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Cleaning inlet maniford

invent

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Location
Lincolnshire
Car
Honda Accord
I've tried to clean inlet maniford aswell. Removed butterfly off to clean it better.
After the cleaning then everything was in its places, started the car, and the engine started to shake, my acceleration pedal wont work at all, and white smoke from the back.

Whats happened ?
help please.
 
Yay! Did you plug everything back? Got any lights on the dashboard? I did it twice on mine and didnt have any problems with it. What you mean by accelerator doesnt work? When you press it does the revs go up at all? Dan
 
Yay! Did you plug everything back? Got any lights on the dashboard? I did it twice on mine and didnt have any problems with it. What you mean by accelerator doesnt work? When you press it does the revs go up at all? Dan

No lights on the dashboard, also no errors. If i'm pushing the acceleration pedal slowly then revs goes up to the max, and as i said alot white smoke comes from the back. But if i press the pedal quickly, nothing happens.. :(
 
TBO Eric i wouldn't have removed the butterfly they can break very easy.I would put my money that its been put back in wrong or damaged.
 
I don't really know much about this stuff, but it sounds to me like something not right with the throttle body. Is it sticking or something. Might be worth just taking it all apart and putting it all back together again.
 
I don't really know much about this stuff, but it sounds to me like something not right with the throttle body. Is it sticking or something. Might be worth just taking it all apart and putting it all back together again.


I've tried to put all back a few times, but last time was the best, because one of the bolts just broke in two parts, and now i can't find where to buy it ;((

If i found it, then ill try again to put everything back.. ;(
 
I've tried to put all back a few times, but last time was the best, because one of the bolts just broke in two parts, and now i can't find where to buy it ;((

If i found it, then ill try again to put everything back.. ;(
Eric what bolt has snapped is it one of the four that holds the valve to the body.
 
Eric what bolt has snapped is it one of the four that holds the valve to the body.

The longest one, you can see a hole for that bolt in this photo:
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/gathor/honda/Intake%20cleaning/3-Copy.jpg

Its on the left side
 
Ok, i have some more news here.

Ive bought a used inlet manifold from ebay, and started to change the sensors. Theres 3 of them.

First ive changed the pressure sensor. You can take a look at it in this photo: http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/gathor/honda/Intake%20cleaning/5-clean-Copy.jpg

Now my car engine seems like works better, the revs not jumping, but the acceleration still doesnt work. (With the old sensor, revs was jumping, and acceleration doesnt work aswell)
And also receiving two errors 108 and 98.

i cant understand what is happening with that car. Before inlet cleaning, everything was perfect. But now its just a disaster..
 
Like Brett said before, you shouldn't remove the butterfly, its a calibrated part.
If you've bought another manifold just swap the whole thing over.
 
Like Brett said before, you shouldn't remove the butterfly, its a calibrated part.
If you've bought another manifold just swap the whole thing over.

Already done that, swaped manifold to another, but then i started the car with all sensors from the used maniford,
ive received alot of errors. decided to change all the sensors back to my old ones.
When old sensors is in use, no errors came up, but engine works bad, revs jumping, acceleration dont work and etc.

Only one sensor which helps from jumping revs is pressure sensor so ive swaped it from used maniford.
But as i said two errors: 108 98, and acceleration pedal dead
 
P0108 = Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input - http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/P0108/Diagnostics/Honda/Default.aspx (lots of useful info and potential solutions in this link)

P0098 = Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High - http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/P0098/Diagnostics/Honda/Default.aspx

EDIT: a little bit more info here about the P0098 DTC - http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p0098.html

I'm thinking that you may have disturbed a multi-way connector somewhere on the wiring loom, probably under the bonnet... worth a check, as it might explain multiple problems!
 
ok ok, alot of things have done after my last message.
Now situation is a little better, because no error codes comes up, but only one thing is not working properly. Strange acceleration.
Uploaded a video into youtube, now you will see what s happening.
Pressing the acceleration pedal but the revs vibrates on 1k-2k. and then again normalises, strange huh ? :)
PS. My radiator have a hole on it, so ive ordered a new one and waiting for it. But i dont think that its fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qicopnllQI
 
ok ok, alot of things have done after my last message.
Now situation is a little better, because no error codes comes up, but only one thing is not working properly. Strange acceleration.
Uploaded a video into youtube, now you will see what s happening.
Pressing the acceleration pedal but the revs vibrates on 1k-2k. and then again normalises, strange huh ? :)
PS. My radiator have a hole on it, so ive ordered a new one and waiting for it. But i dont think that its fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qicopnllQI


What have you done since?

