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I-CDTI Engine cuts out when accelareting

I don't remember anyone suffering an ECU problem, so I suggest that it's very unlikely... sounds maybe like a desperate suggestion by someone who has run out of ideas?

When you suffer the limp mode condition, what fault codes is the ECU reporting? Having these read (and posting them here) is the best way to ****yse this problem, before spending more money and time on possible solutions (but yes, it could be a fuel filter problem) - do you know someone with an OBD2 code reader?

Welcome to the club Jim!
 
From your limited description sounds more like a failing throttle position sensor
 
I don't remember anyone suffering an ECU problem, so I suggest that it's very unlikely... sounds maybe like a desperate suggestion by someone who has run out of ideas?

When you suffer the limp mode condition, what fault codes is the ECU reporting? Having these read (and posting them here) is the best way to ****yse this problem, before spending more money and time on possible solutions (but yes, it could be a fuel filter problem) - do you know someone with an OBD2 code reader?

Welcome to the club Jim!

The TPS sensor was coming up but we changed it and it didn't make a difference there were some more codes I'll see if I can find them.
 
Hopefully all the stored fault codes were deleted? On this ECU (Bosch EDC16) they get stored, which means that you usually get a collection building up over time! But once they've been cleared then you know which ones come back and are therefore related to the current problem. When the fuel filter gets to be a serious problem, then expect to see P1065 or P0087 error codes.

Sorry, but I don't know where the ECU is, or how to get to it.
 
Hopefully all the stored fault codes were deleted? On this ECU (Bosch EDC16) they get stored, which means that you usually get a collection building up over time! But once they've been cleared then you know which ones come back and are therefore related to the current problem. When the fuel filter gets to be a serious problem, then expect to see P1065 or P0087 error codes.

Sorry, but I don't know where the ECU is, or how to get to it.

Oh right. They cleared it and when I went back it came up with the TPS fault.
 
On the 7th gen petrol, the ECU is beneath the sat nav, it's easy to get to, there's a panel in the side of the foot well. I would think that it's in there on the diesel too, because pollen filters are behind the glove box.


edit:
here are some pics of where the ECU is in the petrol
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12082-facelift-ecu-in-pre-facelift/page__st__52
 
On the 7th gen petrol, the ECU is beneath the sat nav, it's easy to get to, there's a panel in the side of the foot well. I would think that it's in there on the diesel too, because pollen filters are behind the glove box.


edit:
here are some pics of where the ECU is in the petrol
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12082-facelift-ecu-in-pre-facelift/page__st__52


Thanks.

It's in a slightly trickier place to get to than the petrol but I'm gonna have a go as I changed the fuel filter and it had made no difference.

I did notice that it cuts out when the temperature gauge hits a certain temperature after 30-40 mins driving.
 
Morning,
Just read this thread as the car started with the engine managent light on this morning. Driving if the normal short distance to the station reveals the car is lethargic past 2k revs and no sign of the turbo dooms anything.

Car was serviced by a local garage in Feb 13, I insisted on genuine Honda parts and the correct oil having read the threads on here.

I will try and get the fault codes read today, but will check if they did change the FF at the 75k service and double check the filter make.

I ***ume the ff is the likely issue?

Ta
 
I wouldn't ***ume until you know what the error is, but it's a likely cause in many cases.
 
I wouldn't ***ume until you know what the error is, but it's a likely cause in many cases.
Thanks for the reply.

Just connected a code reader and got the following, P1384, P2004 & P16A4.

Will do a search for these now unless someone has some quick links to hand.

I understand that the P2004 is the butterfly valve open in the manifold?

Thanks again, I took her to one garage who thought that the P2004 would be solved with a new £130 part.
 
P2004 relates to the intake manifold runner control which is a small part controlling the swirl flaps.

Clear the codes and see what comes back. P2004 might not be the cause of your problem.
 
P2004 relates to the intake manifold runner control which is a small part controlling the swirl flaps.

Clear the codes and see what comes back. P2004 might not be the cause of your problem.

Ok, I will clear the codes. The swirl flaps must be functioning now as the turbo is working and it pulls through the revs as per before!

Regards
 
Hey, guys. My English is not very good, but I will try to explain the problem.
My Honda is from 2007. Maximum engine speed is 3000, then, the most common indicator pops glow plugs and engine control. I read errors. P1065 and P0087. Everyone on the forum say, this is fuel filter. Yesterday I bought a new original fuel filter 42 pounds and I replaced it myself at home. Unfortunately, the problem still exists. What now check where to look, how to deal with snap out of it?
Thanks in advance
 
Hi Jarek. Yes, DTCs P1065 and P0087 together would usually point to a restricted fuel filter. As you have now replaced the old one with a new (Denso?) unit those fault codes should clear after a few start-up/cool-down cycles. Or did you actually delete these codes and reset the ECU using your reader?
 
