Hi! I am new here. I read lots of chats but nothing same like my one. Quick story: i bought a car with noisy timing chain. I changed the both chains and guides, after start i made a test run. No power, lots of blue smoke. Turbo broken to pieces. I fitted a new turbo on it. Car start, everything is fine. After the first foot down turned to limp mode. Every start run ok, pull great from bottom till first foot down. (Egr) i took of the egr and no piston in there, blanking plate between egr and head. (Thanks for last mechanic) i get a used egr. Fitted. Now no check engine, everythink is ok now, but till 2000rpm the car is dead. New chain, new turbo, oem fuel filter, everything is new and quality. So with blank plate was strong low rpm, but limp after first over rev. Now ok to rev but no low rpm power. What can be it? :-/
No power
- Thread starter RedDragon
- Start date
Jon_G
No Longer Active
If this is a facelift (6 speed) model then maybe the EGR valve actuator (EVR) is faulty?
How do you know the ECU is stock? Could have been badly mapped.
Blanking the EGR will cause limp mode because the MAF readings will stay high when the ECU calls for EGR.
I have to replace my chains... did you need any special tools? Where did you buy the chains, tensioners and guides?
How do you know the ECU is stock? Could have been badly mapped.
Blanking the EGR will cause limp mode because the MAF readings will stay high when the ECU calls for EGR.
I have to replace my chains... did you need any special tools? Where did you buy the chains, tensioners and guides?
AndyHK
Members
It wouldn't be stock ECU map if thé EGR is blanked. It has to be map out from it. Maybe go to Honda for a full diagnostic check mate
They blank it and the light was on with egr fault code. I changed yesterday for other one, no light on, but no power.
I did change the chain on my driveway. Dont need any special tool, may be the belt removing will be tricky.
guides from honda, chains is FEBI from german. Not an easy job. I think easier if you take of the all engine. I done without take off.
I did change the chain on my driveway. Dont need any special tool, may be the belt removing will be tricky.
guides from honda, chains is FEBI from german. Not an easy job. I think easier if you take of the all engine. I done without take off.
Yep my garage lads also said its an engine out job to do properly.
Really hard to comment like this without diagnostics and visibility of what the map is doing but it's likely either the egr, turbo actuator, imrc or a leak somewhere in the boost or intake side
Really hard to comment like this without diagnostics and visibility of what the map is doing but it's likely either the egr, turbo actuator, imrc or a leak somewhere in the boost or intake side
And also could be the MAF - I know someone had a very similar issue recently after cleaning their intake manifold and on reassembly it did exactly this and there were no errors.. turned out (probably coincidence) that his MAFS had gone bad.
MAF is on airfilter box yes? I cleaned that few days ago. I think something with egr. With same MAF same everything just with blanked egr its spined the tyres in 2nd gear. But after it came the limp mode. With new egr no limp mode, no lights on and no power. Have to delete? Light is doesn't show anything. Now i go to my friend, he have a snap on diagnostic reader. May we find something. I hope!!!
Jon_G
No Longer Active
MAF sensor is at rear of airbox. Cleaning it doesn't fix all problems, but you make a good point about it probably being OK.
Like I said, if it's a facelift model then the EGR valve actuator will cause EGR problems. Worth a quick check?
Like I said, if it's a facelift model then the EGR valve actuator will cause EGR problems. Worth a quick check?
I went up to epson to my friend. On the way back loose more power. Ones start make some stupid (diesel) knocking noise, after 200 yards this noise turn to rattle noise. Engine is stoped. RAC took me to home. I arrived 30min ago.
These have iat on the mafs itself.
If it's fine when you blank it then we can remap it with either stage 1 or 2 and you can leave your blanking plate on, we can remove the error so it doesn't go into limp mode.
Jon makes a good point, is this a 5 or 6 speed car? Is the egr vac or electronic?
If it's fine when you blank it then we can remap it with either stage 1 or 2 and you can leave your blanking plate on, we can remove the error so it doesn't go into limp mode.
Jon makes a good point, is this a 5 or 6 speed car? Is the egr vac or electronic?
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Just to be completely clear - before you replaced the noisy chains - was the car running fine? Even with the EGR blanked off? How did you damage the turbo?
Or did you 'accidentally' buy the car a noisy chains, a wrecked turbo and a blanked (and damaged) EGR valve that meant the car was in limp mode? That would be odd for someone who sounds like they understand cars.
Or did you 'accidentally' buy the car a noisy chains, a wrecked turbo and a blanked (and damaged) EGR valve that meant the car was in limp mode? That would be odd for someone who sounds like they understand cars.
