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Newbie questions (2.4 Tourer, 7th Gen)

Galgo

Galgo

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Location
West Midlands
Car
Mk7 2.4 Tourer
I've been studying the various Honda manuals that came with my Accord to learn more about what everything does and how it happens. But I've got a few questions I can't seem to find the answers to. Maybe some of you guys could help a brother out with these newbie questions?

- Is there any way of making the doors lock as soon as you drive a short distance away?

- The tailgate doesn't open with the keyfob but I can close it by pressing the button on the tailgate. Opening and closing manually also works fine. Does this mean I need a new motor?

- My Navigation isn't working. Says something about a DVD read error. I ***ume this is the common (and expensive) problem everyone else is going on about where the drive needs to get sent off for repair to Alpine or someone like that?

- Is there a way of setting the time on the clock? The manual suggests the Nav system does this automatically via GPS... Obviously this isn't working for me right now...

- I can smell friction material from the o/s wheel. Which is more common to go on these - the flexi pipe or the caliper?

I'm getting Honda to service the car and give it a general check-over next week so fingers crossed they won't flag anything up that I don't already know about... lol

Thanks in advance guys! :)
 
Oh and I forgot to say, one other thing I noticed is that the rubber around the sunroof glass isn't flat in places. I read about rust causing this problem but I couldn't see any on the car with the sunroof open?
 
Hi mate, hope you are enjoying the car besides these issues you are having.
1st point no automatic way of locking doors have to press the switch on the drivers door locks all doors.
2nd not too sure about the tailgate issue I think your key should open it as I have a saloon and the key pops my boot open but doesn't close the boot. Could be motor, one of the other lads with a tourer will confirm.
3rd yeah sat nav lens reader has probability given up. There is a cheaper fix than the 300 pounds honda charge. There is a topic in the 7th gen area posted by Fahad. Have a look.
4th unfortunately the time is set through the sat nav so if it's on the blink you can't alter the time.
5th the rear calipers are known to bind on these so give them a refurb.
And finally the rusty sun roof is an issue more on the 8th gen you should be fine with a 7th.gen.
Hope this helps and good luck with the service.
 
Ashzz has answered most of them

Galgo said:
- The tailgate doesn't open with the keyfob but I can close it by pressing the button on the tailgate. Opening and closing manually also works fine. Does this mean I need a new motor?
Click to expand...
If it closes on the button on the tailgate and it does not close on the button on the keyfob then, ***uming the keyfob locks and unlocks the car, the button on the keyfob could be dodgy
If it closes on the button on the tailgate, then it should also close on the button on the keyfob, let me know if this is the case, because then the problem is in opening, and there are several good threads on trouble-shooting, with diagrams etc



Galgo said:
- My Navigation isn't working. Says something about a DVD read error. I ***ume this is the common (and expensive) problem everyone else is going on about where the drive needs to get sent off for repair to Alpine or someone like that?
Click to expand...

It could be the DVD that is causing the problem, especially if the DVD is a copy and not an OEM one




Galgo said:
- Is there a way of setting the time on the clock? The manual suggests the Nav system does this automatically via GPS... Obviously this isn't working for me right now...
Click to expand...
I'm sure that the clock can be changed manually, I have to do it when the clocks go forward or back. Might be difficult to get into the menu system though if the nav is showing an error



Galgo said:
- I can smell friction material from the o/s wheel. Which is more common to go on these - the flexi pipe or the caliper?
Click to expand...
Rear brakes on the Tourer are different from on the saloon. Very easy to fix this issue, it's usually the sliders or the pads getting jammed due to dirt in the shims
 
freddofrog said:
Ashzz has answered most of them


If it closes on the button on the tailgate and it does not close on the button on the keyfob then, ***uming the keyfob locks and unlocks the car, the button on the keyfob could be dodgy
If it closes on the button on the tailgate, then it should also close on the button on the keyfob, let me know if this is the case, because then the problem is in opening, and there are several good threads on trouble-shooting, with diagrams etc
Click to expand...
on the tailgate issue, if it's closing on the button fine but not opening, then it's most likely the struts that have lost their pressure. As a quick test, try to open the tailgate using the button on the key - if you hear the lock mechanism opening and the tailgate tries to open, give it a wee hand to get it moving. If it then opens up, the motor is most probably fine, but you'll need new struts to have it working properly.

