Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

2004 i-CTDI low MPG

babak said:
I think its ridiculous to expect 60 mpg from this car.

The absolute highest I've seen on the trip computer is around 55 mpg and that is factoring in the fact that mine is off about 10 mpg.

I average about 30-35 mpg around town and 40-45 around the highway depending on how I drive.

This is confirmed by data from spritmonitor.de and it seems like its what other i-ctdi owners are also getting.

Not sure why anyone would expect 60 mpg over any kind of normal journey.
Click to expand...
+1
I just worked mine out after filling up earlier today and got 39.5mpg. But I have had 46mpg when I used to do a lot of motorways.
 
Using Natasha's figures of 380 miles and a re-fill of 62.5 litres, then another 384 miles and a re-fill of 58 litres.

I posted way back in the thread (and was criticised) that she was actually getting ....

Average of them is (380 + 384) ÷ (62.5 + 58) = 764 ÷ 120.5 odometer miles per litre
= (764 x .95) ÷ (120.5 ÷ 4.54)
= 727 ÷ 26.54
= 27.4 actual miles per gallon !!!!

Pretty bad for a diesel that's doing some town and long distance, and not being thrashed.
 
I'm feeling that way too in this one. I only got physics at GCSE ...but....fuel is energy. Energy converts to kinetic or heat ( in this instance ), or it stays as fuel if not efficiently converted.

So if fuel goes into the engine and doesn't get converted into the designed quantity of kinetic energy , then the loss in energy can only be these factors :-

i) fault on the conversion/combustion process : resulting in SMOKE of unburnt fuel
ii) energy being consumed due to friction ( binding brakes or something else driven off the engine belts or flywheel ) : resulting in heat
iii) energy being consumed due to mechanical unbalance : resulting in vibration/noise/heat.

Nothing I've read in this entire post seems to add up.....
 
Yes, but if the 'doubters' are wrong then it's not particularly kind to the OP, is it... maybe that's why they've not posted for a while?

How can we be sure any thread is genuine? Or - slightly philosophically - any of us?
 
Sorry, I was absent last couple of days. Just mad busy at work.

To prove to everybody that car and problem is genuine I can post photos. Just one question, how will I do it? It seems that I can only add link...

Update

P1237 fault was resolved by replacing EVR Sensor. It means we broke that and it's not related to fuel consumption.

As we bought a crashed 05 Accord (you can see on the engine picture) we decided not to bother changing all small parts but to change the whole engine with turbo, in/out manifault, catalisator and many many more, just to do it in one go and just hope that it will help.

I'm sorry if it's not going to help others but at this stage I just want to get it sorted and I do not care what way it will be done. At least I will save some money on flywheel. =)
 
I use an account at photobucket.com to upload and then link photos, etc. it's easy to open an account and to use.

You're obviously going to repair your car now, but I realise that we (especially Baxy & Baggie) aren't actually going to learn anything!
 
Right guys, I have some good news for you but bad for me.

Even after replacing the engine with all belongings the consumption is the same.

That is all what us left from old car:
1. Intercooler - we will replace that tomorrow
2. Flap on inlet manifold as we do not have one spare, so we had to use our old one.
3. ECU - Now we came to conclusion that this is what is actually makes the problem.

But now can somebody in real detail describe how do you replace one? We can use one from the crashed car but I would really prefer the advice from somebody who has done it before.

Pictures as promised

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j351/Elfijka_odd/IMAG0128.jpg
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j351/Elfijka_odd/IMAG0130.jpg

I hope it will be no doubt about my and cars existence.
 
Sorry, I don't know the full procedure but I'd only replace it if the vehicle is like for like, as in, replace and exec model ecu with an exec model ecu if ya get me.
 
After reading this whole thing again I ask myself a question. Why the hell you invest time and money to fix that rubbish. I mean damn, sell it and forget about it. I also cant understand how you get such bad fuel economy without car smoking a lot. Mine smokes on hard acceleration or if booted after driving slowly and I get low MPG. Been to few specialists, none can find a fault...
Btw. If you find out what is causing the fault you will be my hero. Watching this thread with great interest, Dan
 
Before you do the replacement, check that the part numbers on the ECU's are the same.

