I was doing about 60 in 3rd, floored it, and insteak of accelerating smoothly, it jerked, accelerated and then the engine died. The oil lamp, battery light and the other icon that sits in that cluster all lit up and I lost power steer too. Tried turning the engine on, but it won't start altough the battery sonds like it has plenty of juice. Was serviced and MOTd 3 weeks ago too. Any opinions before the breakdown people arrive ?
broken down at side of road
- Thread starter Jamie91
- Start date
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Hopefully the breakdown guy has arrived by now. And hopefully it doesn't turn out to be a broken timing chain!
Good luck and please keep us updated.
Good luck and please keep us updated.
Breakdown lorry arrived after an hour. Managed to start the Accord by using the accelerator at the same time as the ignition. Just the engine malfunction indicator that came on this time. Drove the Accord onto the lorry easily enough.
Going to take my brothers car to work tomorrow and book the Accord into the Honda dealer for Monday. Hopefully nothing expensive
Going to take my brothers car to work tomorrow and book the Accord into the Honda dealer for Monday. Hopefully nothing expensive
Jon_G
No Longer Active
At least it isn't terminal then!
Reading the fault codes should give some good clues.
Reading the fault codes should give some good clues.
Yeah trueJon_G said:
Reading a fault code is what the Honda dealer will do when they plug the laptop in right ?
Also my owners manual says to "restart and turn off the engine at least 3 times for 30 seconds and if the light stays on then see the dealer" So will do that tomorrow
SayamaAccord
And still...
Let's hope it's something cheap and easy like a blocked fuel filter.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
When the ECU detects a problem (which you definitely had) it registers a fault code, stores it, and turns on the engine management system warning light. You can try to reset the warning light a couple of ways (disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes is often done) but the fault code will still be stored... this should give invaluable insight into your problem if you can get it read by someone with an OBD2 reader. Many people, not just garages, have these... they are quite cheap. You really need to find out what the problem was, before it happens again!
Thanks for the helpful responses guys.Jon_G said:
2 days ago I was doing 80 in 5th, floored it and it jerked initially, but then pulled smoothly to a higher speed so I thought nothing of it. Driven through a couple of flooded roads likely, but doubt its water damage otherwise it would be more severe. Will see what Honda say on Monday.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
I understand that you need to have this problem looked at ASAP but, for the future, why not buy your own code reader? They are readily available on eBay for around £20 or so... the ELM327 Bluetooth model is very popular if you have an Android smartphone and get the Torque app (there's a wi-fi version if you have an Apple), or there are self-contained (dedicated) OBD2 readers like I've got.
You don't need to go to a Honda dealer to have the stored codes read, pretty much any garage can read engine codes (if you lived nearer I'd offer to do it for you). I'd expect Honda to charge a little more for doing this! A pity there isn't a TA member in your area who could also do this for you... maybe you could start a new thread to ask? Then you might be able to get codes read this weekend.
As a word of warning, your car ECU stores codes indefinitely until they get cleared off. After having a problem it is best to get all stored codes deleted, then see which ones come back and are therefore related to the current problem (some of the stored codes may have been there prior to your recent breakdown and may cause confusion),
You don't need to go to a Honda dealer to have the stored codes read, pretty much any garage can read engine codes (if you lived nearer I'd offer to do it for you). I'd expect Honda to charge a little more for doing this! A pity there isn't a TA member in your area who could also do this for you... maybe you could start a new thread to ask? Then you might be able to get codes read this weekend.
As a word of warning, your car ECU stores codes indefinitely until they get cleared off. After having a problem it is best to get all stored codes deleted, then see which ones come back and are therefore related to the current problem (some of the stored codes may have been there prior to your recent breakdown and may cause confusion),
Thanks for the advice man. But just having a code reader wouldn't sort my problem surely ? Whereas Honda can both identify and fix the problemJon_G said:
Just a thought Fahad, but is there a risk that when the Honda dealership fix my problem that they reset the remap too ?F6HAD said:
edgeoftime
Members
Make sure the fuel filter fitted is a BOSCH one!! if it is then go from there if not throw it away and get the right one.