There's a write up on here on how to change them yourself. Something I need to get round to at somepoint myself!!
 
^ no, it doesn't have to be the struts that cause this problem

it can also be the motor

it can also be the rod from the motor that needs greasing

it can also be the side sensors that have gone out of alignment


First thing he needs to test, is if the tailgate will close on the keyfob button. It it won't (but does on the tailgate button) then he needs to find the reason for that issue.

When it will close on the keyfob button, it it won't open on the keyfob button, the precise way that if fails to open will indicate the cause ....weak motor or greasing required, or out of alignment with the side sensors, out of alignment on the locking mechanism, and lastly (but actually less likely) the struts.

edit: and in my own experience, the dealers are worse than useless on this
 
Thanks for the replies folks.

The tailgate closes if I press the key fob button. If I press it to open it, I can hear the motor doing something and then it seems to close again. I've noticed that it feels quite heavy opening the tailgate by hand. In fact I have to open it with both hands... I'd like to point out I'm not a weedy sort of guy either lol

This is hard to explain so bear with me. When I open the tailgate by hand, it doesn't seem to go all the way up like you'd expect with hatchback cars or whatever... You know when you open it a certain amount and it does the rest of the work itself, and you hear that distinctive swoosh noise from the struts? Sorry if I'm not making sense!

Rear brakes - I might try and tackle the caliper/pads/flexi hose issue over the weekend if the weather holds out, otherwise I'll get Honda to look at it for me. I'm getting four new tyres fitted to the car tomorrow as they are all different makes/levels of wear and one of them was fitted the wrong way around *facepalm*

I might have a sneak peak at the brakes on that problem corner (incidentally the corner with the incorrectly-fitted tyre).

Navigation - my DVD is a bit scratched. Honda said they'll check it for me so I guess they can use one of their discs to test? My disc is the one that came with the car by the way, not a copy.

Thanks guys and sorry for the essay-style reply! :)
 
^ that description does sound like struts, it's not heavy to pull open by hand and it does raise itself with a small amount of help from halfway. The motor on mine just struggles to pull it open, if I give the motor a small amount of help from when it starts, it does pull it all the way up.

there's a thread on the Tourer brakes a long way back in the DIY section

when you say the disc is the one that came with the car, I presume that you mean that you didn't replace it, but that's not to say that a previous owner didn't replace it ?
 
I can't find the thread that I'm thinking of, but to get the rear caliper off the Tourer is very easy.

Here is a picture from this thread http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8128-7th-gen-tourer-rear-brake-overhaul/ (that thread is more than you need)

Locations-.jpg


the picture shows the two hex-heads that you undo, labelled "Caliper to carrier". Don't undo "Carrier to hub", you won't get anywhere undoing those.


also, a link that Matt might have meant in #6
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8623-accord-tourer-2004-tailgate-struts-replacement-guide/
 
Thanks Brian what you've posted up is very useful! Looks straightforward to sort the caliper.

Re. tailgate, yeah I was thinking it could be struts but wasn't sure if the tailgate is meant to be heavier as it's motorised. Estates I've owned in the past that you open by hand had tailgates that were so much lighter to open, just like with any hatch really. I can see why the motor is struggling to open it if the struts are shot on it.

I was looking at the Lings website last night and saw the prices for the struts :( Oh well!

DVD disc said v3.0 I think it was, has proper Honda branding on it and doesn't look like a copy. But it's quite scratched so I might be lucky and find it's just the disc only and not the drive... Anyway I'll see what Honda tells me about it on Wednesday.
 
^ try cleaning the disc, soapy water will do .....btw don't expect Honda dealers to be fonts of wonderment and dedication on older models
 
For what it's worth, I've had the DVD read error a few times since I got my 7th gen, and I've fixed it every time by giving the lens a wee clean with a cotton bud. If there isn't a DIY for this, I could probably write one up?
 
The rear caliber pistons can seize. A Honda dealer will want £400 plus for a new rear caliber but you can get a reconditioned one for £70 odd if you exchange your old one, and fit it yourself.
 
