Dan Robinson
Grand High Plumber
Ok. Full write up of changing the discs and pads of the Tourer. I just used Honda stock pads and discs as it seemed a little daft upgrading the rears which really do little real braking.
First off – get the car on stands and remove the wheels.
Next – Callipers. Remove the two nuts at the back of the calliper (A & B ) and the bracket that holds the brake line closest to the wheel ( C ). You might need WD40 to get the bracket bolts undone. Do not force them too much without putting a spanner on the lock nuts at the back and balancing your forces.
It is worth doing the other side at the same time as you will need the bolts that hold that bracket of for removing the disc.
Tie off the callipers so that the brake line is not kinked or stressed. Make sure that it is secure whilst you are working.
Next Undo the two 3 point Philips screws that hold the disc to the hub. They might be finger nail tight (like mine) or you might need an impact driver to get them loose.
Now, the first challenge. Many thanks to Rob for talking me through this bit as it had me a little flustered.
Get the disc off. Make sure you have the handbrake off. Remove the little rubber bung. Rotate the hub so that the hole for this bung is at 7 O’clock for the nearside, and 4 O’clock for the offside:
Using the bolts from the brake line brackets. Screw them in the little threaded holes on the disc.
Now carefully and alternating frequently, screw them clockwise to push the disc off the hub:
If the disc does not free up easily by the time the bolts are all the way in, then you need to free of the parking brake shoes. This requires a little torch and a flat bladed screwdriver.
Look through the hole that was bunged. You should see a little cog, side on:
This is what it looks like when the disc is off:
Poke the screwdriver through the hole and rotate the cog a little – using the blade of the screwdriver from top to bottom. Or have the handle point down and lever it up to turn the cog. This will release the shoe a little.
Repeat the initial disc removing process. If the disc still won’t come free then turn the cog a little more.
This is what you should be faced with:
I am not sure how much material should be on the parking shoes, so if anyone thinks mine are too worn let me know. I think mine were actually rubbing a little:
Using brake cleaner, give the new discs a good clean and check for any damage:
Now reassemble in reverse order. Rotate the newly fitted disc and listen for rubbing. Adjust your little cog so that it just stops this rubbing noise. Note you will probably need to adjust your handbrake afterwards.
Now for the callipers and pads. I did not bother to clean or renovate the callipers. Frankly after the hassle I had working out how to get the first disc off I didn’t have time or inclination. Beer O’clock was rapidly approaching.
Carefully ping the old pads out of the calliper. Be careful not to damage any rubber boot of the piston end. I gave mine a quick blast with the air compressor to get rid of dust and rust. As you can see my pads were VERY worn:
First off – get the car on stands and remove the wheels.
Next – Callipers. Remove the two nuts at the back of the calliper (A & B ) and the bracket that holds the brake line closest to the wheel ( C ). You might need WD40 to get the bracket bolts undone. Do not force them too much without putting a spanner on the lock nuts at the back and balancing your forces.
It is worth doing the other side at the same time as you will need the bolts that hold that bracket of for removing the disc.
Tie off the callipers so that the brake line is not kinked or stressed. Make sure that it is secure whilst you are working.
Next Undo the two 3 point Philips screws that hold the disc to the hub. They might be finger nail tight (like mine) or you might need an impact driver to get them loose.
Now, the first challenge. Many thanks to Rob for talking me through this bit as it had me a little flustered.
Get the disc off. Make sure you have the handbrake off. Remove the little rubber bung. Rotate the hub so that the hole for this bung is at 7 O’clock for the nearside, and 4 O’clock for the offside:
Using the bolts from the brake line brackets. Screw them in the little threaded holes on the disc.
Now carefully and alternating frequently, screw them clockwise to push the disc off the hub:
If the disc does not free up easily by the time the bolts are all the way in, then you need to free of the parking brake shoes. This requires a little torch and a flat bladed screwdriver.
Look through the hole that was bunged. You should see a little cog, side on:
This is what it looks like when the disc is off:
Poke the screwdriver through the hole and rotate the cog a little – using the blade of the screwdriver from top to bottom. Or have the handle point down and lever it up to turn the cog. This will release the shoe a little.
Repeat the initial disc removing process. If the disc still won’t come free then turn the cog a little more.
This is what you should be faced with:
I am not sure how much material should be on the parking shoes, so if anyone thinks mine are too worn let me know. I think mine were actually rubbing a little:
Using brake cleaner, give the new discs a good clean and check for any damage:
Now reassemble in reverse order. Rotate the newly fitted disc and listen for rubbing. Adjust your little cog so that it just stops this rubbing noise. Note you will probably need to adjust your handbrake afterwards.
Now for the callipers and pads. I did not bother to clean or renovate the callipers. Frankly after the hassle I had working out how to get the first disc off I didn’t have time or inclination. Beer O’clock was rapidly approaching.
Carefully ping the old pads out of the calliper. Be careful not to damage any rubber boot of the piston end. I gave mine a quick blast with the air compressor to get rid of dust and rust. As you can see my pads were VERY worn:
