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Turbo Boost P00AF

hale-pope

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10 i-dtec tourer ex
Evening all - i have a query about diagnostic code P00AF that comes up. It says it is to do with the turbo boost and my local indie garage have a Honda guy who says there is a recent bulletin about that and a software update is required, for a fee, but when i ask my local Honda dealer that have not got a clue what i am on about. It looks like i will need to take it to them to be sure but does this code, or this issue, ring any recent bulletin bells with anyone? I have out my VIN into the Honda website and no updates or recalls are noted in there. Thank you in advance.
 
I'm seeing this more and more on the IDtec engines. It is due to soot build from the DPF coking up the actuator.

The actuator movement becomes restricted and can no longer deliver the requested boost.

I'll post a link shortly to our service for turbo strip down and clean to solve this. Really you need to also replace or remove the dpf which is causing this in the first place.
 
P00AF appeared now third time. Light came up during slow acceleration. Is this jammed and dirty turbocharger the most likely reason or might there be something else?

Any experience about this fault code and how did you fix it?
 
Yes it's a sticking actuator due to blocked vanes from DPF ash blowback.
 
Nope that's a common turbo error on modern diesels with the Bosch edc17 ecu series fitted to a variety of European engines. It's very common on the honda due to poor DPF design.
 
Few questions about Accord turbo.

Is there any difference between year 2009 and 2013 Accord turbo charger? Any idea what might be part numbers?
And where to buy new one? Is there any sense to get reconditioned or is the original/new garrett only option? Honda dealer prices are very...very expensive.
 
I also got this fault code this morning. Slow acceleration cold engine and the engine lamp came on. Stopped/started the car and it was running ok after that. Cleared the fault code, took it for a ride and it was running normal.

Is cleaning/replacing the only option here?
 
Yep. It's sticking due to vanes being clogged with hardened soot.
 
Cleaning the turbo is straight forward once it's out? Any parts/sealings needed?
 
It's straightforward for someone who is used to disassembling and reassembling them yes. Sometimes they can need a set of vanes or an actuator, but you won't know this until it's disassembled.

In the dozen or so my mechanic has done on the idtec cars, a couple needed vanes because they were chipped and one had a burnt out actuator.
 
Ok thanks for your reply!. however, i can move the arm from the actuator and it move freely. After i cleared the fault code it have not come back and the car runs like it should. Have taken the car out on the highway and took it for a really good drive today and still no fault code back.
 
Then it's in the early stages of sticking. Lubricate the actuator arm with some grease and manually ensure it has a full free range of movement, and then take for a long run and really open it up so the turbo gets a good working across its boost range.
 
I get the sticking accuator n limp mode at speeds of 110-120 mph.
3 clean starts clears it. N £10 to local garage to clear cel.
Fahad what type if grease shoukd I put on it. Usual hmp stuff.
 
Yes anything that can cope with high temps and stays viscous for as long as possible
 
Just had the engine light come on and limp mode on the way home. Using a cheap obd2 scanner I'm getting codes P00AF and U0029.
Don't have a dpf, could the vanes still be sooted up?
Actuator arm seems to move freely. Any ideas anyone?
Is it still okay to drive or could I knacker the whole engine?
 
It can still stick yes, you won’t knacker the engine no but do try and free it up and ensure there is full free range of movement all the way. If it persists then needs a turbo strip down and clean or replace
 
I applied some grease to the actuator, where it moves up into the body. The car is running as it should and revving freely but the eml light is still on.
Will disconnecting the battery for an hour reset this or do I need a better scan tool that can clear the fault codes?
 
Dear Type Accord community,

After 11 years and 220 000 or so km added by me(for a total of ~320k) the engine in my trusty Honda has now come to a point where it is experiencing issues. And has shown it's Check engine light for real for the first time (i.e. not by me either me forgetting to plug someting in, or simply not plugging something in out of curiosity during servicing). So contrary to as the chaff goes, Hondas do indeed have an engine light. Maybe not as prone to coming on as a VWs though.

