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Is it possible to 'chip' a 2.2i CTDi Honda Accord

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ship69

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'08 i-DTEC EX man 5D
Hi

I am planning to buy a 7th generation Honda Accord diesel (e.g. 2.2i CTDi Sport or Executive - or whatever).

I have previously got my Golf TDI "chipped" taking it from 130BHP to (aprox) 170BHP.
This proved to be a HUGE success as I now have a car with about the same MPG (if driven sensibly) and massively better over-taking capabilities.

Is it possible to do anything similar to a diesel Honda Accord with success?

Many thanks

John
 
ship69 said:
Hi

I am planning to buy a 7th generation Honda Accord diesel (e.g. 2.2i CTDi Sport or Executive - or whatever).

I have previously got my Golf TDI "chipped" taking it from 130BHP to (aprox) 170BHP.
This proved to be a HUGE success as I now have a car with about the same MPG (if driven sensibly) and massively better over-taking capabilities.

Is it possible to do anything similar to a diesel Honda Accord with success?


John
Click to expand...

John, in a answer yes,
just search the forum and you'll find - keywords -elite
 
Yes mate, search for remapping - we tune these all the time.
 
F6HAD said:
Yes mate, search for remapping - we tune these all the time.
Click to expand...

Great. Perhaps it's because I'm dyslexic but I'm having a bit of trouble finding the key points though(!)

e.g. How much can one increase the power before nasty side effects kick in - such as needing a better clutch?

Suppose for example we take the car from 140BHP to c 170 BHP?
and what affect would it have on MPG ?

With thanks
 
I'll be giving the missus your number, Fahad, and hinting at a Christmas present :D .
 
We offer Stage 1 @ 180bhp or Stage 2 @ 192 on standard cars. Stage 1 is the most common as it's a blended tune for power and economy, but please bear in mind economy is really in the control of the driver.

Dyno plots available here

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/5354-accord-i-ctdi-dyno-runs/
 
Have you had a go at a stage 1 with EGR off? It would be interesting to see the result
 
Chris I'm running a special Stage 2 with EGR off, have done for some 10k now. Runs beautifully.
 
Chris,

Yes I ran it with Stage 1 for a while (some 4k) before moving it up a notch. I have a few members quietly testing it for me at the moment.. will share details and feedback soon ;)

Cheers

Fahad
 
F6HAD said:
We offer Stage 1 @ 180bhp or Stage 2 @ 192 on standard cars. Stage 1 is the most common as it's a blended tune for power and economy, but please bear in mind economy is really in the control of the driver.

Dyno plots available here

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/5354-accord-i-ctdi-dyno-runs/
Click to expand...


For me economy is important too, so I think 180bhp would be the best.
However on your link I cant see what the impact on MPG will be.

Nor can I see it on either of these links:
http://www.premiertuning.com/honda.html
http://eliteremaps.com/ecu-remapping.asp?AnaCatID=78&CatID=24&Cat=Honda%20Remapping

May I ask some newbie questions:
1. Why is it that manufacturers (e.g. Honda) dont map their cars better in the first place?
I mean some remaps stats seem to significantly increase power and also increase economy(!).

2. Does remapping *significantly* shorten the lifespan of an engine?
I mean, I am told that a Honda Accord (diesel) will cheerfully run for up 200K+ miles...
But if I remap from 140BHP to say 180 is it likely that the car will only get to 150K or something.

3. If I am running a 180BPH remap will I need a new/more powerful clutch.
Are there any other unwanted likely side-effects of a re-map?
e.g. Terrible pollution stats?

Cheers
 
ship69 said:
For me economy is important too, so I think 180bhp would be the best.
However on your link I cant see what the impact on MPG will be.

Nor can I see it on either of these links:
http://www.premiertuning.com/honda.html
http://eliteremaps.com/ecu-remapping.asp?AnaCatID=78&CatID=24&Cat=Honda%20Remapping

May I ask some newbie questions:
1. Why is it that manufacturers (e.g. Honda) dont map their cars better in the first place?
I mean some remaps stats seem to significantly increase power and also increase economy(!).

2. Does remapping *significantly* shorten the lifespan of an engine?
I mean, I am told that a Honda Accord (diesel) will cheerfully run for up 200K+ miles...
But if I remap from 140BHP to say 180 is it likely that the car will only get to 150K or something.

3. If I am running a 180BPH remap will I need a new/more powerful clutch.
Are there any other unwanted likely side-effects of a re-map?
e.g. Terrible pollution stats?

Cheers
Click to expand...


I just typed a nice long response and then suffered an internal server crash!

We don't publish economy figures deliberately. All those companies claiming ridiculous economy gains and money back guarantees are treading a dangerous line, and you can make up your own mind when you deal with them on how honest that approach is.

We can guarantee the power gains on a healthy engine as that's easy to prove on a dyno. The economy gains are in your control. I would say 5-15% on an Accord depending on how disciplined you are. I see maybe 7% on average.

Regarding why manufacturers don't release the power from factory, I don't have the actual answer, but in my opinion it relates to longevitiy and reliability and how many warranty claims they would want to pay in the warranty period. It's a business decision really.

Also consider that most cars are sold in differing climatic conditions and emissions zones etc. And considerations for product placement i.e if you're making a more economical, tax efficient and as powerful variant as the petrol equivalent.. how many petrol cars can you expect to sell?