Changed the MAP sensor or checked for bent pins on the MAP sensor ?

Unfortunately cannot quite see what is wrong with the revs from that Video, although Is there a metalic ticking sound ?

How does the car drive, unresponsive, stuttering / lumpy?

Did you try cleaning the MAP sensor ?
 
The map sensor is a little bit dirty. I dont know how the bent pins have to look then its ok and then its not.
No its not a metal ticking sound, its a vibration then engine reaches 1,5 k of revs its vibrates alot, it seems like hes not getting something [fuel or etc]
The car is realy hard to drive, it looks like my acceleration wont work at all.
 
Is your EGR valve seated properly and is it jammed by any chance?
 
Is your EGR valve seated properly and is it jammed by any chance?

I dont know, about this. Because ive tried to unscrew 4 bolts which is on top of EGR, because i thought it comes off like this.
But i was wrong, so now i know how to take it off, so i'll try to do it again
 
I dont know, about this. Because ive tried to unscrew 4 bolts which is on top of EGR, because i thought it comes off like this.
But i was wrong, so now i know how to take it off, so i'll try to do it again


i think you may have a couple of problems.

1 the MAP sensor, it possible with all the trying a MAP sensor has been damaged, however on re-reading the thread it seems you have a replacement from the scrappers.

2 as Fahad has mentioned. What exactly happened when you unscrewed the 4 bolts at the top of the EGR ? it maybe misaligned and not closing properly, you need to check that the valve opens and closes fully and smoothly.
 
i think you may have a couple of problems.

1 the MAP sensor, it possible with all the trying a MAP sensor has been damaged, however on re-reading the thread it seems you have a replacement from the scrappers.

2 as Fahad has mentioned. What exactly happened when you unscrewed the 4 bolts at the top of the EGR ? it maybe misaligned and not closing properly, you need to check that the valve opens and closes fully and smoothly.

I've placed my old MAP sensor, not from used manifold. Its still dirty a little bit.
Today i tried to disconnect the EGR and start the engine. Everything was working perfectly, only one thing, the revs maximum was 2k.
When connected EGR back, still having the same problem, revs incresing slowly between 1-2k.

Also tried to take off the EGR out. But i don't know what i have to look in it.
 
Then I suspect it is EGR related somehow. With it disconnected, the ECU will throw the car into limp mode hence the max of 2k RPM but with it connected, the EGR is either jammed or slow operating hence the poor running..

If you can bring it over to me or to anyone with a Honda Diagnostic System, we can run an EGR functional test to see whether it's operating within threshold or not.
 
Not tried taking a pre-facelift EGR apart but looking at it I suspect those 4 bolts that you undid hold everything in alignment and either the spring has moved positions and restricting movement or causing uneven pressure on the valve and perhaps the valve has jammed ?

Need to take the EGR off and look what is happening or take it to a Honda specialist as Fahad has suggested and explain what has happened.

If you take it off, have a look at how it works, basically it is a valve that opens and closes to let exhaust gases through, generally a simple design, you need to somehow check that the valve opens and closes correctly and smoothly, no grabbing / scrapping or jamming.

Did you actually take the top off the EGR or literally just loosen the bolts?

Alternatively get a reconditioned one from a scrappers or ebay and try that
 
Thank you for help ! Today i found the f problem ;)
The metal stick which is in EGR was crooked a little bit.
Now every thing works perfect again !

At last.. ;) Thanx again
 
Another EGR problem fixed ;)

Maybe consider having it mapped out now if you are keeping the car.
 
How do you guys loosen the bolts off? I was under the bonnet the other day and thought i'd check out the condition of the egr and couldn't for the life of me get them off not without stripping the heads anyway.
 
How do you guys loosen the bolts off? I was under the bonnet the other day and thought i'd check out the condition of the egr and couldn't for the life of me get them off not without stripping the heads anyway.


I'd probably try some penetrating oil, also I'd warm up the engine a bit to get some heat into it, then with a good socket on (where possible) and a bar give them a tap first in the direction to undo, then in the direction of tightening, just one tap in each direction. Hopefully this will break the seal. Then a gentle tap on the bar in the direction to undo. You may need to do it a couple of times, with more emphasis on the undo taps.
 
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