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MOT fail

^ bl00dy good result !!

new caliper and discs and shoes etc etc @ £500 ..... my ar$e :lol:

btw it was the piston on mine, nice new caliper here for £66

IMAG0438_zpsaded30f4.jpg


edit: and state of the disc is MOT pass too
 
Result!

In my experience, an apparently seized caliper is often the slider pins (I wonder how many garages would have been honest enough to have admitted that?). Although I have suffered from a seized rear caliper once, I've had to free up the slider pins on both rears several times. I now use a grinder to clean up the edges of new pads, removing paint and casting marks... this seems to help along with using either copper grease or Molykote.
 
Just booked it in for the retest, don't think the bloke who answered put two and two together, I'm sure they will when it goes back! If they ask me I'll tell them straight coz according to them the caliper was totally seized, wouldn't budge, total BS. Now, it gets better, I quote "your pads is down to the metal" complete BS again, yes the pads are knackered but I've just measured 2mm, on the MOT it's claimed the outer pad was under 1.5mm. A complete lie. What really made my mate chuckle was why they thought the flexi pipe needed changing and the brake shoes.
 
StuH said:
What really made my mate chuckle was why they thought the flexi pipe needed changing and the brake shoes.
Click to expand...
Absolutely .... especially the shoes as they can only tell by removing the disc/drum :eek:
I reckon they just thought "problem with a rear caliper, pads worn, well that => new caliper, new pads, new discs, and while we're at it new flexi pipes and new shoes, and loads of brake fluid"
 
StuH said:
What really made my mate chuckle was why they thought the flexi pipe needed changing and the brake shoes.
Click to expand...

Flexi pipe probably does need changing! It's a Honda recognised problem on the tourer and is usually the cause of calipers sticking.
 
^ that's a very good point Trev, at least 7 threads in the forum on this (especially the Tourer rear brakes).

Even though Stuart took it to an independent for the MOT, maybe they are aware of the internal corrosion issue on the rear flexi pipes.
But one does wonder why they wanted to replace disc/drum on both sides and the shoes as well.

I ought to add "replace flexi pipes" to my own to-do list ;)
 
StuH said:
Just booked it in for the retest, don't think the bloke who answered put two and two together, I'm sure they will when it goes back! If they ask me I'll tell them straight coz according to them the caliper was totally seized, wouldn't budge, total BS. Now, it gets better, I quote "your pads is down to the metal" complete BS again, yes the pads are knackered but I've just measured 2mm, on the MOT it's claimed the outer pad was under 1.5mm. A complete lie. What really made my mate chuckle was why they thought the flexi pipe needed changing and the brake shoes.
Click to expand...
To be fair, not a huge difference between 1.5mm and 2mm, but vastly different to being down to the metal!

Good luck with the re-test and please let us know how it goes...
 
HuskyMan said:
Flexi pipe probably does need changing! It's a Honda recognised problem on the tourer and is usually the cause of calipers sticking.
Click to expand...
Trev, despite several binding rear brake problems, I've never (knowingly) had a problem with my flexi pipes... how can you tell when they actually need replacing?
 
Jon_G said:
Trev, despite several binding rear brake problems, I've never (knowingly) had a problem with my flexi pipes... how can you tell when they actually need replacing?
Click to expand...
Honda tells you they do? :D

Honestly I don't know, but if my calipers were sticking I'd have the hoses changed just in case it was that causing it - in fact I did just that when I had my rear offside caliper done last year, not prompted by a garage either I just bought the hose and asked them to change it.
This is the vehicles BRAKES we're talking about, why risk it?
 
I reckon I should have had mine done too ..... I found these using the forum google search --> flexi pipe -exhaust
Could be even more ....

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/2127-major-rear-brake-issue-2007-tourer/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6607-tourer-rear-brake-change/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/7891-brake-sticking-on-tourer/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8128-7th-gen-tourer-rear-brake-overhaul/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8435-seized-rear-calipers/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8818-binding-brakes/

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/11542-rear-caliper/
 
Having read those links (thanks Brian), I'm not convinced that the flexi hose are to blame in many cases, but there is a fair bit of speculation, I must agree. As I said within the bottom link of your post, a TA member replaced their hoses then cut up one of the old ones to find it was absolutely fine!