Some manufacturers do offer the power upgrades as a dealer option, the difference is they will honour the modification within the warranty period (but charge you £1250+VAT for the priviledge).. In fact we supply some of our products to leasing companies that tune the lower model and lease it as the next model up (technically not breaking the law as they're leasing a 130bhp variant even if it was a 100bhp from the factory)..

Regarding the clutch, if you own a Honda ICTDI, then prepare for the clutch to go sooner or later whether it's tuned or not. There's plenty of evidence on this and other Honda forums to support that view, and not everyone with a tuned Accord is seeing clutch failures, and likewise not everyone with non tuned Accord's is seeing perfect clutches.

Regarding emissions, diesel cars are not tested for emissions in the same way as petrol cars and as a properly calibrated remap does not change anything under zero load.. the MoT (under current legislation) is not a problem.
 
Basically manufacturers have to plan for the worst type of owner profile - uses the wrong oil, ignores service schedules and treats the car like it's white goods.

When you remap a car you have to pay more attention to servicing and maintenance, because you have less margin for error, as that tolerance for the eejit owner has been removed. ;)
 
I just want to add. I have had the remap Stage 1 Elite for over a year and not had any issues. I went to London and back from Leeds and managed 400 miles on half a tank at a constant 70mph. Obviously if you have a heavy foot economy will be affected but driven correctly you should not see much difference. Remember it's a remap so some compromise is expected but the difference in power is amazing. I love it and trusted Fahad and his team to provide this sort of power gains and I'm pleased to say i'm a happy customer a long with pretty much everyone on here who has the map installed.
 
Shabz said:
I just want to add. I have had the remap Stage 1 Elite for over a year and not had any issues. <snip> I love it and trusted Fahad and his team to provide this sort of power gains and I'm pleased to say i'm a happy customer...
Click to expand...

Okay, I finally had the Stage 1 Elite - complete with EGR valve off - done by Fahad today... so fingers crossed !

I've only managed to do a short test run so far... but so far so good. The power, torque and (particularly) the turbo lag all definitely seem improved.
I'll let you know how I get on - particularly as far as economy is concerned.
For the record I on a windless day (today), after then engine had warmed up over c20 miles on the motorway was getting 50-51 MPG at a steady indicated 80MPH (i.e. 76 MPH according to TomTom) in my 2007 i-CTDI Tourer.

Anyhow watch this space. :)

J
 
One more issue - please can you tell me again how long the 'learning' phase lasts for the new mappping - and to what extent does exactly how I drive during this phase matter?

It has been interesting so far - sometimes the increase in acceleration certainly *seems* much more marked than at other times. e.g. I am just wondering if driving at a steady 80MPH for 20 miles on the motorway is a BAD idea.... And should I deliberately driving it on winding country lanes giving it some welly to make sure it doesnt get into bad overly thrifty habits that then discourage it from being good at overtaking when required. ??

J
 
Just drive normally for a few days... shouldn't take long.
 
Yeah I don't think it's as clever as you're making it seem, it will continue adjusting to the way you're driving as well so if you were to do motorway miles every day then suddenly take it on a track day it would still react accordingly.
 
John it will never stop learning, just drive normally now.
 
Damn it!
It seems like the clutch cant take the strain and will start to slip if you push the car hard - especially at moderate speeds (where acceleration is of course harder for the engine) - [remember: kinetic energy = (mass x velocity squared) /2 ] and in the higher gears. :^/

My VW Golf had the same problem after I had it re-mapped. So I always had to be a bit careful about not pushing it too hard (especially in 3rd & 4th gears). I had thought that the clutch was on the way out, but it went on for about 15K miles without getting any worse (and then I sold the car in any case) - so I am ***uming the torque was simply beyond what the clutch was designed to handle.

And so I guess same will be true of the Honda (??) :^/

J
 
John, sorry to hear this. If you're careful, it will go on forever really. Just depends how much willpower you have. The clutch friction disc will be fine, it's the common issue of weak pressure plate design as explained when we met.
 
F6HAD said:
John, sorry to hear this. If you're careful, it will go on forever really. Just depends how much willpower you have. The clutch friction disc will be fine, it's the common issue of weak pressure plate design as explained when we met.
Click to expand...

Hm... to be fair, I drive it fairly carefully most of the time (trying to conserve MPG!). Also I'm pretty sure that the clutch slipping has been getting worse over the last week...
e.g. Last night it slipped quite badly whilst overtaking at about 60 MPG at say 3000RPM (i.e. in 4th gear?).

So now I have a difficult debate:
My car is still under warranty from the car dealership that sold it to me. So in theory if I took my car back to a (Honda?) dealer they should put a new clutch in.
BUT
a) Would they find out that the car has been re-mapped (if so I presume that might invalidate the warranty)?
B) Even if they did put a brand new clutch in, are we saying that the new clutch will still slip under load.

Or should I wait until the clutch is slipping dramatically.

And/or should I get it un-remapped before taking it to get repaired?

J
 
If It's under warranty, take it in and don't say 'owt.

Then enjoy the map like the test of us.
 
F6HAD said:
What remap ;)?
Click to expand...

Seriously guys - if I get a new clutch put in by the dealer will it still be likely to slip?
(And will the dealer not then go "wait a minute...")

J
 
F6HAD said:
John, sorry to hear this. If you're careful, it will go on forever really. Just depends how much willpower you have. The clutch friction disc will be fine, it's the common issue of weak pressure plate design as explained when we met.
Click to expand...

If the weak pressure plate is the cause then a new clutch won't make any difference.
 
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