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New Accord Tourer

Paul D said:
OK, I've still not fixed the issue but this may help us narrow it down.

I again today tried disconnecting the frequency solenoid valve (the new one). took it for a longish run including some motorway mileage - and it was absolutely fine, no problem whatsoever!

Re-connect it, and low and behold, the problem returns. As this is a brand new valve, it suggests its something else that's faulty, but is interrelated to this valve!

The garage had booked it in for Wednesday and were intending to strip the turbo off and send this for flow testing, but given this information, I'm not sure its worth it. The dealers also started hinting that if it can't be rectified by the garage easily (i.e. cheaply), he will return my old car, and the cash I had paid, minus the cost of the new tyres and MOT on my old car!

Obviously I don't want to go down this route - not least because they've now decided that my old car needs a new diff (gearbox started whining after they had it a few days).

Obviously doing this and flogging the accord at auction works out best for them, but leaves me worse than where I left off, so I'm not keen to do this.

Anyone have any ideas what else it could be?

Oh - first tank of fuel, averaged at 36mpg, but obviously the foot to floor action trying to get the thing to accelerate wouldn't exactly be helping this!
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Does it look like they have replace the solenoid ?
As your brother in law has mentioned the injectors do need coding when replaced, but then this should have been done at the time. Just a thought as we have seen this on another thread, do you know whether the injectors are OEM or after-market ?

As disconnecting the IMRC seems to ease the issue It's worth checking the connections on the IMRC Solenoid and MAP Sensor make sure they are clean and tight.

It maybe also be worth cleaning the MAP sensor, I think it is located more on the side of the engine on the pre-facelift.

Here's a link, but this is a facelift so it will be slightly different.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1517-maf-map-sensor-cleaning-imrc-valve-cleaning/page__p__17712__fromsearch__1#entry17712


Also you are best resetting the ECU by pulling the fuse, this opens up the parameters more which then the ECU re-learns and eventually adjusts the parameters over a period of time.

Is there a code or something that is pointing towards the turbo? It's also worth having as much "free" diagnostics done at least if nothing else it rules things out, then when and if the dealer wants to take the car back then you have a better idea as to which way to turn.

Going back to the situation with the dealer, which would be worst keeping the car or getting the old car back. if you cannot get it sorted you could always trade it in against another, depends what gives you the most value.
 
OK, we had a play tonight. As it is driving perfectly with the solenoid valve electrically disconnected (but throwing a code), we decided to try some options with the vacuum hosing.

First up we completely bypassed the valve, running a hose from the solid pipe to the swirl control valve ***embly. This resulted in a complete loss of power through the rev range - constant vacuum.

We then tried re-routing the hoses, reversing the connection sides to the solenoid valve (he mentioned that he has once seen the manufacturer of a component actually switch the in/out connections without bothering to tell anyone or update the part number).

Suddenly the car felt completely different - back to how it should be. Dropped him off, and went to pick up his code reader so I could clear the engine light.

Car was now slow again!!! Drove it for a couple of minutes, then, suddenly the performance returned... and so did the engine light!!!

Code reads P2006?

My plan tomorrow will be to clean first the MAF sensor, then the MAP sensor etc. with some test drives between. IT's obviously going to be worth restting between drives, so is this a simple case of disconnect the battery for half an hour?

I have my mates code reader now so can reset any codes.
 
OK, tried a few more things - cleaned both MAP and MAF sensors, with test drives after each, along with IRMC(?) valve.

Made no difference.

Tried a drive with the MAP disconnected - limp mode

Tried a drive with the MAF disconnected - limp mode

Will try stripping the EGR off next and giving it a clean, but we thinks its still most likely the MAF sensor. The missus car is a Civic, so I can't swap it out to see either which is a pain!
 
P2006 - IMRC Valve incorrect position

Maybe due to changing around the VAC hoses.

When you cleaned the IMRC valve, was the butterfly valve moving smoothly?

You will get limp mode with both of the MAP and MAF disconnected, I take it you allowed good time for them to dry and used the MAF cleaner etc.

Did it run like a bag of spanners when the MAF was disconnected?

Are you getting any other symptoms other than lag?

Personally I would put the Vac hose back to the original position for the moment, maybe clear all codes and re-run and scan for any new codes or to see if P2006 returns.

Equally you could do with ruling out the fuel filter, possibly not as obvious to be the cause in your situation, but if it hasn't been replaced recently or does not have an original on, then it might not be helping with diagnostics, if it is not performing as it should.

A couple of posts that maybe of interest, had you not already seen them, the second one is more to do with the electronics of the accelerator.