You can also check if the ECU's are like-for-like by going onto the Lings Honda website. Here is the link

As you are in Dublin, I would think it best to enter the VIN. Do this for each car.

For each car, you should get to a page like this. Choose the "CONTROL UNIT (CABIN)" section.

You should get to a page like this. The ECU is item 3.

To get the Honda part number, you have to delete "_pfk" from the URL in the address bar and then hit enter. When you have done that, the page looks the same, but the Honda part numbers are now listed instead as here. The ECU is still item 3, but now you have the Honda part numbers.

Note that a new replacement Honda part number on Lings might be different from the part number on the "old" ECU in the car. This does not matter, just make sure that the part numbers are like-for-like in the cars, and/or like-for-like by VIN on Lings.

I have never replaced an ECU, so I don't know exactly what you need to do, but if you find a difference between the Honda part numbers on the ECU's in the cars, and also a difference between the Honda part numbers for the VINs on the Lings Honda website, then you might be in difficulty.

IMO and with hindsight, it might have been wiser to check the ECU's first, and if they were the same, swap them first rather than swapping the engines.
 
Thanks fredofrog I will work on that this afternoon.

In the meantime is there is anybody professional in remaps on this forum? Can I not just remap the ECU again say with Elite remap (I was reading lots of positive feedback on your forum) instead of replacing the ECU. Or is there is a chance to go back to factory map? Sorry but we know nothing about ECUs and maps - we can replace accord engine in 6 hours but ECU makes us nervous.

We have never replaced ECU on Accord or any similar car and are afraid to damage something completely and be left with no car at all.

May be I should create another post in modifications section and look for help there?

Oh yes sorry, replaced an intercooler - did not solve a problem. So all we are left with in the flap on the inlet manifold but we don't think it's causing a problem. By our opinion it's a bad ECU remap.
 
freddofrog said:
Before you do the replacement, check that the part numbers on the ECU's are the same.

You can also check if the ECU's are like-for-like by going onto the Lings Honda website. Here is the link

As you are in Dublin, I would think it best to enter the VIN. Do this for each car.

For each car, you should get to a page like this. Choose the "CONTROL UNIT (CABIN)" section.

You should get to a page like this. The ECU is item 3.

To get the Honda part number, you have to delete "_pfk" from the URL in the address bar and then hit enter. When you have done that, the page looks the same, but the Honda part numbers are now listed instead as here. The ECU is still item 3, but now you have the Honda part numbers.

Note that a new replacement Honda part number on Lings might be different from the part number on the "old" ECU in the car. This does not matter, just make sure that the part numbers are like-for-like in the cars, and/or like-for-like by VIN on Lings.

I have never replaced an ECU, so I don't know exactly what you need to do, but if you find a difference between the Honda part numbers on the ECU's in the cars, and also a difference between the Honda part numbers for the VINs on the Lings Honda website, then you might be in difficulty.

IMO and with hindsight, it might have been wiser to check the ECU's first, and if they were the same, swap them first rather than swapping the engines.
Click to expand...

On my car I have selection of 5 different ECUs:
37820RBDE13
37820RBDE14
37820RBDE15
37820RBDE16
37820RBDE51

How do I know which one in installed in my car?

On the crashed car it's only one
37820RBDE51
what is the same with the last one on my car.

So the question is - If say I have 37820RBDE13 and will replace it with 37820RBDE51 would it work?
 
I'm sorry, I know I'm a newbie.. But I've really started to lose interest in this topic. Now I do believe that my mpg is low (or just wishful thinking was closer to manufacturer advisory), and I guess about 16p a mile is acceptable after all for me.. But the talk of swaPping engines, ecus etc just to get back ya mpg? Is this economically viable for a 7th Gen Accord? Geez! Just scrap it and buy a 2nd hand VW, I know. I would. Throwing good money after bad.
 
Well if we would not have a garage - free labour and would not bought this car and crashed car cheep I definitely would not repair that. But even at this stage we are not loosing money, so we still be trying to repair that.

Also just to note we have spare engine and all other parts for accord if anybody interested. At least we all know that all parts were good and they all can be sold now.
 
