CJM
Dr. Diesel
OK, I've still not fixed the issue but this may help us narrow it down.
I again today tried disconnecting the frequency solenoid valve (the new one). took it for a longish run including some motorway mileage - and it was absolutely fine, no problem whatsoever!
Re-connect it, and low and behold, the problem returns. As this is a brand new valve, it suggests its something else that's faulty, but is interrelated to this valve!
The garage had booked it in for Wednesday and were intending to strip the turbo off and send this for flow testing, but given this information, I'm not sure its worth it. The dealers also started hinting that if it can't be rectified by the garage easily (i.e. cheaply), he will return my old car, and the cash I had paid, minus the cost of the new tyres and MOT on my old car!
Obviously I don't want to go down this route - not least because they've now decided that my old car needs a new diff (gearbox started whining after they had it a few days).
Obviously doing this and flogging the accord at auction works out best for them, but leaves me worse than where I left off, so I'm not keen to do this.
Anyone have any ideas what else it could be?
Oh - first tank of fuel, averaged at 36mpg, but obviously the foot to floor action trying to get the thing to accelerate wouldn't exactly be helping this!
Does it look like they have replace the solenoid ?
As your brother in law has mentioned the injectors do need coding when replaced, but then this should have been done at the time. Just a thought as we have seen this on another thread, do you know whether the injectors are OEM or after-market ?
As disconnecting the IMRC seems to ease the issue It's worth checking the connections on the IMRC Solenoid and MAP Sensor make sure they are clean and tight.
It maybe also be worth cleaning the MAP sensor, I think it is located more on the side of the engine on the pre-facelift.
Here's a link, but this is a facelift so it will be slightly different.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1517-maf-map-sensor-cleaning-imrc-valve-cleaning/page__p__17712__fromsearch__1#entry17712
Also you are best resetting the ECU by pulling the fuse, this opens up the parameters more which then the ECU re-learns and eventually adjusts the parameters over a period of time.
Is there a code or something that is pointing towards the turbo? It's also worth having as much "free" diagnostics done at least if nothing else it rules things out, then when and if the dealer wants to take the car back then you have a better idea as to which way to turn.
Going back to the situation with the dealer, which would be worst keeping the car or getting the old car back. if you cannot get it sorted you could always trade it in against another, depends what gives you the most value.