Replacing leaking crank seal

[exec]

Need some advice on an oil leak I have. Basically the car is leaking from the crank seal which will need replacing, unfortunately I will have to give the car to a garage to do this as its a bit beyond my basic knowledge of maintenance.

The mechanic says the engine needs to come out, so the labor cost will be £120, does anyone know if the engine really needs to come out? there seems to be conflicting information, as the timing belt needs to be removed and possibly changed if oil contaminated, so I would ***ume myself the engine needs to come out for this.

Cheers

 

[skhell]

I am quite sure the engine does not need to come out to replace the timing belt. I have my self changed mine a couple of years ago and there is lots of space to work...

Still, I think 150£ is not that bad for labour work, it takes some time to get there...

 

[exec]

Is it any easy job to do changing the timing belt? I know it will take some time to do, but how hard is the whole process, if the engine does not need to come out then I'm a bit tempted to do this myself. I read the difficult bit is getting the pulley out as its torqued to a really high figure and needs an air gun to take off unless you have special Honda tool for it.

 

[AndyB1976]

I bought this vid from EricTheCarGuy on the timing belt, also goes through cam and oil pump seal (not crank) however I guess they could be similar.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/1990-2002-honda-f-series-timing-belt-replacement-vmanual

This seal remover tool is also meant to make life so much easier with respect to poking around potentially scratching or scoring the seal housing.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411854186&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller


This is also a decent vid on the timing belt, not covering seals however...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMXAZSec18Y

 

[shab_the_man]

Check youtube dude, there atons of videos on how to replace the timing belts on honda. Ericthecarguy rocks and I love his videos

 

[skhell]

It's not that hard to replace, you just have to be patient and time.
This is a great guide to follow, it's basically the same, although they don't replace the seals:

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-timing-belt-timing-balancer-belt-water-pump-f22b1-1908944/

About the crankshaft pulley bolt, it's really really tight. I broke a socket wrench and a socket extension to remove it... I made simple tool to lock the crank pulley with a large nut and a couple of pipes welded. it worked great!

A couple of pictures when I removed the cranck bolt:

 

[exec]

Cheers for the tips lads. It doesn't look like a very hard job, but as you mention Pedro, looks to be time consuming, so gonna give it a miss, espeically as the weather has turned nasty

I know I will get stuck on the crank pulley and wont have the DIY tools like that, although I saw a vid on youtube where one guy he puts a wrench on the pulley and holds it against somehting strong and then cranks the engine and this unbolts the pulley. ill post the link up if I can find the vid.

Dreading giving it to garage, the MOT guy who filled up the oil when he saw it low has over topped it massively! Now am going to have to extract that out before it causes some other damage.

Bought the seals so just need to book her in, hope this fixes the rev issue thats developed in high revs too, got a funny mettalic noise when switching the engine off too.

 

[exec]

Heres the vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI

Not sure if it would work on our cars, looks a bit risky too!

 

[Jon_G]

Actually, that 'redneck' technique was the only way I managed to get my crankshaft pulley bolt undone recently... I really struggled to do it every other way possible first, including first buying a special locking tool for the pulley (but kept breaking my sockets and extension rods), then buying an electric impact wrench (which burnt out after 10 minutes of trying). But it still broke my T-bar and then made a hell of a bang when the bolt undid. I didn't need a pulley puller, it simply came off with fingers once the bolt was undone. I did write it up in a thread afterwards.

Only works if your pulley turns clockwise and the bolt has a right-hand thread (or vice versa on both accounts), but I'm pretty sure it'll work for all Honda engines and I know freddofrog did it this way on his K24.

 

[skhell]

I had to use 3/4 inch sockets and extension bars. Before that, I also broke both the extension and socket wrench...

 

[exec]

If it's so tight to take off, how on earth do you tighten it back on? I think the tourque setting for it is something like 181nm? Which is huge!

Also forgive my ignorance, but I thought cranking the engine without timing belt etc would damage valves?

 

[Jon_G]

I used the 50mm hex locking tool when torqueing it back on. Yes, turning the engine over with the timing belt off could well cause damage, but surely it's only the aux belt that has to be removed first before getting the pulley off? But I've rather strayed out of my depth here as I didn't realise some K-series motors had belts rather than chains!

 

[SayamaAccord]

I thought cranking the engine without timing belt etc would damage valves?

You can't get the timing belt off without removing the crank pulley so the belt is still on when you take the crank pulley bolt off.

 

[SayamaAccord]

I used the 50mm hex locking tool when torqueing it back on. Yes, turning the engine over with the timing belt off could well cause damage, but surely it's only the aux belt that has to be removed first before getting the pulley off? But I've rather strayed out of my depth here as I didn't realise some K-series motors had belts rather than chains!

6th Gens have F series engines.

 

[Jon_G]

See, I told you I was out of my depth here!

 

[exec]

Ah I thought in that vid the guy had taken the timing belt off!

Guess the above explains it!