I practically only do longer journeys (>15km, regularly 45 minutes at 80-120km/h) etc. The DPF light has never come on, every now and then I notice a significant increase in fuel usage during a trip, and when I arrive the exhaust is hot indeed. So I suppose my DPF is as good as can be at 320k kilometres.

Anyway. This summer I've been towing a caravan around a bit. And a total of 4-5 times the engine has gone in to limp mode. I think every time after at least 2 hours of driving with constant heavy load on the engine. Fuel consumption about 11-12L/100km. The first time CEL during extra heavy load - accelerating up to speed after a town on a decent incline.

First time it logged P00AF. Shutdown and restart and it ran fine and got us gome.

Then maybe 2-3 weeks passed without any towing, I tried provoking it by heavy acceleration, high load etc, but it ran just fine. As it always has. I figured, yes there's something not 100 up to spec, but it is running and after so many miles, it is forgiven for missing once. I'll let is pass for now.. but it kept nagging in the back of my mind.

On this last trip, on the outbound leg, after about 2 hours of very good going, I for some reason decided to see if it could be provoked. And indeed, up a long incline, accelerating from ~30 to 80, just as I was approacing redline, shift to 4 and settle in, engine goes in to limp mode and looses almost all power. Luckily there's a small but ample spot along to road to pull over. I let it idle away a bit of heat from the turbocharger while rummaging for the code reader.

P1236, something with the fuel system. I clear the code, cycle ignition and carry on my merry way.

Then shorter trips for a week, no issues.

However on the leg home this morning, clear roads, good flow, eating up the miles. When about 45 minutes from home, it throws CEL and looses all power. The little it has in limp mode is not enough to move the caravan safely along a road I can tell you that. P00AF. I clear it, cycle ignition, this thing with the maybe clogged turbo added to the list of things to anxiety over.

I continue driving. At first it appears to run OK, however there is a small but noticable lack of power. Within only 10-15 kms or so it goes in to limp mode again. Pull over. PA00AF. Cycle ignition, it revs normally in neutral so I continue. Can't help but feel it is lacking a bit of power when trying to accelerate, no engine light though. After a short bit normal power appears restored and I make it home.

This to me are symptoms of soot build up, clogged vanes, what have you. It's fine, it has done 320k kms without missing a beat and now it's struggling a bit when asked to pull twice heavy a load as it's used to.


Question is what I do about it. I do not want to give up the car. It is to this day very good, there's nothing on the market I could have in the same leauge comfort, reliability, performance, economy etc for me without coughing up £20 000 and then I will have a **** with electronic parking brake, maybe not even an oil dip stick, and 1000 other things I don't want. But if I can't rely on the engine as it stands, I either need to fix it, or move on.

Thing is that this is quite a rare car in Sweden. You almost want to wave if you see another one on the road. So I've not been able to find any tinkerers specialising in these, doing DPF delete e.g. So unless I could swing it myself, I wouldn't know where to take it. Maybe I could turn the DPF to a what effectively would be a pipe, I wouldn't know where to start disabling the highway regens from the ECU.

I can get an ***umed good used turbo, for about £450. If one could find a low mileage one, it should not have these issues yet. But that still leaves me with my DPF. I'd say it is still working OK for what it is and the mileage, and I don't think it's abnormally blocked, but it will of course over time build up soot on this turbo too. But if I get another 200k out of it, I'd be pretty OK with that. By then most of the bodywork will have rusted away anyways..

I also still need to return the caravan, 300 kilometres away. I'm not sure that's quite a good idea given how it performed on the last leg home today.

That became an essay, sorry about that.

