Poor cold start. 2.2 cdti 2006

[West Wales Dave]

I have this CR-V with very poor cold start problem. I understand the system is similar on Civic's and Accords. Over the past couple of months its become harder to start, perhaps because the weather has got colder over the same period. I noticed the heater plug lamp was going out earlier and earlier over the weeks, and also, when it did eventually start, it would idle at its normal speed rather than being slightly raised for a minute or two.
A fault code had been logged, heater plug problem and battery voltage. I had suspected a failed heater plug, so removed them all and tested them, perfect. The relay "timer" cutting out too soon, fitted a new relay, just the same. And although the heater lamp goes out, the plugs are still energised for another 15 seconds or so. Not a whisper of smoke out the exhaust while cranking, for maybe a minute before she finally starts, then runs perfectly, all day. Starts ok with a slightly warm engine. I get the feeling if it had a pump with an excess fuel button it would fire up straight away. So what's telling the ECU its cold outside and needs more fuel ?? I have fitted a new battery as the old one was about 12 years old, no difference. Engine coolant temperature sensor replaced, MAF sensor replaced and now getting fault P0113 Intake air temperature sensor circuit high voltage !! With the original MAF sensor put back, no faults found. Still doesn't want to start. Any idea's out there. I don't have any data to test the individual components so a bit in the dark.
HELP !!

 

[F6HAD]

Most likely failing glow plugs. Otherwise a sticking egr, try blanking it temporarily. MAF error is likely if you’ve used a non genuine part. Stick to OEM (even a used one)

 

[Channel Hopper]

I have this CR-V with very poor cold start problem. I understand the system is similar on Civic's and Accords. Over the past couple of months its become harder to start, perhaps because the weather has got colder over the same period. I noticed the heater plug lamp was going out earlier and earlier over the weeks, and also, when it did eventually start, it would idle at its normal speed rather than being slightly raised for a minute or two.
A fault code had been logged, heater plug problem and battery voltage. I had suspected a failed heater plug, so removed them all and tested them, perfect. The relay "timer" cutting out too soon, fitted a new relay, just the same. And although the heater lamp goes out, the plugs are still energised for another 15 seconds or so. Not a whisper of smoke out the exhaust while cranking, for maybe a minute before she finally starts, then runs perfectly, all day. Starts ok with a slightly warm engine. I get the feeling if it had a pump with an excess fuel button it would fire up straight away. So what's telling the ECU its cold outside and needs more fuel ?? I have fitted a new battery as the old one was about 12 years old, no difference. Engine coolant temperature sensor replaced, MAF sensor replaced and now getting fault P0113 Intake air temperature sensor circuit high voltage !! With the original MAF sensor put back, no faults found. Still doesn't want to start. Any idea's out there. I don't have any data to test the individual components so a bit in the dark.
HELP !!

The Accord (well my Tourer) had a double earth run, joined for some reason with some superfluous bracket and bolts under the battery tray. There is a thread on here I posted a few years back

After removing the linking brackets/bolts following a no start at a client's address (nothing else to do), I got a few thousand miles more of starting power before finally ditching the standard battery.
The new one is a Transit sized version that 'just' fits in the same plastic sleeve, (but only just) and together the changes mean no issues in any weather conditions.

 

[West Wales Dave]

Most likely failing glow plugs. Otherwise a sticking egr, try blanking it temporarily. MAF error is likely if you’ve used a non genuine part. Stick to OEM (even a used one)

Well, I took the (un-branded) Glow plug relay off and put the original back on, that cleared the fault codes.. I blanked off the EGR valve, (it had almost accomplished this on its own with carbon deposits) Didn't make any difference to the cold starting, it did however illuminate the MIL lamp and log several fault codes activating the limp home mode. Interestingly, the the EGR cooler by-pass valve was stuck and once freed off seemed to boost the engine power output about 20%. Still didn't make it start any better after standing a few hours or cold..
I have yet to check the fuel rail pressure from cold start up. I had an idea it was very low for 30 seconds of cranking, then as it came up, the engine started.. Non-return valve ???
Still doesn't answer the absence of the increased idle speed for a minute or so. ! To be continued !!

 

[F6HAD]

Replace your glow plugs. Use genuine or original Bosch items.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Replace your glow plugs. Use genuine or original Bosch items.

Why would/should the management system be registering the rail as a fault in a non-cold start situation (ie. winter condition) when it is not a winter start?

Genuinely interested.