean!
so i drove away and two miles down the road after doing a quick acceleration out of a three point turn, guess what! lost all power. so i thought i would keep my foot down and see if i get any lights and it then just kangaroo'd like a 17 yr old on his first driving lesson! (pretty scary!) no lights flashed at me tho.

sooo back to the garage plugged it in again but still no codes! WTF is happening?

I still insisted on the fuel filter being changed just to see if it made a difference and they said they would do it but it would be a blueprint copy part... oh no you don't says me.. so in the end i said i would pay the difference for a honda part and its gonna go in to have this fitted at some point next week. :huh: :(
he also suggested disconnecting the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU and see if it still does it? i dont think it will make a difference but could be worth a shot??

Do the radio's have a security code if i disconnect the battery?

Anyone else get the same kangaroo symptoms with the fuel filter issue?
 

CJM

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I still insisted on the fuel filter being changed just to see if it made a difference and they said they would do it but it would be a blueprint copy part... oh no you don't says me.. so in the end i said i would pay the difference for a honda part and its gonna go in to have this fitted at some point next week. :huh: :(
he also suggested disconnecting the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU and see if it still does it? i dont think it will make a difference but could be worth a shot??
By the sounds of it your best sourcing the filter yourself and getting them to fit it, give the forums Affiliated dealer (Holdcroft Honda, Stoke) a ring, mention your from the forum, there is a members discount.

Plus with the greatest respect to the garage you are using, it doesn't sound like they are fully aware of the Accord i-ctdi or they just don't want to do the filter. Maybe worth going to a dealer for a quote to do at least just the filter, or if you are reasonably handy with a spanner there are DIY's on here that will help you do it yourself, then your sure it's done.
 

vile

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as Carl said get a quote from a main dealer.
Honda bristol done mine for 36 pounds labor only
 

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Ok, quick update.. filter done.. problem solved.. so far! :D he said there was a fault code, something like 10065? didn't charge me extra for the filter either and all done under warranty! he said the filter that was on it was quite different from the original one he fitted.. :eek:
 

Dan Robinson

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Sounds like a ff problem to me - glad its sorted bud :D
 

CJM

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Great news Damo,

The fact that the filters looked different, says a lot, hopefully all sorted now.
 

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My Accord is not exceeding 2100rpm lately. When I step on the accelerator, the engine makes the rev noise but car doesnt accelerate. I am unsure if this goes away when the car is warmed up.

The fuel filter was changed with a genuine one at my 108k service, now the car is at 124k.
 

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My Accord is not exceeding 2100rpm lately. When I step on the accelerator, the engine makes the rev noise but car doesnt accelerate. I am unsure if this goes away when the car is warmed up.

The fuel filter was changed with a genuine one at my 108k service, now the car is at 124k.
Hello again... you're having a few problems recently!

My first thought is a slipping clutch. But - if your engine warning/ECU light is on - the car is in limp mode and you must get the error code read by someone with an OBD2 reader.
 

kasheeq8

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Hello again... you're having a few problems recently!

My first thought is a slipping clutch. But - if your engine warning/ECU light is on - the car is in limp mode and you must get the error code read by someone with an OBD2 reader.
Indeed Jon :( Where can I get a cheap OBD2 reader? Easy to use myself?
 

Jon_G

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Loads of options on eBay. This is the same as mine... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Any-Car-Engine-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-OBD-OBD2-OBDII-CAN-BUS-D900-/110999143425?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item19d8108401 but there are other types that convert the obd2 connector to a bluetooth signal so you can then connect to a mobile device with a suitable app/software.

Until you get a reading, try disconnecting the battery negative (-) terminal for at least 20 minutes to reset the ECU and clear the stored code. Then see if the fault comes back when you start up and drive around. Pretty much any fault code would be better than a slipping clutch!!!
 

kasheeq8

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Hello again... you're having a few problems recently!

My first thought is a slipping clutch. But - if your engine warning/ECU light is on - the car is in limp mode and you must get the error code read by someone with an OBD2 reader.
Hi Jon,

Turns out the "warning light" was only appearing when I was pressing the VSA button. Of course that warning light is to confirm that VSA has been manually turned off. Other than this I have no xmas tree lights anywhere :) Given this new information, how do I fix this wretched limp mode problem? Do I still need to get a diagnostics check done? Or maybe try replacing the fuel filter? Thanks.
 

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Hi Jon,

Turns out the "warning light" was only appearing when I was pressing the VSA button. Of course that warning light is to confirm that VSA has been manually turned off. Other than this I have no xmas tree lights anywhere :) Given this new information, how do I fix this wretched limp mode problem? Do I still need to get a diagnostics check done? Or maybe try replacing the fuel filter? Thanks.
Yeah, I saw your other thread about the VSA being fixed. As the cool kids have being saying recently... RTFM :D

I wouldn't change the fuel filter (or anything else) without knowing what the problem is - so yes, get a diagnostics check done (or buy yourself a reader, which could well be cheaper than paying a garage to read the code for you!). Or, as I said before, disconnect the battery negative terminal for at least 20 minutes to clear the ECU... maybe the problem will have gone away and the light won't come back on? Don't worry too much about driving with the light on, as a serious ECU fault condition will prevent the engine running. But you need to do something, as maybe the fault will get bad enough after a while for the ECU to shut down the engine.
 

kasheeq8

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Yeah, I saw your other thread about the VSA being fixed. As the cool kids have being saying recently... RTFM :D
Lol, indeed. Sorry Jon, maybe I didnt mention but there are no warning lights whatsoever now. But I will try disconnecting the battery to clear the ECU.
 

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No ECU warning light but the car struggles to accelerate when the RPM hits around 2200.
Odd. Try the battery disconnect trick, you never know!

It's going to be hard to find the fault without an ECU fault code, as there could be half a dozen suspects! Hopefully you'll eventually get a light and can read the code.
 

kasheeq8

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Odd. Try the battery disconnect trick, you never know!

It's going to be hard to find the fault without an ECU fault code, as there could be half a dozen suspects! Hopefully you'll eventually get a light and can read the code.
Disconnected the negative connection to the battery for 2 hours. No warning lights or anything and I'm still experiencing engine cuts as soon as I hit 2500 and then it settles at 2100. On the rare occasion the engine once accelerated to 3100.

I would like to think that maybe the issue is happening with a cold engine.

Anything else I can try before going to Honda?

Thanks.
 

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If it hasn't been changed in a long while, then I guess you might as well try replacing the fuel filter. My only doubt about this is that your problem sounds rev-related rather than load-related.
 

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I have had a similar problem with my car going into limp mode. It will work fine for about 20 mins and the the accelerator will stop working. Turn it off for a while and it will work again however it seems to be getting worse. I took it to an auto electricians and they tested the tps and the wiring. They reckon their is a problem with the ECU. Is it worth changing the filter first as I already spent £100 on a new tps sensor which I didn't need and also the money for the diagnostics.

Also where is the ECU the guy at the garage said it was behind the glove box but I can't see it?

Thanks

Jim
 
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