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Rear Brakes ... pads and disk replacement

Noticed you were asking about workshop manual on other thread. I think this would help you alot with this. I got mine from Winchester trading for 19.99.

Once installed you just select the category on the left for brakes but nothing will come up until you hit the search magnifying glass at bottom of page.
It's step by step instructions with diagrams and torque wrench settings also
 
csak1981 said:
Noticed you were asking about workshop manual on other thread. I think this would help you alot with this. I got mine from Winchester trading for 19.99.
Just had a look on that website the latest Accord manual is stated to be for a 2009-2010 is that the right one for my 2013?
 
Pickles said:
Just had a look on that website the latest Accord manual is stated to be for a 2009-2010 is that the right one for my 2013?
Just left a message via the contact form on their website and they don't do a manual for a 2013 :(
 
I'll need to look into that. I'm pretty sure i noticed mine had flats on both pins. I didn't actually have any probs with my rear pads i just changed them due to changing the fronts.

Need to check the orientation of the stainless steel retainer clips anyway so I'll have another look at how the pins are
 
Pickles said:
Just had a look on that website the latest Accord manual is stated to be for a 2009-2010 is that the right one for my 2013?
Must be due to the face lift models. I'm pretty sure alot of the mechanics of the car will be the same though might be worth buying it anyway. The procedure for brakes should be the same if not identical. Much of the 7th generation how 2's apply to the 8th gen so I'm sure much of the pre face lift 8th will be the same as yours
 
I just did an overhaul to both rear calipers and this is what I found. One side had both pins with flat sides and the piston was somewhat okay. The other side had one completely round pin and another with flat sides. Unfortunately I didn't check which was which, but I put them back according to the guide. Also, that caliper had the piston completely seized and pads were totally gone.
 
csak1981 said:
If the handbrake shoes are rubbing then on a bit of a long run the entire disk will heat up. But sticking slider pins or a sticking piston would cause caliper to heat up.

I had problems with squealing on my fronts when almost at a stop even after cleaning and re-lubing it would come back after a while. I also noticed once stopped when taking foot off pedal Ian's car was on slightest incline i could actually hear the pads sticking and feel a faint grumbling noise through the floor when they were releasing very slowly. I used silicone grease for the pins and ceratec for the pads which would be fine for around a month but would just wash off.

I've since came across proslip product which comes with 3 different products in there own separate tubes 12 pounds roughly on Amazon.

There is one tube used for slider pins one for where the pads touch the caliper and tube for where the piston and caliper touch the back of the pads.

There are videos on you tube where the guy explains why 3 different greases are required for the 3 areas of the brakes.

So far all the problems i was having are gone, at first i thought it was a sticking piston but looks like it was the movement of the slider pins and pads them self not releasing that was the problem. Just make sure you put the same amount of lube on each slider pin.
I managed to find time to change the calliper today and on a short drive both disks now seem to heat up the same, so I am hopeful I have solved the overheating matter. The only slight issue is the handbrake, I have adjusted the shoes and tried to adjust the cable (through the little hatch) but the latter didn't seem to want to do up so have still got 8 clicks. Do you have any other suggestions?

I put new pins in and the ones I was sent had flat surfaces on both.
 
If the adjustment nut inside of car is at the end of adjustment you will need to back it off or tighten a few turns and adjust at the wheels. This way you will have your adjustment range back if there is a next time you need to adjust.

It may not be at the end of its adjustment range it is really difficult to turn it there is a knack to it.

This is how i do it- if you've got 8 click til brakes bind you will need to tighten it half turn at a time using 12mm ring spanner. By tightening i mean turning spanner towards you whilst sitting in drivers seat. Place ring spanner over nut with spanner pointing as far away from you as possible then turn towards you and you will feel the the nut stop in a position where it feels like it's about to spring back this is the cable twisting then take spanner off and reposition away from you then turn towards you again and it should slip into next adjustment position which is now a half turn.

As i said in previous post have whole back of car jacked up and adjust until you you can't move each wheel by hand with the wheels attached with the handbrake on 5 clicks. You should start to feel them bind after 2-3 clicks. Once one wheel is locked at 5 clicks you can adjust the other wheel at its drum adjustment hole of its set different. This is how i set mine and handbrake shoes don't bind causing hot disks and i get a solid handbrake at 5-6 clicks of lever.

You'll first need to work out if you have adjustment range on inside of car or if it's at the end of it before starting this procedure.

How this helps
 
csak1981 said:
If the adjustment nut inside of car is at the end of adjustment you will need to back it off or tighten a few turns and adjust at the wheels. This way you will have your adjustment range back if there is a next time you need to adjust.

It may not be at the end of its adjustment range it is really difficult to turn it there is a knack to it.

This is how i do it- if you've got 8 clicks til brakes bind you will need to tighten it half turn at a time using 12mm ring spanner. By tightening i mean turning spanner towards you whilst sitting in drivers seat. Place ring spanner over nut with spanner pointing as far away from you as possible then turn towards you and you will feel the the nut stop in a position where it feels like it's about to spring back this is the cable twisting then take spanner off and reposition away from you then turn towards you again and it should slip into next adjustment position which is now a half turn.

As i said in previous post have whole back of car jacked up and adjust until you you can't move each wheel by hand with the wheels attached with the handbrake on 5 clicks. You should start to feel them bind after 2-3 clicks. Once one wheel is locked at 5 clicks you can adjust the other wheel at its drum adjustment hole if its set different. This is how i set mine and handbrake shoes don't bind causing hot disks and i get a solid handbrake at 5-6 clicks of lever.

You'll first need to work out if you have adjustment range on inside of car or if it's at the end of it before starting this procedure.

Hope this helps
Had to post again spelling errors and wouldn't let me edit
 
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