Hi Jon. Thanks for your interest.
I bought this filter in the Honda garage in Swindon. I gave them a registration number. I'm not 100% sure, but at 90% it was a Bosch fuel filter.
During the ride max 3000 engine rpm. When the car is at idle and then push the acceleration, the engine starts to choke and jerk always at 3,500 rpm.
I erased faults using my device. I hope you understand me :)

P.S
I do not know if this has something to do, but I have a cracked exhaust manifold. Feel fumes in the cabin.


I just checked, the filter is Denso
 
The exhaust manifold would have to be very seriously damaged before it caused serious running problems. Fumes in the cabin can also be from a leaking injector.

Do you think the problem is better, worse or the same as before you replaced the fuel filter?

Do the same codes (P1065 and P0087) come back again immediately after you delete them?
 
The smell of smoke is definitely out of the exhaust manifold.
Today flooded 30 liters of Shell V Power and poured Wynn's Formula Gold Diesel Treatment. I drove over 100 miles and it seemed to me that it's better.
On motorway I can safely drive on 5-6 gear 85-90 miles per hour. Car accelerates very well, but I have to be careful not to exceed 3000rpm.
Today at idle when the engine was 4000rmp, jumped fault P0339.
It was the first time
 
P0339 = crankshaft position sensor intermittent interruption (possibly a loose connection or loose sensor?)... this seems unrelated to the original problem, but maybe you disturbed something while changing the fuel filter?

Are you still getting P1065 and P0087?

I think you've done the right thing in putting in some diesel treatment in the tank (although I do not know if that Wynns product is any good). P1065 and P0087 both relate to low fuel rail pressure, which is usually because the fuel filter is restricting the flow, but some sort of blockage in the fuel line would also cause this, and so would a fuel pump problem... particularly if the fuel pump electrical flow regulator becomes a bit sticky.
 
Hi Ladies and Gents,

I have a 2004 accord, but now with a 2006 engine. After an unscrupulous car dealer sold me a car with a rec-coned engine and didn't tell me about it.

The same problem happened in both engines, but it only happens in 2nd gear at just under 3000rpm when your being vigorous with the throttle. The drive cuts out but the revs continue to rise. It corrects itself once I change up and stop pressing hard on the accelerator. But if I continue with the foot down, the revs rise but I go nowhere. It happens when its cold and warm.

As I said I have replaced the engine, and all filters and oils. And even the clutch and flywheel.

I was told it was a fault in the traction control, but that was cleared and reset. But it still continues to happen, I'm lost at what to do now.
So if anyone can give any insight or guidance it would be greatly appreciated. I am just not having any luck with this car at all. lol

Thanks
Ryan
 
Incorrectly loaded clutch.
 
Hi guys,

can anyone tell me what are the potential problems of driving the car with the solenoid valve permanently unplugged?
the reason I am asking is that the car accelerates much better with the valve unplugged, and if there are no harmful consequences I would leave it unplugged all the time.
what exactly does that valve do and why the the car accelerate so much better when it is unplugged?
from what I have read in this forum, this is the case with most other members, so I ***ume it is not my particular solenoid valve that makes the car slower

thanks
 
hi Guys

i got the same problem ,but i have changed fuel filter,and its the same, i got no faults in ecu.
at the begining i thought its a fuel , i use sansbury petrol station then i changed for bp and put ultimate disel, i though its helped but start again.
its comming when accelerting very quick,sometimes its on second gear sometimes on 3rd,never on first and 4th or 5th.

Any ides what else can it be if its not fuel filter???
 
No error codes? genuine fuel filter? Bled properly?

Could be a bad EGR also causing this
 
No errors, honda filter, I cleaned egr year ago and replace frequency solenoid valve cause I had faults. After it faults. Dissappear. it's just happens when accelerate really fast 2nd and 3rd gear.

How can I bleed fuel filter?
Does it not bleed it self through run?
 
Hi F6HAD

What if my filter isn't geniuine?
I just call eurocarparts and they told me it's a replacement filter it's not genuine.
How can I bleed fuel filter?

Got one more question, can I use ultimate diesel from BP stations?does it make difference and don't cause problems with engine?
 
With all due respect, after so many years of running this place I get tired of telling people the same old thing.

You should know by now a genuine filter can only be sourced from the main dealer.

Bleeding it is just like bleeding a radiator at home, loosen the 10mm nut on the filter and let the air out and then prime it again with the hand bulb. Do it a few times for good measure. I'm ***uming we are talking about the 5 speed pre facelift car.
 
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