TLDR:
High mileage 2009 Accord 2.2 Diesel Manual
320 000 km
11 eyars of ownership and 200 000 km of no engine issues
Pretty much optimal vehicle usage for the DPF.
Starting to tow 1.5ton caravan
Car throws P00AF
Car drives fine
P1236, drives fine again efter stop/start.
P00AF. Slight lack of power is noticed, but normalizes.

What do you reckon?


IMG_2316 (2).jpeg
 
Pretty standard issue here. P1236 is an overboost error and P00AF means your vanes are sticking. The overboost is triggered because the vanes are sticking and creating too much boost when the ecu isn’t requesting it.

Depending on how handy you are you could remove, strip and clean it out yourself or just replace it. Regarding your dpf, drop me a PM I can help.
 
Thank you for your reply. I'm reasonably handy, in theory removing, cleaning and putting it back should be within my comfort zone. But in practice the bolts will be completely seized, I'll probably break off a stud, round off a head etc.. Maybe I'll start poking at it and see if I feel comfortable continuing. In either case, it needs to come off, either by my hand or a professionals. If I break it I still have my summer car to get me around until they start dumping tons of salt on the roads.

You reckon I need to get rid of the DPF, or it ought to be "fine" with the turbo cleaned out? As I stated, it has never forced a regen and lived a pretty decent life as far as DPFs go.

PM dropped.
 
Regarding the bolts, use an impact driver as your first tool, not after a spanner or wrench has not worked.
 
Regarding the bolts, use an impact driver as your first tool, not after a spanner or wrench has not worked.

Spray everything that might need undoing the night before with penetrating fluid , if a bolt does feel really seized, try tightening slightly to break the corrosion.
 
I went poking around a bit yesterday and sprayed what I could access with penetrating fluid. Could only really get to the big heat shield that covers the exhaust manifold, hot side of the turbo, DPF and what have you. I'll see if I can get the heat shield off today to get a bit more access and see what's what.
 
Ok so I managed to get the heat shield off without removing the A/F sensor, as that would have required some sort of special tool to get at with the heat shield in place. I think you're supposed to take the A/F sensor off first though as a bit of persuasion was necessary to negotiate the shield over the sensor..

This allowed to better ***ess everything, and easier access to the VVT actuator arm. Now I don't have anything to compare too, but there's no discernable play, and it moves really quite easily. I was expecting it to be difficult to move, and being able to feel it catch on all sorts of crud within the housing. But nah, it feels all right to me for what it is? Or just how easily is it supposed to move? Of course conditions are likely to be quite different after a couple of hours of heavy engine load.

I was thinking to split the turbo on the vehicle, leaving either the hot or cold side on the vehicle, to then be able to get to the VVT ring and nozzles, to clean it out.


But I'm at a bit of a loss;

-The cold side has A LOT more things going on, coolant hoses and pipes, vacuum hoses, oil pipes, air intake, boost pipe etc etc. So quite complex. But bolts, hose clamps etc looks to be in decent shape.
-The hot side has almost nothing going on in comparison - only rust. So what it lacks in complexity it makes up for in heavy dutiness and apparent seizedness. I reckon I'd first have to remove the DPF/cat ***embly, split it from both the turbo and exhaust. Split the turbo from the exhaust manifold, and loosen the two "nuts" under the turbine housing. I write "nuts" as they look more like two solid chunks of rust than stud and nut.

Or is this idea stupid? Should I just remove the whole thing and split it on the bench?

Had a bit of a feel on one of the bolts holding the turbo together and it was not difficult to loosen, however at least 2 of them will be a real pain to get to with the thing on the vehicle. Especially the one at the very bottom...

I don't think I'll be able to tackle the hot side without breaking several things.


Could it be anything else than clogged VVT mechanism? seeing as it moves quite easily.

BTW, on Tuesday I drove 2x55km, and really tried provoking it, but no, without the caravan it doesn’t seem possible to trigger limp mode. At least not on the roads around here. I either ran out of incline, or reached speeds which would leave me without a license for quite some time before any CEL.
 
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