Just after dismantling the crashed car ECU:
Part no 37820RBDE51

On ours it's 37820RBDE16

So can somebody explain please, what does that mean and what can be done. THANKS
 
I put the first ecu part number into lings and it bring ups that it is superseded to 37820-RBD-E53 and I also put the 2nd part number into Lings which is also superseded to 37820-RBD-E53, so I'd say you're free to swap it over B)

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_part_number_search_A10.php?partdes=37820-rbd-e51

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_part_number_search_A10.php?partdes=37820RBDE16
 
Do you really think that you can simply swap them over?

Should you not code that with immobilizer?

Would we be able to go back in case that is not going to work?
 
Natasha said:
Do you really think that you can simply swap them over?

Should you not code that with immobilizer?

Would we be able to go back in case that is not going to work?
Click to expand...
Interesting questions, I'm sure that there are people on this forum who can answer them, not me I'm afraid.

I would think that the engine ECU and the immobiliser are effectively "paired" in each car, so one way that might work is to swap both the engine ECU, the immobiliser , and the key !!

I will start a new thread on this forum, because it's a question that a few other people (including myself) might want the answer to in future, for various differing reasons.
 
Natasha said:
Pictures as promised
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j351/Elfijka_odd/IMAG0128.jpg
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j351/Elfijka_odd/IMAG0130.jpg
I hope it will be no doubt about my and cars existence.
Click to expand...
Good. By my reckoning, you're owed a few apologies!!!

I've never changed an ECU, but as you have the whole of the donor car at your disposal then you should be OK? I guess you'll need to reprograme the immobiliser part of the key?

Contact Fahad to discuss remapping issues, he is the Elite/Premier guy... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/user/4-f6had/

I'm impressed with your tenacity. As mentioned, many of us would have given up long ago.
 
It's first time for the last 6 years I actually bought car for myself, not for resale, repair or anything else. I wanted only Accord and I really like everything about this car - color, alloys, tinted windows, parrot, heated seats. So there is no way I'll swop that for any other car. Don't even mention VW Passat to me it was my last car and there is no way you can compare them in any way. I'm big Accord fan! And I really hope that together we will get it sorted eventually. At this stage we invested too much time to give up so easily.

I've sent PM to F6HAD and hope he will reply anytime soon.
 
^ don't worry about some off-field comments, IMO you've done a sterling job. If one has access to the space and the tools and hoist etc, and if engine swap is an everyday event, it's the way to go (though it was pointing at an ECU issue).

I've asked the "transplant" question in a new thread here
 
F6HAD responded and he will be able to check if ECU was remapped, but I have to get special cable, so I think we all are on hold till middle next week, till I get cable and speak to F6HAD.
 
You can try the ECU from the "donor" car.

All you need to do is swap the chip from the "donor" key into the existing recipient key.

See here
 
We have decided to wait for the cable as that was ordered last night. We really want to find out if ECU was really remapped, so there is no point of changing those part for 3 times. Especially I have only 1 key, so we are on hold till cable will arrive. In the meantime we are weld8ng the exhaust manifold as the one on the new engine has crack on that and it smells with fumes inside and unfortunately my husband already sold mine =(
 
Some update after engine replacement.

Car definitely has more power and accelerates from 0 to 60 mil/hr much faster. But after driving at about 90 mil/hr (motorway) for 15 min and then drive into the city - 40 mil/hr starts to smell of diesel inside the car. So obviously the excessive diesel goes through the exhaust. That would also explain the lose of power as excessive diesel blocked catalisator what lead to lose of power.

Also I think consumption became even worth now and we are on about 25 MPG now. I did not measure exactly but it definitely become worst.

OH YES! For the time I was typing this update, postmen brought the cable, so we are 1 step closer to solution!
 
Sorry Natasha I'll admit to having doubts about the authenticity of the post, so apologies due.

Overcooked catalizer isn't something I've considered , but hey lets see. Maybe it could be bypassed, but not sure if ECU sensors would throw a fit.

ECU could have been messed up, but I still find it odd theres no ***ociated smoke.

If it turns out the cat has been choking the system and causing all this trouble, I'd certainly consider getting my own checked out.

Good luck, you've certainly persevered more than most would.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top