I'm not sure what would make the insides of the hoses corrode? And why on the tourer?
 
Sorry Jon, I only quickly scanned through them, I think you have a very good point.
If the Tourer rear calipers tend to have more problems than the saloon, it could quite simply be that the Tourer rear calipers seem to be made of Wensleydale :(

I'll take "replace rear flexi hoses" off my to-do list (and won't hold you to blame if my brakes cook) ;)
 
I did mention it to my mate and he said they looked fine but of course there could be problems inside. I'll just keep an eye on it, any signs of it sticking again and will probably replace them.

Back for the MOT tomorrow.
 
Well, what a carry on. Took it back, got a phone call within 30 minutes, failed, same thing they said. Phones my mate, "no chance" he claims but came over to double check and with the wheel off we had a look and it was as free as a bird, gave the brakes some punishment and it was spinning away afterwards. Anyway, phoned another garage, asked when they could MOT it and they said bring it straight round. Guess what, passed, no problems.
 
Hmmm, sounds fish doesn't it <_<
 
Complain to VOSA... http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/contactus/complaintssuggestionsandcompliments/complaintssuggestionsandcompliments.htm
 
Jon_G said:
Complain to VOSA
Click to expand...

I don't know if I can be bothered but the odd thing is when they mentioned the rolling road yesterday I had a look in the garage and it must be hidden in a cupboard because I couldn't see one then I noticed the garage on the MOT certificate is not the garage I took it too, it's a garage round the back of them so I can only think they run the cars round there except I doubt mine moved yesterday (should've zero'd the trip). Like my dad said, how can they claim all this work needs doing then pass it when none of it except the pads have been done.
 
Jon_G said:
I'm wondering if you even needed to change the pads...
Click to expand...

Yes I did, I have them here and they are too low. However, they measure (using calibrated verniers) just over 2mm on one pad and 3mm on the other which considering I was told it was metal on metal on the phone and one of the fails on the MOT was the pads being under 1.5mm is odd.
 
I meant you didn't need to replace them for an MoT pass... even 0.5mm could still give 100% braking effort. Low pads should be an advisory only.

In any case, 2mm would last quite a while on the rear - the wear indicator noise gets a bit unbearable but you can bend it back to shut it up!
 
^ front pads on mine are similar ....those got an advisory as Jon says.

You ought to at least ask for your money back, go back with the new MOT and say you intend to report them to VOSA unless they refund you the test fee. But I understand if you shrug your shoulders and put it down to experience.
 
It was on the certificate as a fail, it has a code of 3.5.1g which when checked is less than 1.5mm at any point is a fail. Either way, mine wasn't that so they were wrong to put it down. Just been to picked the car up, completely different, last garage was all down and "well we've pushed it through on some things" etc, this guy was like "a couple of advisories that's all". He did say the exhaust is deteriorating but it's not blowing or anything so see how it goes.
 
was the first place one of those "cheap £30 MOT" places ....I've always stayed well clear of those for obvious reasons
 
Unless you know the garage well, it's best to get the MOT done at a council MOT station as they don't do repairs but are very vigorous in testing mind or take it to 'just MOT' outlets who don't carry out repairs either.
 
StuH said:
I don't know if I can be bothered but the odd thing is when they mentioned the rolling road yesterday I had a look in the garage and it must be hidden in a cupboard because I couldn't see one then I noticed the garage on the MOT certificate is not the garage I took it too, it's a garage round the back of them so I can only think they run the cars round there except I doubt mine moved yesterday (should've zero'd the trip). Like my dad said, how can they claim all this work needs doing then pass it when none of it except the pads have been done.
Click to expand...

Even more reason to get in touch with VOSA. They've fcukd you about and cost you money - report them.
 
Can't be bothered with it any more, put it down to a lesson learnt and the garage that I've used for years is no longer trustworthy.
 
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