Knowledge is power. Honda will charge you £60 to plug in the code reader. You can do it yourself, save £60 then know exactly what the issue is. It could even be something you could fix yourself for free, or take to an indy to get it done for less than Honda would charge.
I bought a bluetooth ODB socket thing and got a free app on my smart phone to read codes. I've not had to use it yet, but it cost almost nothing and will mean I can go to a garage, Honda or Indy knowing exactly what's wrong and what they need to fix.
Basically, this is how I see many people work on this forum:
1) use their own code reader to establish fault
2) use Holdcroft Honda for discounted OEM parts or canvas opinion from forum members on good value alternatives
3) use trustworthy indy to fit or DIY
4) save lots of money to spend on modifications
I bought a bluetooth ODB socket thing and got a free app on my smart phone to read codes. I've not had to use it yet, but it cost almost nothing and will mean I can go to a garage, Honda or Indy knowing exactly what's wrong and what they need to fix.
Basically, this is how I see many people work on this forum:
1) use their own code reader to establish fault
2) use Holdcroft Honda for discounted OEM parts or canvas opinion from forum members on good value alternatives
3) use trustworthy indy to fit or DIY
4) save lots of money to spend on modifications
Jon_G
No Longer Active
I guess having the benefits of a code reader are greater if you might actually want to fix problems yourself. For example, as mentioned already, it is quite possible that your breakdown was the result of an overly-restricted fuel filter, and so reading the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P1065 and/or P0087 would indicate this to be the case. You could then follow the TA guide to replacing it and save a decent amount (and maybe feel like a hero?). Have some plasters handy though.
I had a problem where the engine shut down and then wouldn't restart unless the DTC was cleared off. Without the code reader to hand I would have had to call for breakdown recovery ***istance.
I had a problem where the engine shut down and then wouldn't restart unless the DTC was cleared off. Without the code reader to hand I would have had to call for breakdown recovery ***istance.
I did buy the parts for the fuel filter job actually and attempted to fit it myself, but didn't get very far and gave upJon_G said:
Guess car DIY isn't for meI will buy a code reader after this weekend then (my phone is a BB not an iphone or android).
Want to get this fixed ASAP really.
Would the price difference between Honda and an independant really be that great ? Only I got charged way more for my service at an independant than Honda would have charged. And surely Honda are more likely to know how to fix it ?
Had the fuel filter changed in my service 3 weeks ago (no idea if he used a Bosch one or not). I did request 0w30 oil too, hopefully he wasn't unscroupulous and used something cheaper.
Stevearcade said:Knowledge is power. Honda will charge you £60 to plug in the code reader. You can do it yourself, save £60 then know exactly what the issue is. It could even be something you could fix yourself for free, or take to an indy to get it done for less than Honda would charge.
I bought a bluetooth ODB socket thing and got a free app on my smart phone to read codes. I've not had to use it yet, but it cost almost nothing and will mean I can go to a garage, Honda or Indy knowing exactly what's wrong and what they need to fix.
Basically, this is how I see many people work on this forum:
1) use their own code reader to establish fault
2) use Holdcroft Honda for discounted OEM parts or canvas opinion from forum members on good value alternatives
3) use trustworthy indy to fit or DIY
4) save lots of money to spend on modifications
edgeoftime
Members
Stick your head under the bonnet and look at the fuel filter!! that surely is not beyond you?? what makes me think it's the filter is that the car started and drove up the lorry ramp, this will happen after a short while as the gubbins resets itself, and the fact that you tried tpo restart a few times again this restarts the system. RTFM!!
I would start with changing the fuel filter with a genuine oem part, very important its genuine.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
As said, very important the FF is genuine... Bosch, part number ending in 442. You should be able to see it, depending how it was orientated during fitting.
