VSA, ABS and airbag flashing on display
- Thread starter bijomaru
- Start date
petrol or diesel? still flashing or staying lit up?
could hopefully just be a sensor,
Intermittent charging. The battery is ok. When the AA guy was testing it sometimes it was charging fine then it wasn't.
Car's back home now, so am I. With a courtesy Corsa
Will get my neighbour mechanic to have a look at it. Hope it's something as simple as alternator rather than some electronic module etc
Car's back home now, so am I. With a courtesy Corsa
Will get my neighbour mechanic to have a look at it. Hope it's something as simple as alternator rather than some electronic module etc
A
Attaboy
Guest
Sounds the likely culprit...and if it is only an alternator then it will mean a bill but not squeaky *** time B)
Be careful when testing alternator output on these cars. Because they have smart alternators they don't charge all the time. So may not be the alternator, my money would be on the battery. I'm sure someone else had this problem a while back. HH was doing batteries for £38.50 the other day, a lot cheaper than an alternator.
Tiberious SG
Members
I had the Ticking sound when I bought my car and a couple of times a series of warning lights flashed in the first few minutes of driving. (again never had a breakdown, and initially the ticking went away after the car was running) I even thought it was normal at first as this is my first diesel.
I too believed it was the alternator, but after some advise from the forum I borrowed a battery and swapped it out as a test. this solved the issues. so I bought an uprated AGM battery and have not had an issue since. So try a battery before you go down the alternator route.
I too believed it was the alternator, but after some advise from the forum I borrowed a battery and swapped it out as a test. this solved the issues. so I bought an uprated AGM battery and have not had an issue since. So try a battery before you go down the alternator route.
How old is the battery you have at the moment??? How did the AA guy test the battery? My advice would be dont take the sole word of the AA man to be the correct diagnosis. It could be a dodgy cell in the battery. To test the battery properly, you need a load tester run across it for 10 seconds.
He tested it measuring the voltage on the battery and output from the alternator. When he arrived the battery was at 9v i think. He charged it up from a box to 12.5 and started the car. It was charging from alternator. We drove to a safe place and he tested it again. This time it wasn't charging. If you guys say it's not charging at all times as a feature, then obviously he had no idea about this.
He tested the battery for EMs. From his book I think it should have had 650 EMs and it had ... whatever that means.
The battery is the same since I got the car almost 3 years and 60k miles.
I have a friend mechanic bringing his gear tomorrow to test it and will see what he says.
When I got home I got in the car and it started without problems, no lights came up, I could park it up. But I'd rather be sure it's ok before I set off for a longer journey.
He tested the battery for EMs. From his book I think it should have had 650 EMs and it had ... whatever that means.
The battery is the same since I got the car almost 3 years and 60k miles.
I have a friend mechanic bringing his gear tomorrow to test it and will see what he says.
When I got home I got in the car and it started without problems, no lights came up, I could park it up. But I'd rather be sure it's ok before I set off for a longer journey.
Mate, if you're battery was reading 9v it's toast. I posted about this the other day.
If a 12v lead acid battery is fully discharged @ room temp it should read 11.89v. 9v is massively down on that and suggests you have lost at least one of the six cells.
It also suggests that you need to join the RAC.
Get a new battery and I'm sure all will be well. As I said before HH were doing them for £38.50.
If a 12v lead acid battery is fully discharged @ room temp it should read 11.89v. 9v is massively down on that and suggests you have lost at least one of the six cells.
It also suggests that you need to join the RAC.
Get a new battery and I'm sure all will be well. As I said before HH were doing them for £38.50.
I'm only with AA because it's included with my bank account. I guess at least I could pick up friends from airport with the courtesy car and the car got back home. At least that's how AA came handy.
When you say HH. do they ship it? Because obviously I can't get there now, especially from Swindon
When you say HH. do they ship it? Because obviously I can't get there now, especially from Swindon
Ok well I am hopeful and will try to find out tomorrow. If it's the battery then I'll get on of HH.
Just one thought, with a flat battery, why would my display go crazy? Check VSA, Check ABS, Check Airbags flashing every half a second, dual AC and Internal AC. Windows had trouble going up so that's like a drained battery. But all the other symptoms? Oh and I did not see the Battery lamp coming on. I'm sure I'd see that if it was on before the lights came on.
Just one thought, with a flat battery, why would my display go crazy? Check VSA, Check ABS, Check Airbags flashing every half a second, dual AC and Internal AC. Windows had trouble going up so that's like a drained battery. But all the other symptoms? Oh and I did not see the Battery lamp coming on. I'm sure I'd see that if it was on before the lights came on.
Definitely your battery. Just one knackered cell would cause this. Besides if it's already dropped to 9v, it's already on its way out as the cells are weak. Buy a new genuine Honda battery then look at an alternator but don't chuck money on an alternator mate.
Battery would be a safe bet first, if its your alternator I think you would know something was wrong as all the ones that have failed to my knowledge have made a horrible noise and its the pulley/clutch part that fails normally only requiring that part to be replaced. £75 from honda plus fitting and new shorter aux belt.
The reason all the lights come on is because of the low voltage. The ECU throws a hissy fit and all kind of weird things can happen.
The battery light is nothing to do with the battery, it comes on when rhe alternator isn't charging.
Salim
Does the £75 include fitting? I may get that done anyway as Steve at HH said there was a little noise probably from the alternator pulley but it wasn't too bad at a time.
The AA guy ***umed it was the alternator as it wasn't charging at all times. However if this is normal then I guess if the pulley had gone I'd see a increase in the noise or it wouldn't be charging at all.
I'll get the guy to have a look today then order one from Honda if that's it. I guess I could get one anyway. At that price and after at least 60k on that battery it deserves replacing.
Does the £75 include fitting? I may get that done anyway as Steve at HH said there was a little noise probably from the alternator pulley but it wasn't too bad at a time.
The AA guy ***umed it was the alternator as it wasn't charging at all times. However if this is normal then I guess if the pulley had gone I'd see a increase in the noise or it wouldn't be charging at all.
I'll get the guy to have a look today then order one from Honda if that's it. I guess I could get one anyway. At that price and after at least 60k on that battery it deserves replacing.
Battery has arrived. Fitting it later and having the whole thing checked as well. Looking forward to having it fixed.
BTW, can someone explain why would the alternator not charge at all times and what's the reasoning for this? Should it pick up the charging if my battery was near flat? And I 'only' had A/C and navigation on.
BTW, can someone explain why would the alternator not charge at all times and what's the reasoning for this? Should it pick up the charging if my battery was near flat? And I 'only' had A/C and navigation on.
It could be what Fahad said a duff cell but intermittent causing the charging problem.
Got the battery replaced. The 'light' on the old wasn't green, I guess due to its age, but it was also leaking the battery fluid from around the + connector.
It's charging a lot better, now stays at 14V even with everything on. Will test it tomorrow properly. Thanks for all the advise guys
It's charging a lot better, now stays at 14V even with everything on. Will test it tomorrow properly. Thanks for all the advise guys
Smart alternators I believe (not totally sure) work on the principle of saving fuel by only charging the battery when needed. This is why they have a clutch, this allow it to be disengaged from the drive. Alternators put load on engine thus use fuel. This is only from what I've read, but makes sense.
The bad cell on your battery must have just failed when you broke down as they can't come and go.
Good result Rob all fit for the HH meet nowGot the battery replaced. The 'light' on the old wasn't green, I guess due to its age, but it was also leaking the battery fluid from around the + connector.
It's charging a lot better, now stays at 14V even with everything on. Will test it tomorrow properly. Thanks for all the advise guys