I haven't changed them myself but someone on here replaced the rear struts and didn't pay Lings prices. You could also try HH for a price on the struts. I'm thinking they were around £40 each off the top of my head.
You could also try working the tailgate up and down by hand a few times by hand to see if it frees things up a bit.
 
mattster said:
As a quick test, try to open the tailgate using the button on the key - if you hear the lock mechanism opening and the tailgate tries to open, give it a wee hand to get it moving. If it then opens up, the motor is most probably fine, but you'll need new struts to have it working properly.
Click to expand...
Interesting update to the tailgate problem that I discovered earlier this evening... When I pressed the key fob button I ever so slightly lifted the tailgate. It then opened up on its own the rest of the way! I didn't have to lift it up much by the way, maybe an inch if that. It also closed as normal using the key fob.

Is it still worth going for new struts or is there something else I should be checking first?
 
freddofrog said:
^ try cleaning the disc, soapy water will do .....btw don't expect Honda dealers to be fonts of wonderment and dedication on older models
Click to expand...
I did that, no difference. Even tried Autoglym Super Resin Polish (don't laugh - this did actually work on a scratched CD I had once!), still no difference.

Miah said:
For what it's worth, I've had the DVD read error a few times since I got my 7th gen, and I've fixed it every time by giving the lens a wee clean with a cotton bud. If there isn't a DIY for this, I could probably write one up?
Click to expand...
I'll see if Honda can test it with one of their own Navigation discs rather than my one, to eliminate the problem being the disc or the drive. It probably needs a new laser on the drive anyway to be honest as the drive is 11 years old I guess?

But yeah if it doesn't work for them I'm happy to have a go at cleaning the lens myself, see what happens. Definitely not buying a new drive, especially not at £5k from Honda lol
 
Galgo said:
Interesting update to the tailgate problem that I discovered earlier this evening... When I pressed the key fob button I ever so slightly lifted the tailgate. It then opened up on its own the rest of the way! I didn't have to lift it up much by the way, maybe an inch if that. It also closed as normal using the key fob.

Is it still worth going for new struts or is there something else I should be checking first?
Click to expand...
the problem with all these threads on the tailgate is that it's very difficult to say what the problem is.

You did say in #9 "I've noticed that it feels quite heavy opening the tailgate by hand. In fact I have to open it with both hands", which implies struts.

But in my experience on my own car, if the motor is struggling on the initial pull but lifts if you help the first couple of inches, then the "rod" or "ram" between the motor unit and the tailgate needs greasing, which is actually a service interval thing, but also in my own experience, the dealers never bother.
 
freddofrog said:
the problem with all these threads on the tailgate is that it's very difficult to say what the problem is.

You did say in #9 "I've noticed that it feels quite heavy opening the tailgate by hand. In fact I have to open it with both hands", which implies struts.

But in my experience on my own car, if the motor is struggling on the initial pull but lifts if you help the first couple of inches, then the "rod" or "ram" between the motor unit and the tailgate needs greasing, which is actually a service interval thing, but also in my own experience, the dealers never bother.
Click to expand...
Freddofrog/Brian is correct - it is very difficult to say what the issue is without looking at the actual car with the fault, removing trim panels and other bits n pieces..

Best course of action would be to review all the threads on here - then strip the tailgate down to have a look at the components - you'd need to strip a few items off to replace the struts anyway, so before you buy them check/regrease the rod between motor and tailgate and take a look at the sensors as well. It's a free fix if it works!

For my own car, I'm convinced it's the struts losing pressure. My tailgate will open fine in the summertime when it's hot (higher pressure), but not in the winter when it's cold (lower pressure). On the rare day last year that we got close to 30 degrees in Scotland, it opened fine, but then wouldn't close on the button!!

When I do get round to replacing the struts on mine, I'll be sure to inspect the other parts of the ***embly and clean/regrease where required.
 
Thanks for your help guys. I'll use this guide to help me remove the trim of the tailgate and do some investigation over the weekend.

From looking at the diagrams on this page, I am ***uming the motor is the "drive unit" on the nearside?
 
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