Obviously a Honda garage should be able to diagnose the fault with a high confidence. the problem I have with Honda is that some fault items (e.g. fuel pump, fuel rail) will be replaced whole, as Honda do not list sub-components of these parts as separate items, so you could end up with a bill for more than the car is worth (whole fuel pump is around £2500 and rail is around £1500 with VAT and of course you fill have to pay for the fitting as well). However Bosch, who manufacture these parts, will sell the sub components separately through the Bosch Service Centre/Agent networks. I bought a pressure control solenoid for my fuel pump for £93 this way... Honda would have sold me a whole pump! An indy garage would know this and therefore be a lot cheaper. In fact, the whole engine management system/fuel injection system is made by Bosch, so any Bosch accredited garage would be able to ***ess the fault as well as a Honda dealer and then repair it for less.
Obviously a Honda garage should be able to diagnose the fault with a high confidence. the problem I have with Honda is that some fault items (e.g. fuel pump, fuel rail) will be replaced whole, as Honda do not list sub-components of these parts as separate items, so you could end up with a bill for more than the car is worth (whole fuel pump is around £2500 and rail is around £1500 with VAT and of course you fill have to pay for the fitting as well). However Bosch, who manufacture these parts, will sell the sub components separately through the Bosch Service Centre/Agent networks. I bought a pressure control solenoid for my fuel pump for £93 this way... Honda would have sold me a whole pump! An indy garage would know this and therefore be a lot cheaper. In fact, the whole engine management system/fuel injection system is made by Bosch, so any Bosch accredited garage would be able to ***ess the fault as well as a Honda dealer and then repair it for less.
Thanks. Will book it into my local indy (different guy to the one who charged me £390 to service it) tomorrow. Will tell them my concerns about the fuel filter not being genuine and request the Bosch part if it needs to be changed. (Hopefully they have this in stock and don't need to order it)
Jon_G said:
edgeoftime
Members
go here and get a great deal, enter your reg and then ask for this 0 450 906 442 -3LU
http://car-parts.mister-auto.co.uk/en/fuel-filter_lg9/
OR JUST CLICK FUEL FILTER.
http://car-parts.mister-auto.co.uk/en/fuel-filter_lg9/
OR JUST CLICK FUEL FILTER.
Yeah I was quite shocked when he gave me the bill. Presumably the fuel filter change took him a long time. Will certainly not be using that guy again.F6HAD said:
Update:
Took the Accord to a Citroen Specialist that my dad has used for the past 20 years, but they do other cars as well http://www.ray-williams.co.uk/
The car started and drove fine (no warning lights) on the 2 mile journey there. Then the guys plugged the diagnostic tool in and reset it. I asked if the guy that serviced it (different garage) had used a Non-Bosch fuel filter, but they just said it didn't really matter as fuel filters are all quite similar. Didn't want to argue with trained mechanics on that one.
Went for a spin, flooring it at 60 in 3rd but the car worked just fine. They didn't charge me which was nice of them, and said drop by if it happens again.
Trying to think what caused it really. About 1 week before the car broke down I went through deep puddles/ flood water on 3 occasions, which might have got sucked into the ECU or something? Although the car seemed fine until 1 week after which is odd.
And I did give it a bit of a thrashing in the 2 nights before the engine cut out, but nothing over the redline or anything daft.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
I'm not a trained mechanic (merely an engineer) but you will see many threads here (and on other Honda sites, such as Civinfo) that will confirm the importance of having the OEM fuel filter fitted to the i-CTDi. If I was able to insert links I would bring one to your attention where I helped another member whose car was cutting out and we traced it to the non-OEM filter... the problem went away immediately we replaced the filter with the correct Bosch part. Pictures in that thread show a significant height difference between these 2 filters. Unlike some others, I'm not at all precious about having to use OEM service parts, but I am about the fuel filter. Cheap aftermarket filters can definitely be more restrictive. Having said that, your breakdown was a more severe problem than would normally be caused by a dodgy fuel filter.
It would have been very useful to have seen what the stored codes actually were... but at least now if they come back you'll know they will relate to the current problem.
It is hard to dismiss the connection between driving through deep water and your breakdown, but you'd expect the engine to either have been seriously damaged (hydrolocked) or to shrug it off after a very brief period of rough running. Water won't usually stop a diesel engine without wrecking it. I doubt the ECU was affected by water, as it is in a well-sealed box.
It would have been very useful to have seen what the stored codes actually were... but at least now if they come back you'll know they will relate to the current problem.
