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Broke down today

honda_saj said:
If the hazards do not come on then it looks like a battery or connection issue as freddo saod. Even if the barrel switch is not working the hazard and horn should work ?

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Yeah that's what I would have thought too. I'm gonna get a lift to a few sparks today and hopefully they can come look at it.
 
Yes if you was near london I would of popped over. I would say a sparky should be able to help I do recall you had a grounding problem in the past.
Make sure there is good continuity on the earth as its possible the nut may have come loose ?


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honda_saj said:
Yes if you was near london I would of popped over. I would say a sparky should be able to help I do recall you had a grounding problem in the past.
Make sure there is good continuity on the earth as its possible the nut may have come loose ?


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Yeah that was my original thought. It still seems to be on tight and I can't move/shake it by hand.
 
Have you checked continuity across the ground lead I see you have had issues with electrics in past get someone confident with vehicle electrics if possible, I am in london otherwise would have popped down.

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To lose everything it'd need to be the main fuse, but to get a short big enough to kill the main fuse is very difficult unless you short between the main feed and ground.

The loom hasn't rubbed through, or the battery moved or something as it's stalled and lurched?
 
Blong91 said:
@freddofrog, this is the 2.4. Hazards won't come on at all :(

@goodluckmonkey, is that the fuse which is in its own tiny fusebox to the left of the main under bonnet one? I checked every one I could find.
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ahh good, it's same as mine then (you have 2.0 under your avatar, not that it matters much)

but the main fuse is not where you describe, the main fuse is in the picture below (click picture to enlarge it). The main fuse is the long black thing above the "Relay for aircon fan" with "100" and "70" written upside-down on the fuse in white

Picture2.jpg


To remove the main fuse you have to unscrew the 2 "bronze" round-head screws and un-clip the fuse at the sides while pulling it up.

I've just been out to my car and removed that main fuse. With it removed there is no power anywhere in the car, but, if you press the hazard-warning button on the dash, you can hear a fast clicking noise from the under-dash fuse-box. This clicking is coming from the MICU which is behind the uder-dash fuse-box. The circuit diagram shows that the hazard-warning relays are grounded via the MICU, so when that main 100 Amp fuse is removed, the MICU doesn't work, so the hazard-warnings don't actually work, although the un-powered MICU is attempting to get relay current to ground. The more I look at Honda electrics, the less impressed I am.

So, check that main fuse, and also listen for a fast clicking when you press the hazard-warning button. Also check the battery voltage by measuring from chassis to battery +ve, do not check across the battery terminals.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I just removed the main fuse and checked it and it's okay. Also just replaced the ignition switch with a used one and no better.
 
what about the hazard-warning button, can you hear a fast clicking noise when you press it ?

have you also checked battery voltage by measuring from chassis to the battery +ve terminal ?

also measure voltage from chassis to left-hand end of main fuse

then measure voltage from chassis to right-hand end of main fuse
 
Can't hear anything with hazards pressed.

Battery now isn't getting a voltage reading although was yesterday!

Same in main fuse
 
if you get battery volts across the battery terminals but not by measuring from chassis to main fuse, then the problem is in the battery connections

if you don't get battery volts across the battery terminals then there's a fault inside the battery (dodgy connection between cells)
 
When I seen that the battery was getting no reading I went to charge it there with jump cables. Lights came on!!

Stupid me didn't wait long enough and tried the ignition too early so everything is drained. Waiting on a bigger engined car coming to give a jump.
 
Oh my god are you kidding me lol
 
Yeah, ignition switch must have helped as it had been jumped by four different people and cars previously.

I'm getting lights on the dash, but engine isn't starting. Multimeter reading 2ish volts when red cable is on + terminal and black cable on chassis
 
Had a 1.6 focus jumping it for at least a half hour there. It seems to be getting more power but won't start. Focus is away home now. Any ideas? It's just clicking and dash is flashing when trying to start

Edit: went out there now and all lights are off again
 
it's a dead battery

jump leads are almost always a waste of time

take the battery out and leave it on a charger overnight, it might recover

I reckon you might also have a fault in the charging system in the car
 
Ahh God sake this is never ending. Will get it to a garage with a trickle charger and try on Sunday.
 