Foot down No Response for 10 sec

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1202-my-experience-with-jerkiness-at-low-revs-diesel/page__p__13606__fromsearch__1#entry13606

Are you taking it back to the dealership for more diagnostics?
 
Hi Carl

Thanks for that - I had put the hosing back before hand, and all tests were independent of each other (test drives and re-setting error codes between). Should have seen the number of codes from disconnecting the MAF!!!

Couldn't really tell how it went with the MAF off - in limp mode its so limited anyway, it barely drives!

Thanks for those two threads - I will try that throttle sensor first, then the fuel filter. I already bled this, but the dealer did confess yesterday that they wouldn't necessarily use genuine Honda parts (looking at the fuel filter it doesn't look brand new to me so I doubt they changed it anyway).

I'm trying all the 'free' fixes first, but am quickly running out. If I need to spend money then I'll get it back into Honda, tell them what I have tried and claim on the warranty.

I know I could do this anyway, but I like to do these things myself if I can - I enjoy playing with engines, and already have a much better idea of how it all works than before! :)

I still can't get my head around why disconnecting the solenoid valve would make it run right if the valve itself is ok!

Frustrating though, as I'm convinced it'll be a great car once it's sorted.
 
Mwah ha ha!

Fixed it - got fed up so bought a new fuel filter, fitted, bled, and guess what? Runs like perfect!

Oh well, good exercise, I now have very clean MAP and MAF sensors, and swirl chamber! All worthwhile things to do in their own right, I guess, and at least the solenoid valve cost me nought!
 
Hang on a sec (I don't have the time to re-read the entire thread) but after all this... did nobody (not even me) suggest you need to change the fuel filter first????
 
Don't worry Fahad, you can relax ( ;) ), it was the first thing you suggested, but I had a look at it first and it was an original filter, and the garage claimed to have done it. I even re-bled it to be sure.
 
Wow, I know I'm new to the forum but it's simply staggering how many issues are caused by knackered or non-genuine fuel filters...

Anyway, I know what the first thing I'll try will be if anything even remotely similar goes wrong!! :p
 
I initially got put off this by the frequency solenoid valve thread, as unplugging this caused an improvement as with the OP of that thread.

As a source of information to others, unplugging this valve will not demonstrate that it is faulty (or that it is fine) - if you unplug this the car reverts to using the base map on the ECU (rather than compensating with the MAF sensor etc), as it is part of a specific circuit. Unplugging the MAP or MAF sensors on the other hand are on a critical circuit, and so cause the car to go into limp mode, also not good to help diagnose the problem.

In other words, the thread on the solenoid valve shouldn't be used for diagnosis, as in the individuals case, it may have been lucky that it was actually the valve at fault. This doesn't mean its not worth trying, but try the fuel filter first, as its a third of the price! I was lucky as the car supplier was willing to pay for the parts.

Hopefully this thread will be useful for others.
 
Paul D said:
I initially got put off this by the frequency solenoid valve thread, as unplugging this caused an improvement as with the OP of that thread.

As a source of information to others, unplugging this valve will not demonstrate that it is faulty (or that it is fine) - if you unplug this the car reverts to using the base map on the ECU (rather than compensating with the MAF sensor etc), as it is part of a specific circuit. Unplugging the MAP or MAF sensors on the other hand are on a critical circuit, and so cause the car to go into limp mode, also not good to help diagnose the problem.

In other words, the thread on the solenoid valve shouldn't be used for diagnosis, as in the individuals case, it may have been lucky that it was actually the valve at fault. This doesn't mean its not worth trying, but try the fuel filter first, as its a third of the price! I was lucky as the car supplier was willing to pay for the parts.

Hopefully this thread will be useful for others.
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Nice one Paul,

Well it's another thread to highlight what a fuel filter can do!

It's also another thread to highlight not to trust someone who tells you that they have replaced the fuel filter. (not you Paul I mean the dealer)

Interesting that even just reverting to the base MAP you noticed such an improvement, considering it was the filter, just shows how finely tuned this things are.

you've also done well to get an new IMRC solenoid out of it, save you that issue for a good while ! Generally speaking you get a jerking or hesitation if the IMRC Solenoid is at fault, mainly because the IMRC valve is opening and shutting when it shouldn't, this causes the jerk / hesitation but doesn't generally throw up a code until it fails.
 
Well Paul at least you can start enjoying the car properly now. I know we tell nearly every diesel owner that their problem is related to a clogged or non genuine fuel filter.. but in truth it normally always is down to this!!

Maybe you want to consider that remap now ;)
 
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