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Jon_G said:
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor is a common failure. Sometimes they respond to cleaning, sometimes not! Until you can fix/replace it I suggest using the cruise control whenever possible to bypass the APP sensor.
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Where is it ?
 
Thanks. I did have one momentary loss of power, during hard acceleration a couple of weeks ago, nothing since but then I didn't want to push a potential catastrophic demise of the car by recreating the conditions. Is this characteristic of an issue with the sensor ?
 
Jon_G said:
Not really.

I've forgotten what engine you have? If it's a K20 then I don't think you have an APP sensor.
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he has same car as the OP and you ... remember the ATE ABS/VSA he got and fitted ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
Did you delete the code when stuck, or just diagnose ?
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No I did not delete, isuue has not reemerged but now don't want to drive on motorway. Its can be dangerous depending when power loss occurs. How do you use cruise to bypass the issue please ?
 
Im in east london if any one needs error codes read or just a health check please pm me
 
No problem barnet is not far from me

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
Car has now cut out 3 times, and yesterday at 30mph same code,P1248 and P2148 pedal/throttle position sensor, switch "D", E voltage correlation. Where is the sensor located and how can I access it?
 
OK, the sensor is held on with rivets which means I can't really remove or replace it. I removed 2x 10mm,bolts from the top cover and 2 x 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable part down, the sensor is attached to the rear, I u plugged the cable and it has 6 prongs but it's riveted on, I would have to saw it off but then I'd be stumped
 
This sensor cannot be cleaned, it's just the connecting plug which can be cleaned and mine looked pretty fine, the prongs are long enough to make a good connection. I doubt this will make much difference tbh, I suspect the sensor will need to be replaced. Could anything else be forcing the sensor to throw a faulty code, such as a sticking butterfly valve?
 
The sensor is throwing a fault code because it's a pair of potentiometers and the ECU is seeing a difference in the two outputs. There is no throttle butterfly on a diesel.

I cannot understand why someone has riveted your APP sensor into place. If you're sure about this, then you'll have to drill them out!
 
I don't believe anyone has riveted the sensor on, I think this is how they come as standard because I've searched for them on Ebay and they are the same for my car.
 
f2raf said:
I don't believe anyone has riveted the sensor on, I think this is how they come as standard because I've searched for them on Ebay and they are the same for my car.
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I'm guessing that you mean the sensor housing is riveted together? The sensor itself certainly isn't riveted to the car.
 
I can only find for civic diesel, looks like Torx

s-l1600.jpg



s-l1600.jpg



Just to be sure we're all talking APP, the APP on the Accord is item 2
B__2316.jpg
 
To clarify the sensor in the picture and diagram above is correct. It is not riveted to the car but riveted to the silver block part you see in the picture above, The sensor cannot be removed, in the picture above you can see its clamped on to the silver block with two silver rivets. The other side is where the throttle cable feeds into a roll/rail. I don't believe it's possible to remove and clean this sensor, rather the whole part needs replacing
 
Can't be a rivet because it would be impossible to get behind to the other end (rivet needs full access to both ends), and no engineer on earth would design a rivet for such an application. Looks like a set-screw, head might be XZN, and/or there might be a plastic insert in it.

If you search on Google using "honda 37971-RBB-003" (without quotes) you will find forums where some people have taken them apart

214205103.jpg



but you can try to liberally douse it with switch cleaner without taking it apart, youtube will show how to do it

otherwise, just get a replacement, 2nd hand, or new
 
Sorry I just described it as it looked like a rivet. The picture you post above shows the sensor has been exposed with the top part being cut open and prised out. I have seen one on eBay with this section having some kind of glue on it. Why would someone do that? To clean it internally? Are you suggesting douse the entire switch including the 6 prongs in switch cleaner and the cleaner will find its way inside? I'm just a little confused. I'll take a look on Google though, thank you
 
The issue is due to the tracks becoming either "worn" or "glazed", it will happen to all electrical contacts over time, potentiometer tracks are notorious for this, but at least they use 2 tracks so that the ECU can see when one track is starting to give "jumpy" readings

You can either try to open it up and use switch cleaner directly on the tracks , or you can just liberally douse the unit, there's nothing else inside other than the tracks and "wipers".

Here is TPS cleaning on youtube (TPS is same as APP, except that TPS measures throttle position on a petrol engine that is not DBW)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnK00rtWf68
 
This sensor cannot be cleaned, it sealed all over, so I doubt dousing it will help. I wish some people wouldn't give advice if they have no first hand experience of this sensor it at all.
I attempted to remove the sensor again today, this time by sawing the plain head screws across the top with a hacksaw and then using a screwdriver to open them, this worked but took quick some effort.
Only to find that underneath there was no access to the internal components of the sensor at all, there is just a plastic spring loaded mechanism, which i tried to remove carefully and snapped half a notch which secured the top arm of the spring, luckily it still holds the spring in place. The only way to get access to the electric component inside it is to physically cut the plastic sensor from the top. The other damage ive probably done is when i unscrewed it i didn't note the exact position of the bolts, so when using hex bolts to screw it back down, the spring loaded swivel Arm at the top which slots into the throttle mechanism, creates some tension when trying to align the screws back, as it moves. There is a 10mm difference between the centre and the edge where I think it may actually originally sit according to the marks on the gasket, which I ignored and centred it for some reason, creating some tension on teh spring loaded section. Im not sure what affect if any this will have now. Taken it for a 4 mile spin up & down the Mway and it was fine, but then it generally is fine until im on a long run it can cut out, if it does cut out again I will just buy a replacement part and I think that is the advice I would give to anyone else, than even attempting to clean this part.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0riC4r9eucjRjlVbmxHcEdQcUU

and not to mention with all the sawing the frame at the back scratched the life out of the top of my air filter box
 
I'm confused. The sensor ***embly is held onto the car with 2 bolts (plus the throttle cable). Why didn't you simply remove it before attempting to dismantle it? Or drill a hole in it to spray in some switch cleaner?
 
Looking at those pics I am gobsmacked at the how cack-handed some people can be. The fact that the "rivets" have threads proves that they are set-screws.
And having gone that far it's worth attempting to use switch cleaner, this is what I use on things like this --> https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/servisol-super-10-switch-contact-cleaner-200ml-jp17t

and the tube that comes with it gets the spray into very small places

$(KGrHqIOKk!E3vDn7pk2BOCCrvtMNw~~0_35.JPG
 
f2raf said:
I attempted to remove the sensor again today, this time by sawing the plain head screws across the top with a hacksaw and then using a screwdriver to open them, this worked but took quick some effort.

Only to find that underneath there was no access to the internal components of the sensor at all, there is just a plastic spring loaded mechanism, which i tried to remove carefully and snapped half a notch which secured the top arm of the spring, luckily it still holds the spring in place.

The other damage ive probably done is when i unscrewed it i didn't note the exact position of the bolts, so when using hex bolts to screw it back down, the spring loaded swivel Arm at the top which slots into the throttle mechanism, creates some tension when trying to align the screws back, as it moves.

There is a 10mm difference between the centre and the edge where I think it may actually originally sit according to the marks on the gasket, which I ignored and centred it for some reason, creating some tension on teh spring loaded section. Im not sure what affect if any this will have now.

and not to mention with all the sawing the frame at the back scratched the life out of the top of my air filter box
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Ever thought of becoming a neurosurgeon ?
 
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