Ok, a little story
I am building hondas 9-10years ago. But only "D" and "B" series. Best was d16z6 400hp 11.2@214km/h full street. Few weeks ago i got a good news from my girlfriend. We are expecting our first baby. so i gived up the tuning and i choice a large diesel car, (i-ctdi estate). I found one for really cheap. They sold with noisy timing chain and it was!!! So i took to home with trailer and just start up to park to the driveway. I was order new chains and guides from honda. I fitted, start it up. I did play to days to fire up the engine. The 2nd injector gived up. One of my mate took it of with special tools. He did take of the cup and put a rod on it and hammer out. Came out "easy". So, something happened with this injector, because the all of fuel came out of the top. I took out again, taked to pieces and put together. The car is started for first key turn. Then on the first testrun i got check engine light, because ones i put the ignition on while the wire loom was on the side. So, first run was in limp mode and massive blue smoke behind me. I never seen like this before. Turned around and go back home. My girlfriend give few rev for engine, i pushed the intercooler pipe=no boost. So i get a new turbo. Next day i fitted it. First run with new turbo was to my work place. On the way to there i went in limp mode, on the way back the light was on, but i was rev it over 2000rpm. Ones i kicked it, spinning tyre in second gear, then limp mode again. Read the code=egr valve. I get a used egr in good working order. As soon as i fitted, i loosed the power from bottom. No foult code. Following day (yesterday) i went to wembly to my friend. He checked again with snap-on machine=no code, still no power. on the way to home i did hear a stupid ticking noise when a car passed me. I though it was the other car, then overtake me an other car with same noise, then i knew it is the my one. The car in natural between 1000-1500rpm start to shake a bit. I was feel it on the body. Then i start to move again and the thicking noise turned to rattling noise. I cant remember i stoped the engine or itself. After two min later i was try to start it again. No luck, hears like battery give up, turn, but slowly. :-/ then 15-20 min later i did try again, the engine is fired up, with the same noise. RAC came, took me home. Now i am working. I didn't check anything after it.
I am building hondas 9-10years ago. But only "D" and "B" series. Best was d16z6 400hp 11.2@214km/h full street. Few weeks ago i got a good news from my girlfriend. We are expecting our first baby.
so i gived up the tuning and i choice a large diesel car, (i-ctdi estate). I found one for really cheap. They sold with noisy timing chain and it was!!! So i took to home with trailer and just start up to park to the driveway. I was order new chains and guides from honda. I fitted, start it up. I did play to days to fire up the engine. The 2nd injector gived up. One of my mate took it of with special tools. He did take of the cup and put a rod on it and hammer out. Came out "easy". So, something happened with this injector, because the all of fuel came out of the top. I took out again, taked to pieces and put together. The car is started for first key turn. Then on the first testrun i got check engine light, because ones i put the ignition on while the wire loom was on the side. So, first run was in limp mode and massive blue smoke behind me. I never seen like this before. Turned around and go back home. My girlfriend give few rev for engine, i pushed the intercooler pipe=no boost. So i get a new turbo. Next day i fitted it. First run with new turbo was to my work place. On the way to there i went in limp mode, on the way back the light was on, but i was rev it over 2000rpm. Ones i kicked it, spinning tyre in second gear, then limp mode again. Read the code=egr valve. I get a used egr in good working order. As soon as i fitted, i loosed the power from bottom. No foult code. Following day (yesterday) i went to wembly to my friend. He checked again with snap-on machine=no code, still no power. on the way to home i did hear a stupid ticking noise when a car passed me. I though it was the other car, then overtake me an other car with same noise, then i knew it is the my one. The car in natural between 1000-1500rpm start to shake a bit. I was feel it on the body. Then i start to move again and the thicking noise turned to rattling noise. I cant remember i stoped the engine or itself. After two min later i was try to start it again. No luck, hears like battery give up, turn, but slowly. :-/ then 15-20 min later i did try again, the engine is fired up, with the same noise. RAC came, took me home. Now i am working. I didn't check anything after it.AndyHK
Members
Wow! That's quite a story and possibly very expensive. I'm not mechanic, but the noisy timing chain sounds suspicious to me, I would rather buy from elsewhere at the first place
(No offence but your English spelling....... I'm a bit struggling to understand your story lol)
(No offence but your English spelling....... I'm a bit struggling to understand your story lol
)Jon_G
No Longer Active
Fair enough to buy a car with a known problem, so long as it's cheap enough!
I'm currently discussing this very idea with a guy on Civinfo who's a mechanic and has bought a diesel Civic with noisy engine chains precisely because it's an expensive garage job, but actually pretty cheap if you know what you're doing, you have access to decent garage facilities and you're prepared to put in quite a few hours effort. Unfortunately my chains have become very noisy and I'm working out if I should replace them myself.
I'm currently discussing this very idea with a guy on Civinfo who's a mechanic and has bought a diesel Civic with noisy engine chains precisely because it's an expensive garage job, but actually pretty cheap if you know what you're doing, you have access to decent garage facilities and you're prepared to put in quite a few hours effort. Unfortunately my chains have become very noisy and I'm working out if I should replace them myself.
AndyHK
Members
Really no offence to you. In fact, I'm not British neither lolRedDragon said:
Well your English is far better than my Hungarian!
I stand by what I said in a previous post, you need some thorough diagnostics before you can decide what to do next. Have your injectors been coded to the ECU correctly?
I stand by what I said in a previous post, you need some thorough diagnostics before you can decide what to do next. Have your injectors been coded to the ECU correctly?
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Has one of the new chains/tensioners somehow failed?