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No issue in removing it on this engine, only benefits.

Just remove your little gasket and use as a template to make one with some metal sheet. It’s not difficult.

It needs to go on a diagnostic system for a proper functional test.

Don’t put any flushes through it, just stick to a normal fluid change with genuine MTF3.

If the engine is cold then possibly a sticking egr valve (try temporarily blanking egr). If engine is warm then likely a bad fuel pressure relief valve.

I hadn’t realised that. I’ve swapped headlight relays on other cars (most recently one of my old Saabs a few months ago) for the very same issue. I had always ***umed it was the same replaceable item on a Honda. I guess you never stop learning in life!

If banging the fusebox is solving it then sounds like a sticky relay. Just locate the correct one using the fusebox key printed on the box (or possibly in your owners manual) and simply remove and replace it.

Have you tried replacing the headlight relay?

Sounds like a knackered engine mate, the oil sludge has done its damage. My mind went to turbo seals but you’ve done that.

If you’ve seen your dpf light come on even once, it’s already toast. No amount of cleaning and forced regens will cure it. Drop me a line if you need a solution.

Yes where the loom comes through and becomes stretched and stressed over time. I’ve seen this happen multiple times now on these especially as they get older.

Check for broken wires in the wiring loom where it runs through the hinge area. They’re known for breaking over time.

Thank you very much for the kind review and feedback, always a pleasure to have someone place their trust in our work.. especially when it involves travelling such a long distance. I hope it gives you years of happy motoring.

Normally behind the bumper on the driver side. Remove the bumper and follow the aircon pipework

You can use a feeler gauge to check for gap normally

If it is then I’ve personally never seen it, but I have seen multiple examples of the gearshift indicators not working due to bad software.

Stick to 0w30 fully synthetic oil. I’ve tuned plenty of high mileage examples with great results, it’s really down to how good an example the car is, mileage is sort of irrelevant.

Yes they’re great cars, and given decent maintenance will last you several hundred thousand miles of reliable motoring. Also have great tuning potential.

Well if after replacing the clutch the pipe still isn’t getting cold I suspect you have the same faulty plastic one way valve. If you’re not evacuating the gas to do the clutch then see how you get on. But if the gas is coming out anyway, then I would locate remove that valve before refilling...

Check your heater control valve in the engine bay to ensure it’s not stuck. Also check the climate control blend flap actuators, again if they’re broken then it won’t be switching hot and cold. We had the same issue recently on my dads IDTEC CRV and after changing compressor twice, condenser...