It is hard to dismiss the connection between driving through deep water and your breakdown, but you'd expect the engine to either have been seriously damaged (hydrolocked) or to shrug it off after a very brief period of rough running. Water won't usually stop a diesel engine without wrecking it. I doubt the ECU was affected by water, as it is in a well-sealed box.
SayamaAccord
And still...
Did he not tell you what the fault codes were?
In my time on this forum, I can say without any doubt the i-CDTI absolutely must have the correct, OEM fuel filter. There have so many cases of juddering, trouble starting and so on with non-OEM fuel filters. Get an OEM filter in there to rule out at least. As reliable as your mechanic may be, he's obviously never worked with i-CDTIs before.
Also, should have got the codes from the car, this would have been extremely helpful. Clearing codes is only plastering over cracks. They'll come back... Another case for getting your own OBD reader perhaps .
Ok, the car's fine when being thrashed, when everything operating at near max. Running a car flat out can actually mask certain issues faults and it isn't representative of daily driving conditions. Do some very gentle driving. The issue will most likely come back.
I'm willing to bet that driving through standing water is red herring in this case.
Also, should have got the codes from the car, this would have been extremely helpful. Clearing codes is only plastering over cracks. They'll come back... Another case for getting your own OBD reader perhaps
.Ok, the car's fine when being thrashed, when everything operating at near max. Running a car flat out can actually mask certain issues faults and it isn't representative of daily driving conditions. Do some very gentle driving. The issue will most likely come back.
I'm willing to bet that driving through standing water is red herring in this case.
Hi Jamie, I distinctly recall advising you to stick to genuine dealer parts for servicing especially the fuel filter.
Always best to supply the parts yourself and then let any decent mechanic fit it if you can't diy.
I'm sorry but your mechanic is talking out of his arse and you've been completely ripped off.
I feel quite upset about it actually, I've met you and know what you are like. He's taken advantage of your good nature.
You need to have that fuel filter changed for a genuine Honda item. It's almost certainly the reason for your intermittent issue.
Always best to supply the parts yourself and then let any decent mechanic fit it if you can't diy.
I'm sorry but your mechanic is talking out of his arse and you've been completely ripped off.
I feel quite upset about it actually, I've met you and know what you are like. He's taken advantage of your good nature.
You need to have that fuel filter changed for a genuine Honda item. It's almost certainly the reason for your intermittent issue.
Yep you did indeed Fahad. My fault for not telling the guy that the Accord needed the genuine fuel filter (although I did remember to request the 0w30 oil)
I am now going to buy the above Honda fuel filter, a OBD reader, and if the engine cuts out again I'll take it to Ray with the Honda fuel filter to be changed. If the engine doesn't cut out again then I will just keep the fuel filter for when it next needs servicing.
I am now going to buy the above Honda fuel filter, a OBD reader, and if the engine cuts out again I'll take it to Ray with the Honda fuel filter to be changed. If the engine doesn't cut out again then I will just keep the fuel filter for when it next needs servicing.
F6HAD said:
Stevearcade said:In my time on this forum, I can say without any doubt the i-CDTI absolutely must have the correct, OEM fuel filter. There have so many cases of juddering, trouble starting and so on with non-OEM fuel filters. Get an OEM filter in there to rule out at least. As reliable as your mechanic may be, he's obviously never worked with i-CDTIs before.
Also, should have got the codes from the car, this would have been extremely helpful. Clearing codes is only plastering over cracks. They'll come back... Another case for getting your own OBD reader perhaps
Ok, the car's fine when being thrashed, when everything operating at near max. Running a car flat out can actually mask certain issues faults and it isn't representative of daily driving conditions. Do some very gentle driving. The issue will most likely come back.
I'm willing to bet that driving through standing water is red herring in this case.
saj said:
Forgot to ask himCliffordski said:
I thought the deep water was a coincidence too. Naturally my folks are telling me "I told you so" and pinning the problem on the floods lolJon_G said:
edgeoftime
Members
Am i invisible and deaf and dumb on here?? or not qualified to remark read my thread and save yourself a bomb.