Sounds like dodgy connection keep up updated with outcome

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Trickle charger on overnight and put battery in this morning. No lights at all anywhere.
 
Just try a different battery.
 
Does this cable look mangled? Thinking this might be the cause.

http://imgur.com/behb02z

The second I hook jumpleads up with another car the lights come on, but car won't start. Starting to think it is an earthing problem alright. Might try replacing this lead.
 
Looks like it's making a good connection, but try adding an additional earth strap from another part of the body.
 
Blong91 said:
Does this cable look mangled? Thinking this might be the cause.

http://imgur.com/behb02z

The second I hook jumpleads up with another car the lights come on, but car won't start. Starting to think it is an earthing problem alright. Might try replacing this lead.
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cable doesn't look too bad, as Fahad says, connect a jump lead from battery -ve to chassis as well

are you connecting red jump lead to battery +ve terminal and black jump lead to battery -ve terminal ?
if yes then the problem ain't with the earth lead, the battery is totally duff

take the battery out of the other car and stick that in instead
......if it won't fit, keep your duff battery totally disconnected and connect the other battery using red jump lead from (other)battery +ve terminal to +ve terminal in car, and black jump lead from (other)battery -ve terminal to chassis. If the car still won't start, you have 2 problems .....a shyte battery in the car and shyte jump leads

when the car is running, check the charging volts, the charging system is also probably duff


edit: just another thought, are those clamps on the battery terminals tight ? i.e. do they move on the terminals ?
 
Thanks for suggestions. Will try to start it usign the cables only without my battery tomorrow.
 
Blong91 said:
Thanks for suggestions. Will try to start it usign the cables only without my battery tomorrow.
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a duff battery places a load on the "donor" supply, jump leads are not good at best of times, the crocodile clips form a small resistance, and large current through small resistance = large voltage drop across the croc-clips (V = I x R)

also, if the car starts, do not disconnect the jump leads if the car's battery is disconnected, get the engine warmed up, stop the engine, disconnect the leads, connect the "duff" battery, reconnect jump leads, and try again ....a warmed engine draws less current on starting so the croc-clips drop less volts when the engine is warm

edit: and check the tightness of the clamps
 
If it does start doing that, it's just new battery time? The battery is a few months old, and Halfords gave it the all clear yesterday
 
Blong91 said:
If it does start doing that, it's just new battery time? The battery is a few months old, and Halfords gave it the all clear yesterday
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Halfords would (they always do)

1. check the tightness of the clamps
2. if the clamps are very tight then IMO the charging system may be faulty and the battery has been affected (over-charging or under-charging)
3. alternatively you have the dreaded "phantom battery drain" issue, which is normally ***ociated with HFT (hands-free telephone) in the 7th gen facelift, but even though your car is pre-facelift, there is also another battery drain without HFT (which no-one has tracked down)

You need to get the car going without the battery in circuit, then with it in circuit, then check the volts across the battery with the engine running
 
Sorry forgot to say they didn't check tightness sor anything, I just brought the battery down.
 
Blong91 said:
Sorry forgot to say they didn't check tightness sor anything, I just brought the battery down.
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I guessed that, but the point is that the thing that they use is usually as much use as a chocolate teapot

It's up to you to make sure the clamps don't move when you've tightened the bolts, they should not move at all in any direction, same applies to the clamp on the chassis

if they move then that has been the problem all along, a clamp that moves has a variable resistance, and using V = I x R ....etc
 
the more I think about this, the more convinced I am that it's one of these

  • loose (movable) clamp(s) ....check battery +ve clamp, battery -ve clamp, chassis -ve connection
  • dodgy battery
  • phantom battery drain
  • dodgy charging system
 
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